blind_elk

Any exhaust shop should be able to sell you 90 and 45 mandrel bend pipe in whatever diameter you require.

That's a passenger seat

What were you doing doing 130kmh down a backstreet?

Yeah, got them on my GTS4. They're OK, I really don't hammer them around town. One thing I've found is that the slots tend to fill with brake dust. I find they still overheat on the track (with the Bendix Ultimates pads). I got them from Autospeed shop. Don't remember exactly how much, but $220 each sounds familiar. edit: Just had a look on autospeed shop ( www.autospeed.com ), and ther'ye down to $195 each (that's for the R32 (DBA909) rotors)

It wasn't necessarily your tyres. After a long dry spell, a lot oil oil and grime builds up on the roads. Then it rains and, viola - instant skating rink.

Put a couple extra psi air in the front tyres.

Its likely it still has the 'ozone-unfriendly' type of gas. You need to get it reclaimed by a qualified / licenced operator. Then get it re-gassed with R134A (I think that's the current grade).

I think they vary from model to model, even within models (mine has just pooed itself, the magnetic clutch doesn't engage. Not pleasant having 40 deg hot air coming out the face vents). I have to get it out of the car to find the model / part number.

What if I have more than 1? (I have a R32 GTS4 and a R30 hatchback.)

Talk to Noel Sinclair - 0438 511 652 You can also get him, apparently, at [email protected] Also, I'm told, our VP Wayne ([email protected]) has one also, and is willing to offer any advice.

Don't go away, I'm trying to get contact details for our (NDSOC's) resident guru on the 'old' Skylines.

So, how much would it cost to do a drags session at Calder or Eastern Creek? For circuits, the entry fee is around $80 -$100 for a days outing - plus of course your own expenses of fuel, etc. This is mainly due to the massive increases in Liability insurance being forced upon us by idiots who aren't prepared to accept the consequences of their own stupidity. Having had a minor flirtation with the 1/4 mile, I can appreciate that there are different skills involved in the 2 disciplines. However, I think a good circuit car requires a lot more than a good 1/4 miler. After all, a 1/4 miler doesn't really need to turn corners, and it has minimal stopping requirements. All it really requires is outright HP. How skillful does that make it?

Sounds like it might be a worn thrust bearing.

The reason for spraying it before the compressor is that you can use boost pressure as the driving force. If you spray it after the compressor, then you need a pump capable of overcoming boost pressure - remember, fluids move from hi-pressure areas to lo-pressure areas.

Can't see the pic, but I'm guessing from your description of their location that they are the loom connectors for the G-sensors in the 4WD versions.

I need to disable the Climate Control, as a check for a problem I'm having at the moment. Anyone know where its located? Is it easy to get at? Thanks

Doc, Would at least like to talk to U about re-chipping my ECU, if that's OK. You'll see it runs rich-as (around 11) on full load.

Count me in - early, as I have to head off to Winton for a sprint Sunday

Why not settle for Third Party Property. This will cover you if you hit someone else, like a Rolls or Merc or Porsche, but it won't repair your car. While VicRoads may have said its OK for you to drive here (well, you do have a licence), Vic has a rule (its just not enforced) that drivers older than you (ie, on probationary licences) aren't permitted to drive certain 'high powered' cars. And I think there's a good reason for that - in general, you just don't have the experience to handle the car and the performance. (highlight a 17yo in Queensland - just got 4 months hard time for killing a guy. he'd had a licence for 5 weeks and lost control of what appears to be a Supra TT). Can I respectfully request that you get a much less powerful car until you get the hang of driving in Australian conditions (both roads and other idiot drivers).

Did they fit new speakers in the door? Sounds like they simply (accidentally) pulled the connector from the switch (I'm guessing the switch is on the door). But, yeah, suggest you get them to fix it.

The NICS engine (R31, red-top) has the variable runners. These are prone to failure (jam open), and make the engine even more gutless than it already is. Some of them can take the R32 head. The R32 has a better turbo, I think (BB, ceramic). 2k for a half cut dosen't sound too bad. Go with the R32 for overall better value. VL / R31 gearbox in the worst case to bolt up behind.

In the R32, the HICAS is hydraulic, and uses the same fluid as the P/S. More often than not, the problem is a slight loss of P/S fluid. Which would explain the loss of P/S at the same time as you lose the HICAS.

check ur pm

If its out of a 4-spot caliper, then its likely a DB1170. No idea of the manufacturer of your particular pad. Check the Bendix catalogue to confirm the part number. Probably under 'Skyline GT-R'.

Sure you replaced them with the correct wattage bulbs. I think the rapid blinking is caused by the system detecting the wrong voltage drop, which will vary according the the wattage of the globe. I can't see how the A/C fan would affect the indicator voltages. Otherwise you'd get different blink rates when the fan was on and when it was off.