blind_elk

Sounds like you got a dud one. Get the globe from Repco, or a reputable parts shop and try it out. I'm pretty certain that a brake / park globe is a brake / park globe. Otherwise you'll have to go to your local Nissan dealer.

Top up the power steering fluid.

Are they still available?

So, that means the pump moves up and down in the tank, depending on how much fuel is there.Get real, the pump will pick it up with an overflowing tank. That's why there are filters in the system, on the pump itself, and before the fuel rail. The R32, at least, has a sort of surge tank built around the fuel pump area to reduce the movement of fuel away from the pump pickup. Hammering it probably is not condusive to keeping the fuel near the pick on a lowish fuel level. And considering the tank is much wider than it is deep, a 1/4 tank is not a lot of fuel. Fuel surge will be most noticeable on RH turns, since the pump is located towards the RH side of the tank, and a RH turn will throw the fuel to the left, away from the pump.

Yes, block of wood under the diff. At the front, jack under the X-member. If from the side, DO NOT JACK ON THE CHASSIS RAIL (that's the one nearest the middle of the car), it will simply collapse under the weight.

The cops don't / won't enforce it.Stupid thing is, its OK for a L-Plater to be driving a HSV Senator, coz a fully licenced driver is 'technically' in charge of the vehicle. But who's in control?

That's about all you can do from a servicing point of view. Spark plugs can be done (after you pull the top of the engine apart, find you have the wrong spanner, put it all back together, drive up the shop to get the right one, then get home and pull it all apart again) If you're any good, you can do mechanical stuff (I've done a head gasket replacement), but it really is a pain to work on the engine. I reckon they should get the guy who designed the thing to come and do something like a head gasket, then they might get an appreciation for what they have created. There are enough reliable people out there (and there's a few cowboys) who can work on Skylines (do a search) that you don't have to take it to a Nissan dealer.

Good to hear you got your stuff back, AND that you know the id of the little blights on society that took them. Still can't figure out why you can't open the boot, though.

Sounds like a 'technicality' to me. I think reasonable grounds for fighting it. You're obviously Not Guilty of the charge (exceeding speed limit by 40).

Leewah, Are you guys on hols, coz I just tried (both numbers) and got your nice American answering service. Left a message anyways.

If it is the hose, and you don't put it back, then the turbo will simply continue to boost. Then be prepared to say goodbye to some part of the setup (turbo exhaust wheel, piston, etc)

No, you don't need to remove the cams. But you do need to remove the inlet plenum, coz there's a little bolt at the front of the head that's impossible to get out with the manifold in place. And remove the turbo from the exhaust manifold.

There's more to the water hoses than just top / bottom radiator hoses. There are about 15 in all - I know, I did a head gasket earlier in the year after one of the hoses under the manifold allowed the contents of the cooling system to venture to other parts of the engine bay. About $400 worth :eek: And you wouldn't believe the stuff you have to remove to get the head off. While you're about it, replace the welsh plugs with brass ones.

Why does everyone automatically think larger injectors are required at the limits of duty cycle. Why not increase the pressure behind the injector. Higher pressure will cause more fuel to be injected at a given duty cycle. I've read somewhere of someone who tried larger injectors (on a Falcon, I think), and found that the fuel delivery was pretty poor because of the required shorter duty cycle. The car actually lost power. Refitted the original injectors and upped the fuel pressure and picked up power.

That would really endear skyline owners to the general public, now, wouldn't it? Let's all instead come around to Pva_Glue's place at some ungodly hour and bounce our engines off the rev-limiter while Pva_Glue is trying to get some well-needed sleep.How about a bit of consideration for other people. She may have to get up early in the morning to go to work. If you have a timer, there should be no need to use it - just back off and drive off-turbo for the last k before you get home and you can turn the engine off immediately you're parked.

try www.jpnz.co.nz for a translated owner's manual

www.jpnz.co.nz The RB25DET manual is apparently due for release shortly after Xmas. Search over on www.skylinesdownunder.com in the forums section for confirmation

try www.raceplace.com.au in Melbourne

But you still need to remove the drive shaft or you will damage the transfer clutch.

There is nothing to stop you owning it. The law only says you can't drive it. But even then, the police won't be bothered enforcing the law. They reckon its too hard to do the calculations, despite they don't need to do any calculations because VicRoads has a list. They all seem far more interested in collecting revenue from speeding fines than in protecting members of the public and promoting road safety. In these litigious times, I can see the day when the family of a P-Plater killed while driving one of these 'high-powered vehicles' will sue the police, government, Vicroads and anyone else for failure in their duty of care to enforce the law.

What a load of baloney! Leave the standard air box standard. Otherwise you are pulling hot air into the engine, and hot air in the intake leads to detonation. Even more so when you rip out the airbox and replace it with a pod filter. It gets only hot air then. What I did with mine was to remove the stupid little duct that feeds air from the front of the car to the airbox (it runs under the LH headlamp). Replace that with a piece of 3" flexible tube that drops down behind the headlight into the area just in front of the normal IC location. Let Subaru owners drill holes in their filters, but I don't want to ingest anything bigger than a bacterium into my engine.

I used to have one connected. It would drop to 0 in about an hour. My current pump (Bosch motorsport) drops immediately you turn the engine off, 'coz it doesn't have the non-return valve. Nothing wrong with it losing pressure. That's why the pump runs for about 5 seconds when you switch ignition to ON, just to re-pressurise the fuel rails.

Yes, that squeal is generally indicative of a loose or slipping belt. Try tightening the belts back to their proper tension. I think there's a spray or something also that you can use to stop it.

No problem, you're welcome. At least one member seems intelligent to understand my nick.

As well as bolting the head on, you need to modify the cambelt idler / tensioner, and you need to modify the ignition system (RB25 runs coil packs). And you need a R33 ECU to run the coil packs. email the boys at Zoom! ([email protected]) and ask them which issue covered this conversion.