blind_elk

If the air flow meter is faulty, engine is limited to 2500rpm. I think you will find that in a stock engine, the plugs should be BKR5EIX-11.

Last Thursday morning, driving Western Ring Road n/bound (Melbourne), was being hassled by this maniac in a Kenworth. Flashing lights, sounding horn, sitting a car length off my rear bumper. I was moving with the traffic, not holding him up. Impossible for either of us to be going any faster. I tried to suggest to him that he was travelling too close, using the "tap brakes" method, and at one stage I gave a hand gesture to him that I didn't appreciate his attitude. He finally moves left, and I figure he's going to overtake me and cut in front. But there's no way he could possibly thread a semi between me in my lane and the big van in the other lane. That clearly didn't stop him, and to his credit he did use the indicators, but he simply moved past me and changed lanes. Brakes, move right, just avoid the trailer's bogie, then I realise there's another trailer - he's driving a fu(ken B-double. MORE brakes, MORE veer right, and I can clearly see the markings on the concrete barriers! After recovering from my heart attack, and changing my underwear, I was able to sit on his tail, below speed limit until the traffic thinned a bit, at which point I had to do 90 to keep up with him (it's an 80 roadwork limit all the way along this stretch). Finally passed him on a slight rise, and noted all the contact info on the side of the truck / trailers. When I got to my destination, I contacted the company and asked for the Manager. Ended up being contacted by the transport manager, and expressed my concern at his antics, and suggested that this idiot is going to kill someone if they don't get him off the road. He said he would talk to the driver (big deal!). Offered me the guy's name / phone, but perhaps stupidly I declined. I figured I wasn't likely to be able to be civil to him, and I figured he wasn't likely to want to be civil to me - those types don't know the meaning of civil. On my way home that evening, I also called into my local police station to report the incident. Doubt they'll do anything - police attitude to "dob in a [insert class of idiot / deviant here] " is "didn't see it, never happened, don't want to know", despite Ive got truck make, rego, company name, phone numbers. If it didn't happen, why have I collected all this info, and why am I wasting my time reporting it? I've also written to the company's manager about the incident. And I've "Liked" them on Facebook - if I don't get a suitable reply, I'll be posting this incident on their facebook page.

Done! Was thrilled to see in Q14 about heavy vehicles and tailgating. Had such a situation today. Long story short, nearly got cleaned up by a B-double on Ring Road n/bound by some a$$hole who wanted to go faster (couldn't because of traffic) so he pulled left, passed me, and tried to thread the rig through a gap that wasn't big enough for a semi, let alone a B (he was courteous enough to use the indicators, though!). Wasn't until the trailer bogie cleared me that I realised there was another trailer coming past, and those concrete barriers are a really nice shade of grey! BTW, all those statistics they are on about, we need to remember: "There are lies, there are damn lies, and there are statistics"

Drove my XF sedan through a wet roundabout the other day, checked the GPS @ 40k, and the magnificent Bob Jane All-Rounders performed terrifically!

Why, oh why, does everyone automatically suspect the O2 sensor for every problem in an RB engine? ECU ignores the O2 sensor until the engine is up to operating temp and in cruise (constant throttle) mode.

The 3 steps to a better performance car: 1. Make it stop Get the best brake setup you can, including slotted rotors, braided brake lines, high performance pads. 2. Make it handle Fit lowered (NOT super-low) springs, good quality shock absorbers (I reckon Bilsteins are about the best going), upgrade sway bars, urethane bushes. 3. Make it go N/A, you probably can't do much more than a set of extractors, maybe a slightly larger (3") exhaust system. If you get the first 2 right, you often don't need the third. And for goodness sake, learn to drive the damn thing. Nothing much beats a good quality advanced driving course. (Most driving schools only teach you how to get the licence, not how to actually drive) Lastly, don't drive it like a dick - you are simply asking for the attention of the police.

"psi" and "bar" are just 2 of the different ways of measuring pressure. There are things called "books" that contain information that would allow you to convert between the various units of pressure (and lots of other measures, for that matter). If they exist in books, then they exist on the internet. The gauges in your car should mention somewhere what the scale of the gauge is. I suspect if you look really closely at the boost gauge, it might say somewhere "x 1000 kg/cm2" or similar. The tacho probably has "x 1000" as the scale.

