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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. Try getting the core overhauled and cleaned out properly so that there is good heat transfer between the water and the cores. Usually the standard fan is very efficient at drawing air through the radiator.
  2. Damn, bloody disguise let me down again.
  3. I'm looking at doing some sort of upgrade on my R30 hatch. ATM, it has a single-pot floating caliper over a ventilated disk. I notice from the DBA catalogue that the 280ZX has a similar size disk. But it has a 'centre hole' diameter, whereas the R30 is a 'hub type'. Are these 2 compatible ie can I fit the ZX disk on the R30? Could I just fit the ZX caliper (if its a 2-pot type)? (I can probably get the disks and calipers from a wrecker)
  4. I'm sure there are members who would be willing to teach you - I, for 1, would be.
  5. I think what you're suffering is 'bump steer'. When the wheel moves through its arc of travel, the toe changes because of the geometry of the front suspension. It can be fixed, but it can be expensive. Depends what you're prepared to tolerate.
  6. Why not ask the RTA?
  7. Not Dodgy Bros, but part of a national chain of radiator repairers.
  8. I've put a Davies-Craig DCSL14 on mine. On the track, the engine does get quite hot, but I suspect that's the result of some dude at a radiator shop NOT pulling the radiator apart and checking it, like I requested after I blew a head gasket (sod charged me $40 to paint the fn thing with black paint:mad: ). I'll be getting it checked out properly in the next week or 2 - I'll let you know how it changes things.
  9. Ever thought that the old spring / shocker was worn out and could not properly support the weight of the car. So it was lower than factory to begin with. That's why it doesn't appear to have lowered too far. Anyway, its been recommended many times in the past not to lower Skylines more than about 1" - 1.5", otherwise it totally stuffs the steering geometry.
  10. 36 sounds a bit much, but it depends on the tyre. I was taught to run 2psi higher in the front. It holds the tyre firmer, and reduces understeer. Silver-Arrowz, you really should be RAISING the tyre pressure for the track, but check the pressures HOT. Anything up to around 45psi. Just depends on how the car feels, and what tyres are fitted.
  11. probably not appropriate to be taking it out to the red line, but I always drive an auto like a manual. maybe stretch it out to 4k then shift to the next highest gear. change down a gear (or 2) coming into a corner. I like to be in charge of the power delivery.
  12. Its really about the products of the combustion process. Ideally, when you burn gasoline - which is basically carbon and hydrogen - you should get CO2 and Water as the products. However, if you burn it in the presence of Nitrogen (which is 80% of air), then you get oxides of nitrogen (NOx) which is ultimately responsible for smog. And the spark that ignites the air/fuel mixture can cause the oxygen to convert to ozone. Other chemical, rather than combustion, reactions occur, producing nasties like benzene. If the fuel mixture is too rich (not enough oxygen) then you get CO instead of CO2. Then you add in impurities in the gasoline like sulphur compounds, which undergo changes to produce oxides of sulphur (SOx), which can dissolve in water to produce sulphuric acid ("acid rain"). The catalytic converter is primarily there to chemically alter the NOx and SOx compounds. So you see, its a lot more complicated than simply controlling the amount of unburnt fuel coming out the exhaust pipe.
  13. The harshness of the ride you describe sounds a bit like mine - turned out it was shot shocks. I went perhaps a bit overboard and got Bilsteins - they're for the R32 GT-R - but they were actually slightly cheaper than Koni. They are firm, but not harsh like you have ATM. Then just the last couple weeks, I got some King springs all round and the Whiteline GT-R rear bar ($537 all up). So all up, I've got about $1500 of suspension. Now I'm not sure if they make a Bilstein for the 33 GTSt, but I would recommend that you not skimp on the suspension - get quality stuff. The movement you describe would suggest worn bushes - you should replace them anyways with the urethane type. Talk to Quadrant (9769 9666) about Bilsteins, or TopPerformance about Koni. Or you could talk to Rick @ Traction Tyres (9764 2811) about your general suspension requirements.
