blind_elk

The JPNZ Workshop Manual is around $150. My understanding is that copyright exists by virtue of the fact that the document exists. There does not need to be any explicit statement on the document to say it is copyright.

The alarm solenoid 'piggybacks' the normal central locking. Its simply held in place by a screw that locks onto the existing arm. Sometimes the screw works loose. Pull the trim off the driver's door and reset the alarm solenoid.

1. Check fuel pump is working (during cranking). Should be able to feel the fuel line pulsating during cranking. 2. Injector can be heard during cranking. 3. Ignition a) tacho needle flickers during cranking? B) hook up a timing light and check flashes during cranking. c) as I suggested previously, pull a coil pack and insert a plug, check if it actually sparks. After that, FIIK.

I'm not so sure the people who spent a lot of time and money transalating and printing the manual would appreciate that. Haven't we heard about copyright? You can afford a $20k car, surely you can afford $40 -$50 for a manual.

The Nissan Datsun Sports Owners Club will be holding its annual concourse at Southbank on Sunday Dec 1. The club has been able to secure from Nissan Australia, the gold 350Z that has been on display at various motor shows around Australia to have on display with members' cars. And beside it will be a 'new' fully restored original 240Z. All SAU members welcome to come a drool. Cars on display from approx 9am to 4pm.

Its a good idea to make sure you can get oil pressure before you actually start a new engine - don't want to run those nice new bearings without any lubrication, now, do we? OK, back to the problem at hand. Pull all the coil packs, stick a spark plug in each, and crank the engine - see if each plug is sparking. If it sparking, then its obviously somewhere else. Maybe pull all the injectors and check that they spray fuel while you crank the engine. Meanwhile, I'll check out the manual tonight and get a list of "My engine won't start" solutions.

The oil has possibly come from the rocker covers. Fitting an oil/air separator can solve this (have a search at www.autospeed.com, they have a couple of articles). The exhaust studs break because of differential expansion in the manifold. You will probably have to remove the turbo and manifold to fix. So while the turbo is out, may as well have it modded. I had a T3/T4 hybrid built - about $1700 from memory (in Melb tho, probably dearer in Syd)

Once again (and seeing as you're in Templestowe, he'll be relatively handy), Steve Newing at Speed Technology 9873 5400, www.efihardware.com. He's in Mitcham.

Its not a difference between good (competent) and bad (incompetent). It seems to be more of a difference between good (sensible) and bad (fn di(khead) that we're dealing with here.

AAC = Auxilliary Air Control (don't people read posts around here? I've lost count of the number of times I've had to explain that). Its at the back of the plenum chamber. Disconnect the orange plug to see if the idle stabilises. You need to run a lower heat range number. I run a heat range 6. I think you may need to go to a heat range 5. Go to www.ngk.com.au - it has a FAQ about plugs and there is a question specifically about the heat range.

You haven't disconnected the CAS? Igniter pack is connected OK? Igniter pack has an earth - its connected? Cams are in the right position?, particulary the exhaust, since it controls the positioning of the CAS. Take the CAS out (keep it connected to the loom), take note of its position so you can put it back in the same spot. Put the key to "ON", slowly spin the CAS shaft (anti-clockwise) - you should be able to hear the coils firing. Crank the engine - you should be able to hear the injectors firing. Use a BIG screwdriver as a stethoscope if necessary. Maybe you can run a diagnostic from the ECU - presuming you are running factory ECU? BTW, did you spin the engine over and get oil pressure b4 you tried to actually start it?

"Hunting" could be the early signs of the AAC valve starting to play up. Just needs a clean. The "start" problem - I was reading last night that too-cold a plug can cause cold-start problems.

That doesn't seem to stop the majority of tossers out there who have them on their cars.

Dumb question, but didn't the R31s have a live rear axle? How does HICAS work on a live rear axle?

Sure you don't have the spot / fog lamps on? That would be a reason I might flash you.

They still have to be calibrated against something, same as scales are calibrated against known weights. If the calibration 'standard' is wrong, then the dyno is wrong. Also, depends on the ramping they use to release the load, and the gear its run in, temperature compensation, and other variables. Nismo_Freak, The 800hp would have to be flywheel HP. kw -> hp is a constant. so it puts out 440 rwkW and it puts out 600 rwHP, because the conversion factor is constant. (There are some dynos claiming to be able to calculate drive-train losses).

If the fuel pump runs all night. then the fuel pressure shouldn't drop. But it doesn't, so the pressure drops. Really got nothing to do with high school chemistry. You lose pressure because the fuel leaks back past the non-return valve in the pump. I have found it normally takes less than an hour for the pressure to drop to nothing. That's why the ECU runs the pump for about 5 secs before you start - to get fuel pressure back into the lines. The fuel is always in liquid form. The car won't run on fuel vapour. (Except LPG, before any smarty pants attack me). If you were old enough to have owned a car with carbies, then you'd know that to be the case.

I'm not talking about 1st time offenders, I'm talking habitual / repeat DUIs - like that the sphincter of the universe you've got over there in the West (ACA the other night). Despite being a repeat DUI, he still has his car. He just doesn't have a licence. Suspending their licence doesn't stop them driving, and it doesn't stop them driving drunk. LOCK THE BASTARDS AWAY (IMHO) so they can't continue to not learn the lesson we are trying to teach them. Or at least confiscate his car so he can't drive it for a while.

Well, its been stated elsewhere, habitual drink drivers pose a far greater threat to society, yet there has been absolutely no effort to apply the same level of punishment to these dregs of society. These bozos simply walk away with a slap on the wrist. They get their licence suspended - again! (how can you suspend a licence that's already on suspension?). But they continue to offend, and no-one does a cracker to stop them.

You will destroy the O2 sensor and the cat. And then the EPA won't like you and will ask for mucho dollare.

BIG chunk of #1 piston - down to the ring land - parted company with the rest of the piston, and played pinball inside the combustion chamber. Also broke the top ring and bent an end of it upwards. Amazingly, not outwards, because bore is totally unmarked. I suspect a dyno run had it lean out and detonate at the top end (fuel pump incapacity), but no proof. Had a mild build - T3/T4 hybrid, FMIC, only about 115 awkW.

I believe the light comes on when there's about 12 litres of fuel left.

Good question. The AFM relies on the air coming into the engine to cool a heated wire. The air in the IC piping is, in general, going to be HOTTER than the air coming into the Air Box / Pod. If the air is hotter, it won't cool the AFM sensor as much. Therefore the ECU thinks there is LESS air than there really is. So, it reduces the fuel. ping, ping, ping. BANG! Is this the right reasoning as to why Mr Nissan didn't mount the AFM in the IC piping?

Mega,The reservoir in the boot is, I'm pretty certain, only there on AWD models (GT-R. GTS4), and its for the ATTESSA 4WD system.

I don't think there's any such thing as a cheap shock for a R33. Standard shocks are probably only available from Nissan, and we all know their similarity to wounded bulls. You could try a wrecker, but you take a chance that the shocks are just as bad as what you have now. Try talking with Rick at Traction Tyres - 9764 2811, but I suspect you are only going to be able to get after-market units that cost money.