blind_elk

And does it happen on every start, or only cold starts or only hot starts. We're not mind readers, give us some info.

Won't make any difference to power. It only works on constant throttle, ie highway cruise.

They could have changed the drive gear for the speedo cable. Now your car is going to be travelling faster than the speedo indicates. Might not be a bad idea to get a mate to pace you at speeds by his speedo and compare what your speedo says.

Don't be such a cheap-ass. Your brakes could probably do with a bleed anyway.

This from an old thread (Backyard Race Fuel) initiated by rev210 on 27/8

some people don't deserve cars!

Since it only happens in 5th gear, then it seems logical that its something to do with 5th gear. If it was flywheel or input shaft, etc, then it would likely happen in any gear. My guess is a bearing on the 5th gear layshaft is on its way out.

Clean the AAC valve.

The buzzing noise at startup is the 4WD pump priming the 4WD system. If the pump keeps working, presumably the pressure sensor is kaput, because it is not getting the "alright, alright, enough pressure then" signal.

Pirtek

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Did they tune it on the dyno, or did they fit the one-size-fits-all chip? Sounds like they mucked up the acceleration enrichment.

I actually realised that after I posted. Because you can adjust the pressure, you can reduce as well as increase the base pressure. Therefore you could effectively lean off the mixtures a bit (on a dyno of course!) by reducing the base pressure.

I may be wrong here, but I understood that a rising rate reg did the opposite. A factory reg runs a 1:1 ratio between boost and fuel pressure, so for each psi of boost, the regulator increases the fuel pressure by 1 psi. A rising rate reg runs 1:1-and-a-bit boost:fuel pressure, so for each psi of boost, the regulator increases the fuel pressure by say 1.1 psi. At higher fuel pressures, more fuel is injected at a given injector duty cycle. This is to stop the A/F leaning off at high boost levels. The advantage of rising rate reg is that they can be adjusted to give a different-from-factory base fuel pressure, say 45 psi at idle instead of 40psi at idle. This is a cheaper way than fitting a set of higher capacity injectors.

What ARE you on, 2rismo?Body roll has nothing to do with forward / backward movement of the struts. During body roll, the struts either extend or compress, depending on which way the car is turning / rolling. The degree of roll is controlled by the stiffness of the spring and the stiffness of the swaybar. The presence (or absence) of a strut brace has no bearing on this, other than to reduce the twisting in the chassis because the different ends of the car are sprung differently.

It depends what the car is doing now, handling-wise. Rule of thumb is that a bigger / heavier swaybar on the front fill increase understeer, while a bigger / heavier swaybar on the rear will increase oversteer. It would really be worth your while to talk to a suspension expert about it all. I've put the HD R32 GT-R rear bar on my R32 GTS4. I haven't noticed a great deal of difference, but then I haven't really tested it. And I also have Bilsteins and Kings springs all round, so it would be really difficult to judge the effect of the bar.

Well, thats a load of BS. They won't even enforce the "high powered vehicles for P-platers" regulations because "its too hard to do the calculations". They aren't going to want to do the calcs on this one either. This belies the claim that they will introduce age-limited driver / car combinations. They are going to have to harrass every driver because they look a certain age. Yeah, sure!Frankly, the whole conversation wreaks of April 1.

Actually, it stiffens up the chassis. The sway bar, also called an anti-roll bar, is designed to resist the body roll of the car during cornering. It basically helps stop weight transferring from the inside wheel to the outside wheel.

Where did that come from?Anyway, NIZ30, if you're running the standard turbo (a T3 derivative), at 1.5 bar, then you've been extremely lucky. The ceramic wheels are notorious for parting company with the shaft when run at much above .9 bar, and are often then ingested backwards into the engine. And the ceramic material is a wonderful cylinder honer.

No, I don't believe they will. Unless you have a couple of years of club-level motorsport under your belt.Generally, you are expected to have done their basic car control course, then defensive driving course before you can tackle the hipo course. inark, have you considered the John Bowe course?

$890 :eek: Steve did mine for a couple hundred, I supplied the pipework (just plain mild steel mandrel bend exhaust pipe, 2" I seem to recall). For $890, I'd expect to get the IC as well.

I had mine (a Race Rads unit) fitted up at Speed Technology in Mitcham - talk to Steve on 9873 5400

There should be a loop of wire near the igniter. A conventional timing light will work off that (may not be accurate, but will at least give a signal). I know its a bastard, but you want the engine to start, don't you? You have to do stuff to track down where the problem is. You're absolutely sure the fuel lines are connected the right way round. Disconnect the return line and check if fuel comes out when the pump is working.

It means intermittently there's a problem with the 4WD system. In the boot, in the RH corner, behind the lining, there's a fluid reservoir. Check the fluid level is between the marks (check with engine running). Takes auto-trans fluid. Otherwise, there's a faulty earth contact (maybe, have fun finding that one!). But I would lay money on the fluid reservoir.

I've generally found that once a shock starts to pass its use-by date, the ride becomes quite harsh - when you hit even the smallest of bumps, you get a sharp jarring through the suspension. Checkout Whiteline for some new shocks.