blind_elk

Do you want an oil catch can or an oil-air separator? An oil catch can vents to atmosphere (and therefore is 'technically' illegal), while the separator basically inserts into the crankcase ventilation system. Both are there to prevent oil vapour getting into the induction stream (the oil vapour lowers the effective octane of the charge). If you want a catch can, I have one that's designed to sit behind the battery in a R32 GTSt.

I did that once. One problem - the screwdriver to undo the number plate was in the boot - which required the key behind number plate to open it!!!!!With regard to the alams and immobilisers - most immobilisers simply intercept the wire to the starter motor, they don't actually disable the car (all the lights on the panel light up, just the starter won't work. Solution (for manuals only) - kick start down a hill!!!! And the alarm should have some means to disable it without the module.

5 minute job. First, get diagnostics to confirm Error# 43 (TPS). Then, plug the fricken plug together properly! I'm sure I put it back together properly in the first place, but because the 'lock' is broken, I might have dislodged it when checking the Idle Air Correction (under the throttle body).

The reason taxi engines last so long is that they rarely cool down. Cold starts are the worst enemy of any engine, and is the time when most of the damage is done. It doesn't hurt to rev an engine every now and then. I put a L20ET into my 240Z in 1989, and never had to touch it (bar a couple of dead welsh plugs) since. And it got plenty of canings in its lifetime. Its being lined up to be transplanted into a R30 hatch, and it will have a RB20DET turbo hanging off the side, not that restrictive POS it come out of the factory with.

What about the general condition of the suspension? Shocks? Springs? Is the speed limiter still intact? Maybe the HICAS is cracking a wobbly without a speed signal. Check the balance of the wheels.

Thanks. I've had worse batteries than this, and its never done anything like this before. I've decided not to drive it until the problem is solved, but I had to swap cars around. How does 35 kg-m torque to the front wheels reversing out the drive :eek: I'm afraid its the clutch pack in the transfer case, but I'm told it would usually not provide anything to the front rather than lock up the front.

Driving to work today, noticed the 4WD torque-split gauge doing weird things. Taking off from traffic lights (very sedately), the tacho would reach 1000 rpm, and the gauge would jump to 35, and stay there until about 3000 rpm, then drop to 0. Also, reversing into a parking spot, the car's behaving like its got a locked diff (couldn't tell which end - F/R). So, what's going on?

Factory wheels are +38 offset.

Optimal for any engine is 14.7:1 When you crank in some boost, seems around 12.5:1 is the leanest you should go (factory systems seem to run down around 11:1 or richer)

Head torque: 3 kg-m 11 kg-m 0 kg-m (ie back right off) 3 kg-m 11 +/- 0.5 kg-m I got the flywheel ones, but they are different for auto / manual, and I have a horrible feeling I noted the auto ones - 14.5 - 15.5 kg-m. /edit/ no, thems the M/T ones, the A/T ones are 9.5 - 10.5 kg-m

You should be able to hear the fuel pump (not) working, so that makes it a bit of a no-brainer. Possibility is the ignitor module (back of the engine on the rocker cover) - they pack up when they get hot - although you'd expect it to cause trouble more often than you've reported.

Torqueing the head is a 5 stage process. I don't know about flywheel, I'll see if the JPNZ manual has the numbers.

I think the important thing to note here is that (4WD) Skylines are primarily RWD cars. The ATTESSA system only kicks in when the computer judges that its necessary. WRX and others, on the other hand, are primarily FWD, constantly feeding some drive to the rear wheels. So the 2 cars should handle differently.

You should have got error 25 (Sunload Sensor). Word of caution, even in shade on a bright sunnny day you can get error 25.

Check this out: http://www.autospeed.com/A_0060/page1.html

Its taken (on a R34)

Spoke to Ben @ NGK, he advised that the plug should not affect the engine temp. So it seems I need to talk to the radiator man.BTW, I'm normally running PFR6B-11. NGK make a PFR6B, gapped to 0.7 - 0.8, and a PFR7B, gapped to 0.8(?).

I had one made, cost $700 from memory. And it uses most of the existing pipework, coz the outlet runs back across the car on the underside of the 'cooler.

Youngsters! To re-gap spark plugs 1. Buy feeler gauges. 2. Remove spark plugs. 3. use feeler gauges to determine gap between centre electrode and tip. If too big, GENTLY tap the tip towards the centre electrode until check reveals correct gap as per feeler gauges. If too small, use a feeler gauge to GENTLY lever the tip away from the centre electrode until check reveals correct gap as per feeler gauges. 4. Re-instal spark plugs One other possibility (unlikely) - check the plug onto the Crank Angle Sensor (the roundish grey thing on the front of the engine)

Try closing the spark gap a bit (down to 0.8). Just because the plug comes pre-gapped, it doesn't mean that the gap is suitable for the car.

I'm actually running '8' at the moment (I changed them for a track day, and found one of my '6' seemed to be damaged around the base of the ceramic). Now for the question - will running too cold in the plug cause the engine to run too hot?

They should have a listing for the (R32) GT-R, RB20DET runs the same plugs.

No you can't, because the coil connects onto the sparkplug by a little spring-loaded electrode (like the one in the centre of a distributor cap). No way you can connect a plug lead.I've since been told (but not confirmed for myself) that any timing light that has the connector that clips over the plug lead will work using the timing loop on the ignitor pack.

Yes, I've put a DC thermo fan (DCSL14) on mt GTS4. It is triggered by the A/C fan which in turn is triggered by the thermal switch in the bottom tank of the radiator. I find it turns on at not much above normal operating temp. On the track, I've found that the engine actually overheats quite significantly. This may be due to the FMIC blocking air to the radiator, rather than the fan situation. I suspect I am going to have to get a couple of extra cores fitted for summer. And because of space restrictions, the fan has to be mounted and operated as a 'draw-through' rather than the more efficient 'blow-through'. The power gains are apparently minimal.

You'll know if its got an atmo-venting BOV - they're the stupid things doing the pssshhh noise on gear changes. If the engine stalls from running to idle, check: 1. the idle speed is correct 2. AAC (Auxilliary Air Control) valve is functioning correctly. One check is to disconnect the plug, see if anything happens. 3. Air-fuel ratio. Probably a crook AFM (Air Flow Meter), but try disconnecting O2 sensor, see if that changes anything. 4. Ignition components.