  14. Yes, its 'Exhaust Gas Sensor'. On the RB20DET, its pin 29 (the 'rear' one is from the RB26DETT ECU)
  15. Its just gone up to $55 (up from $50), and there's a once-off $10 joining fee. I think you'll be able to download an application at www.ndsoc.com.au For that, you get a magazine every month, and access to another source of technical knowledge. On top of that is a $89 CAMS L2S licence, which you would need even if SAV affiliated with CAMS. We mainly do 'speed events' (sprints / hillclimbs) with the MSCA (Marque Sports Car Association), in fact we have a day coming up at Calder on Nov 10 (1/4 drags in the morning, sprint in the afternoon). Also, just last Saturday, we ran a driver training day at Sandown. And on Dec 1 (?) we are having a show-and-shine at Southbank. Around every Anzac Day, we go for a drive down the GOR to Apollo Bay, then up to Lavers Hill. And lots more stuff. And you'll be entitled to enter events being run by other clubs eg Phillip Island sprints run by PIARC.
  16. If you want to join a club so you can do CAMS stuff, then come on down to the Nissan Datsun Sports Owners Club. Its built primarily around the Z cars, but there are many newer members with more modern cars - heck, we even have a member with an Astra :lol: and a past president has a Audi RS4 pocket-rocket. Our next meeting is next Wednesday (Nov 6) at Whitehorse Inn, 5 Burwood Rd Hawthorn. Meetings (supposed to) start around 8:15, but many people come earlier (around 6:30 - 7) for dinner in the bistro. If you join now, you get next year as well (we have a calendar-year membership).
  17. When I got mine, it had 17x8 on the back, 17x7.5 on the front. I changed them for 17x7.5 all round, coz I was worried about clearance on full lock. But the tyre man is a wanker - 8s will certainly fit under the rear guards.
  18. check out the whiteline site - www.whiteline.com.au They had a R33 GTSt development car, they should have worked out the optimum settings.
  19. Let's see now. Firstly, I would confirm that the 87dB is within the limits for ANY car exhaust noise. Then, ask Subaru what the ex-factory level is. (Don't mention the fact that 3dB increase is a doubling of the sound, let them point that out.) The main defence for you would be the officer's ability to accuratley determine the 'loudness' of the exhaust. The human ear is not the most accurate measuring device, and as previously mentioned, 3dB change is double / half the sound level. As you have suggested, a noticeable amount is a subjective evaluation. In the absence of a standard MY99 WRX available to make a side-by-side comparison with, there is really no way that such a subjective test could be valid. Therefore, the issue of the infringement was invalid. Above all, when putting your case, be nice, so as not to put the police off-side.
  20. GTS4 is the same as a GTSt - the offset is +38 Don't know about the GT-R, other than they are wider wheels to begin with.
  21. Monash Council recycling station on Ferntree Gully Rd accepts old oil and batteries. Costs a couple $, but better for the environment.
  22. Massive 76rwkW @ 5100. Don't have torque, dyno reported 'tractive effort', which I think is different. Might produce a bit more if you opened up the turbo, eg RB20DET BB, which mine is getting.
  23. I had one in a 240Z. I'll see if I can dig out the dyno run tonight. But don't expect massive numbers, 80 or so RWkW from memory.
  24. Try Performance Exhaust . They're in Ringwood, New Street. 9870 4977
  25. inark, get a street directory - Dingley is almost the other side of the world You want suburbs like Burwood, Box Hill, Blackburn, Nunawading, Mitcham. Maybe Mt Waverley and Glen Waverley. They're all going to be similar rentals, I think. Not sure on theft risks though (is there such a suburb as a 'low theft risk'?) I just got the renewal papers for my R30 - $478 if I recall :eek:, well its more than last year, and I think its all in TAC fee (no such thing as NCB there).
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