Depends how you treat it. My (R32) GTS4 gearbox is sitting behind a RB25DET (180@all 4), and it is still in pretty good nick.Clearly, if you want to do 7k sidesteps of the clutch, then it's unlikely the box will last long, particularly if you have a mega clamp pressure clutch setup.

Not how the pros do it, so can't say if it's a good idea or not!

They are ideally wired through a thermo switch, so they only come on when the engine gets over heated. The set temp can safely be as high as 90C, sometimes even higher. Movement of the car through the air is nearly always sufficient to maintain the correct operating temperature. Wiring the fans direct to battery so they are always on basically defeats the purpose of thermo fans, namely to remove some load (engine driven fan) from the engine. Having the electric fans permanently on simply shifts the load on the engine from the water pump / fan to the alternator. Yes. (as above) Ordinarily, ECUs switch things to earth, rather than supply +12V.

Appears to be the kettle has suddenly shat itself. Managed to locate a power point on the other RCD, and it popped as soon as I plugged in and turned on the kettle. Time for a gas stovetop kettle.

Got neither right now. But I'm good for either.And if he knows where I live ..........

Thanks blah. Just need someone who knows what they are doing to investigate and fix. Dezz knows where I live. He / his mate can give me a call - 0421 331 954

The story is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/394892-house-electrics-problem/page__pid__6508486__st__20#entry6508486 Any sparkies located in / near W Subs (Tarneit) who can investigate and fix this problem. TIA

Have just seen your pics of tyres - nothing wrong with the Falkens. I run them myself, albeit a 235/45x17 on a 32 GTS4 - and I have never had a problem with them in the wet. As I said, maybe they are TOO wide for the rim. And being an 18, there may not be enough compliance in the sidewall to allow good wet grip. Maybe it was just after a longish dry spell that you struck the roundabout in the wet. Long dry spells cause a buildup of oils and crap that takes quite a bit of rain to disperse. But then you'd expect every second car to be spinning out.

You would be surprised how fast you are actually going when you think you are "doing about 40km/h" Then get yourself along to a defensive driving course. They should cover wet weather driving, and will even wet the road down for you to show what can happen. No body roll is bad. The guys at Pedders should know better than to build a setup that doesn't permit lateral weight transfer.Is the suspension adjustable for ride height? If so, has the car been corner weighted? What tyre pressures are you running? And a wider tyre doesn't equate to more grip. Maybe the tyres you have aren't really designed for wet road traction.

Something in the boot may have switched the "valet mode" lever - could be why the remote release lever doesn't work.

I've heard RBs like LOTS of timing to start. My RB25 (Wolf ECU) is set to about 45btdc on start. Is the locating tab in the end of the exhaust cam intact? Otherwise your timing signal might be out, because the CAS isn't correctly located and aligned.

Which I asked in the first place!

Your OP suggested that it is a custom wiring job. You will need to have the injectors and coils removed from their fittings when you spin the CAS. They should activate in the firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4. If they don't fire in that order, re-wire the loom. (Stick the injectors in a bucket or similar to catch the petrol. You could also try and observe the spray pattern of each injector.) If, on the other hand, you have used a factory loom, then it should all connect up correctly. If the locating tab in the end of the exhaust cam is broken, then it is possible to put the CAS in in about 10 different ways.

OR a blocked radiator!!!!!

It's a stupid question, but hey, you wouldn't be the first - is the fuel connected to the rail correctly? Stick a pressure gauge in the inlet side of the rail. Are the coils and injectors firing in the correct order? Do you have compression? What ECU are you using? Have you got a good battery to start the engine with?

The L20ET uses a full EFI style distributor, with a built-in CAS. The cap is quite large, much larger than the standard R30 / L24E cap. I think you might find the cap from a 280ZX might be similar.

First up, you shouldn't be trying to adjust the throttle stop - it's epoxied for a reason. And you probably shouldn't be "completely cleaning" the throttle - usually causes havoc with idle in GT-Rs, could do the same in GTSTs. Back to the problem - have you checked the (ECU) engine temp sender? Have you checked that the throttle SWITCH is working correctly - measures 0 ohms at "throttle closed" across pins 1 / 2.

You shouldn't have any problems - the distance from the upper control arm to the axle is constant, so the clearance shouldn't vary as you raise / lower the car. Adjustable control arms merely move the arm in / out horizontally (adjust camber). You want to lower ANOTHER 5cm - how far is it lowered now? Because 5cm from stock is pretty much the limit.