blind_elk

Probable reason for replacing the water pump at 100k is that you need to remove it to do the cambelt at 100k.

He's after KNOCK sensors, not O2 sensors!

Unless you're planning a run down the front straight of Eastern Creek, why do you need to disable the speed limiter?

If the rules are still the same, then the head off a larger capacity engine will cause a REDUCTION in C/R when fitted to an engine of smaller capacity (presumably the combustion chambers are bigger on the bigger engine). Now, this may allow you to run more boost, but the engine will be far less tractable 'off-boost'. It was often the practice in the days of L-series engines to do things like fitting a L-16 head on a L-18 block to get a bit more compression. If you are after serious grunt, then trying to fit the RB20 head on the RB25 seems more the way to go. Or you could simply port / polish a RB20 head for your RB20 block so that it breaths better.

So, its already been lowered a bit? Skylines don't take kindly to massive lowering. I think 1.5 - 2 inches is the most it will tolerate. Any more, and the geometry gets thrown into chaos, and it handles worse than if you had not lowered it.

Race Radiators in Dandenong

Have fun. I'm guessing it would be under each exhaust manifold somewhere. Try asking Lindsay @ Z Workshop ([email protected]), I'm sure he's seen a few Z32s on the workshop floor.

32s take a H3C, guessing 33s take the same.

You can use copper plugs. The advantages of Platinum and Iridium plugs is that they last longer. I'm guessing the equivalent copper plug is a BCP6ES-11 (its the one recommended for the RB30) Have a look on the NGK website (www.ngk.com.au) for more info.

What's causing it? - squirting against rotaries and other cars! BEFORE it happens again, get it to a gearbox specialist.

Actually, just had a look up on the Shell Optimax site, and some di(khead has done a very bad sort of the data. For instance, the Shell Rushcutters Bay servo is in Sutton Forest - like sure!. And the Boggabilla Shell is in Yagoona - like sure! And Shell West Ryde is in Gilgandra - like sure! We can only hope that if there is a listing of a suburb / town, then there is Shell Optimax SOMEWHERE in that locality. I've let Shell know, and they're fixing it up. You can use their on-line locator (that seems to work correctly), and it will give you the locations, within a couple of hundred ks, of all the servos that have Optimax (or whatever grade / service you're looking for).

Shell (www.shell.com.au) has a downloadable spreadsheet that lists all their outlets and the grades of petrol they sell. Similarly, Mobil (www.mobil.com.au) and BP (www.bp.com.au) can tell you where the various grades of petrol are available. I'm going to Brisbane at Easter (via Newell Hwy), and have found that I can get Optimax at enough places for it not to be a worry. My worry is that I normally use Synergy 8000 (I have a MobilCard attached to the car's lease), but Mobil don't sell S8000 west of the Great Divide, and not in Qld, but they do sell PULP at enough places, which will have to do. And I'm only cruzin' up there anyway. (I'll have to buy some Optimax or BP Ultimate in Brissie before the run around Willowbank.)

Its pin 29 on the ECU

One more thing arose out of my trip north of the border - WHO'S BRILLIANT IDEA WAS IT TO MAKE THE SECTION OF FREEWAY BETWEEN BROOKLYN AND MT WHITE A 90 ZONE? and WHY? You can scream down the other side (from Syd to Brooklyn) at 110, but you can't do it from Mt White? What kind of twits do you guys have setting speed limits up there? (probably related to the twits in Vic who put double white lines on a straight piece of road, and then switch to a single broken line as you approach, and drive around, a blind curve)

Because they do. They seem to have NO regard for the speed limits. I was up that way this last weekend. There I am sitting on 62 - 63 kmh in a 60 zone, and if I haven't got an idiot up my exhaust pipe, I've got idiots whizzing past me at 70+. And I'm driving up the freeway to Newcastle, doing 100 - 115, and I 've got idiots - including P-platers - whizzing past me at 120+ So you guys have got nothing to complain about when you get done for speeding. Oh, and if anyone spots a blue Commonwhore rego XX-777 (possibly with yellow wool 'wind-tunnel testers' on the rear window) - would you mind telling him his indicators don't work. I followed this dude for quite a few ks down the Hume, and not once when changing lanes did his indicators light up. Not even when he turned off to Canberra.

I don't believe the gearbox is a problem (although it might be), the main (other) problem is that the sumps are different, and the 4WD sump - with all the 4WD stuff like diffs and half shafts - won't bolt up to the RB25 block.

Its 15 BTDC (for a manual). There is a loop of wire on the ignitor module (the little box at the back of the rocker covers). However, it seems to be unreliable. The simplest way is to remove #1 coilpack from its mounting location, and you can insert a spark lead between its terminal and the plug. Then do a 'normal' timing setting off the plug lead.

Speed Technology 03 9873 5400 EFI Hardware (basically same place) www.efihardware.com.au

I can only do it in 'hard-copy' ie fax the pages to you. Do you have a fax# (pm me if you do). (And it won't be until tomorrow.)

Despite I have one, I have no idea what the part# is. You shouldn't necessarily need to replace / upgrade the pressure reg. email the boys at Zoom ([email protected]) and ask them which issue had the article about installing the upgraded pump - but its not a simple pull-one-out-put-one-in upgrade though.

Don't forget that the cars were never intened for Oz, only Japan - and if you keep a car more than 5 years in Japan, then it starts costing a fortune just to register it. Have you tried any of the import wreckers (JMS or Toy Shop in Newcastle - www.japimports.com.au - EKW, SSS in Sydney)? To test them, I think you simply plug it into the loom (dismounted from cam), turn ign to ON, and slowly rotate the spindle and you listen carefully for the coils firing.

That's the Trailing Arm. It takes a fairly severe whack to break one of those. The problem you will have is separating everything from it, mainly the stub axle. Try any of the import wreckers for a complete (brakes and all) replacement unit. www.japimports.com.au in Newcastle www.japanesemotorsport.com.au in Adelaide spring to mind. There must be some up in Brissie as well.

If its anything like the old L-series seals, its just a rubber thingy. Should just pop off, even with the valve in place (springs removed, of course). You're sure the seals are still in place? You're not trying to remove part of the valve guide or something?

Have a chat to Tony at IdealSeat (Moorabbin / Melbourne) - 03 9555 7788

Opened it up yesterday - it seems to confirm my suspicions that its actually for a CA18, it has 4 different-size slots cut in the disc, suggesting that its telling the ECU where each of 4 cylinders is.