blind_elk

I run mine on Synergy 8000, mainly because I have a Mobil card, but I've found it better than Optimax. A friend has a R34 GT-R (the 'Weekend Racer' from Autospeed) - Optimax used to leave a stain across the back of the car, switched to Mobil, no more stain.

check some out at www.efihardware.com

The NICS engine has variable inlet runners, the ECCS doesn't. But I'm not sure if its controlled by the ECU. Check out the latest HPI - there's an article on the NICS engine in there.

AFAIK, its a bit Model T Ford when it comes to GTS headlamps - you can have any wattage you like, as long as its 55W. (Driving lamps (high beam) will take any wattage - I'm running 100's)

Speed Technology in Mitcham, 9873 5400. Not specifically Skyline, but knows his stuff. Steve runs a Stanza Coupe Sports Sedan, with a CA18 in the passenger seat. Also had some input into Zedzilla (GT-R-powered 240Z featured a couple of times in Zoom). www.efihardware.com

I'm running 17/7.5, +38 offset, with 235/45 rubber. The main problem I wanted to avoid was catching the tyres on the inner guard at full lock, which is what prevented me trying 8s. You be the judge whether 9s will fit.

I have a hatchback version. I'm setting it up to take the L20ET that I had in my dear departed 240Z. The L20ET now has a modified RB20DET turbo on it. You can also fit the RB20, just need to change the X-member for the R31 one. I'm also planning on 15" rims, and some decent suspension (Pedders have stuff for them).

Also, do you know for certain that its nice and clean and dry around the spark plugs / coils. Bit of moisture hanging around when its cold could be shorting the spark to earth against the head.

Steve at Speed Technology in Mitcham 9873 5400

There's nothing to be gained performance-wise, other than you won't run out of fuel on a hard corner with a low fuel load. Checkout www.efihardware.com If you're already running a (factory) EFI car, then you shouldn't need one (I'm guessing your nic says you have a R34 GTt)

What in? I've heard them described as a 'de-aeration device'. Basically, they provide a constant head of fuel to the EFI pump, so that, even on a near empty tank during hard cornering, you will always have fuel available for the EFI pump. In-tank pumps have a sort of box surrounding the pump pick point. In an external setup, you have a low-pressure pump which keeps the tank supplied with fuel from the fuel tank, and also excess fuel from the rail returns to the surge tank. Any 'overflow' returns to the fuel tank. Most factory EFI cars already have them installed somewhere.

Does the engine actually turn over, or does the solenoid just click-click-click? If it does, install a relay - use the 'start' trigger wire to switch the relay, and get the relay to feed battery power to the solenoid. (you could test this by feeding power straight to the 'start' terminal on the starter motor)As for aligning your spark plugs, that is really getting serious to get the last 1/10 of a kW. And really, it can only be done with the head off, because you are trying to line the plug electrodes up so that they send the spark into the middle of the combustion chamber. Just bung in the new plugs (I'm using NGK PFR6B-11 (platinum), gapped to 1 mm), and NGK recommend 20 ft-lb tension (and that's not a lot of tension) in a cold engine.

for the brake piston, try releasing the bleed nipple to relieve the pressure. A big screwdriver or similar is usually able to force the piston(s) back - do one side at a time, then fit new pad, because pushing the opposite piston back (in) will simply push the (now) opposite piston back out. For the bolt, your local mechanic should be able to extract it with an 'e-z-out'.

Neither will the cops. Hell, they even let L-platers drive around in HSV Senators (coz there is 'technically' a fully licenced driver in charge - but not in control - of the vehicle). Its absolute BS, if it doesn't raise money, its not good for road safety.

Mine is a bit narrower than it could be, coz we thought the A/C condensor bottle (by driver's side of radiator) was going to interfere. Its about 60 - 70 mm thick, and half the height is behind the bumper bar (the steel one).

There's 3 types of people in the world, those who can count, and those who can't Got to agree about Manson's, and also Traction Tyres

Ditto.Got one built that returns along the underside, so minimal stuffing around to hook into the plumbing. From memory, $700, then couple hundred to have it fitted. ('Eric' gets all his ICs done there).

The fibregalss lower extension on my bumper had basically broken in the middle, and also had several cracks from nosing into gutters. I had it repaired by a mob that primarily builds fibreglass boats - coat of paint and it looks good as new.

The boost limit is governed more by the exhaust wheel than by any mods. If you still have the ceramic type exhaust wheels in the turbos, then there isn't a lot of room to move as far as more boost goes. When over-boosted for too long, the ceramic wheels have a tendency to part company with the shaft, and either end up being spat out the exhaust, or ingested back into the engine (and the ceramic is a wonderful cylinder honing material :eek1: )

It doesn't have to be 'feet' being removed, it could be a matter of centimetres. It could be that the mounts aren't isolating the exhaust from the chassis. Maybe a join isn't tight and is allowing the vibration to propagate. I'm only suggesting this because a mate with a GT-R had a similar problem and it turned out to be the overall length of the exhaust that was causing the problem. Had it shortened a bee's dick, and the drone went away.

Have someone look into the length of the piping. Its possible its setting up some sort of harmonic at normal road speeds. It may need shortening a bit to shift the frequency of the harmonic.

Likely the same - I got one for my RB20 from the local Holden dealer - a VL Turbo one, came in a very nice Nissan box.

Clean the Auxiliary Air Control (AAC) valve, located on the very back of the plenum chamber.

I'm not aware of any daignostics for the ABS. Its possible a sensor has died. Also, check the electrical connectors adjacent to the ABS unit, they might have a corroded connector or something.

While you're about it, might not hurt to remove the AAC (Auxilliary Air Control) valve (that's what its called) and give it a bit of a cleanout - Carb-B-Clean works well. Unplug the electrical connector. Remove hose. undo 4 10mm head bolts. Off it comes. Undo 4(?) screws, carefully pull apart. Clean all the galleries, and sliding bits. Install is the reverse of removal. (Bit of silicone sealant on the gasket surfaces where it mounts to the manifold.)