blind_elk

2) Yes, but not BCF. 900g minimum weight, AS1841 - dry powder is the usual type. Must be mounted firmly in the car, ie not tied to the passenger seat with an occy strap. And within easy reach of the driver. 3) What kind of motorsport do you want to do? If you are doing CAMS stuff, 2S is the minimum requirement, entitles you to do normal club supersprint stuff. If you want to do races, then you need a 3C licence. Also, you need a secondary bonnet restraint system ie in addition to the manufacturer's lock. Bonnet pins are best, but if you don't want to drill holes in your bonnet, then some sort of belt through the bonnet frame and around the bumper / radiator support will suffice. Again, not an occy strap, it must be non-extensible.

remove the heat shield, then 4 bolts (2 each end), and the probe. basically there's no such animal, AFAIK. A 3" cat is a 'high flow 2 1/2" cat', if you get my drift. If you want a high flow 3", then get a 3 1/2" cat. Any decent Exhaust shop should be able to do it. Not wise they won't, until they stick a sniffer on it, which is highly unlikely, but not worth the risk of not having one.

Auto or Manual? In the Manual, there is a switch, similar to a brakelamp switch, on the clutch pedal box. Check that its got the plug connected properly.

Its possible the igniter module has pooped itself. Its located on the top of the engine, at the back, about 5 cm square. You could try a simple test - stick it in the freezer for a few minutes to get it really cold, then connect it back up and see if the car will start. Or borrow one from someone else and see if the car wil start and run.

Kim didn't offer up an apology for bagging the flaggies coz his useless brother couldn't keep it on the black stuff, did he?

When was that?

Almost, '83 hatch. I'm lining it up for a L20 Turbo. Engine will bolt straight in, and ECU is almost straight plug'n'pay. Beuatiful thing is the turbo flange is same as a RB20DET. Also, I'm told the R31 X-member is the same, for dropping a RB series in.

Thanks, I just need a shot that clearly shows where each colour starts / ends - I'm guessing a 3/4 overhead view would be suitable. email to [email protected]

Had a look on the weekend. The wire is yellow with a green trace. On the ECU, as it sits in the car, there is a block of 20 pins at the bottom of the loom plug. The pins on the RHS are numbered 41 - 50 (from top down), and the pins on the left are 51 - 60. Pin 53 is the 3rd one down on the LHS (side nearest outside of the car).

I recently purchased a kit of the R32 GT-R. I want to paint it in the Nissan Motorsport colours (Red / White / Blue, the colours b4 they became Winfield cars). Anyone have colour photos of the cars, or know where I can find them?

A small fine (1-2mm flat blade) screwdriver can often lever the centre pin out. Or you can drill out the centre (obviously requires a replacement then).

You can lever the centre screws out of those fittings, if you have a fine (1-2mm blade) screwdriver. Or simply drill them out and fit new ones.

Jack up the arse-end and check for: slop in the universal joints - driveshaft and halfshafts slop in the diff.

I just don't believe it :confused: INASNT, you obviously only have 2 driving styles - flat out and flatter out. FFS, have a bit of common sense, the space-saver spare is NOT a performance tyre, and the car should not be driven as such. When I had mine on once (on the front), the ABS and HICAS were both disabled (warning lights on), probably because the ABS picked up the difference in rotational speed between the spare and the normal tyre.

There are three screw thingys on the bar, between the headlights. There MAY be some on the underside as well. There are 2 under the side indicators (1 each side). There is a screw coming up from the rear top corners into the guard. I think that's all of them. Hope that's clear.

You might have trouble with the wheels rubbing in the front when near full lock. Mine came with 7.5" on the front and 8" on the back, so I'm guessing that clearance in the front is a problem.

Sounds a pretty good price, considering they have to pull the front of the engine apart to get at the belt. All the belts need to come off, the timing cover, crank pully, fan, water pump, the CAS, and then it all needs to be put back. And they probably need to remove the radiator.

Yep, what meggala said. They are VERY stiff, but not jarring. There are also Koni's available, from TopPerformance in vermont, but they were slightly more expensive than the Bilsteins. The Bilsteins cost just under 1G for 4 corners, I believe they are GMS Godzilla spec units.

Yep, fitted up a DC fan while I was doing the head gasket. I think it was the SL14 model, I got it from my local Autobarn, cost around $200. That's complete with a wiring loom, but not any thermal switching. I used the switch that triggers the little fan in front of the A/C radiator, on the LHS of the car. The DC fan's relay is triggered by picking up the 'power out' from the Nissan A/C fan's relay. It seems more than adequate at the moment, but summer may prove otherwise.

It had a run on the dyno immediately before they fitted up the PFC? Better midrange has to be more useful than topend. Hows the air/fuel on the 'after' run? I've seen them tuned to around 12.5 .

Wondering if it might not be a noisy lifter (RBs have hydraulic lifters, I think). Disappears because the oil pressure comes up to normal. Does it do it once the engine gets up to temp, say you stopped at the corner shop for something?

When does the noise occur? During cranking? After cranking? Instead of cranking? Other time?

And it wil be out in favour of the police :eek: ie, the car will be travelling 15% faster than indicated by the speedo.

235/45x17 Falken 326s. Just had some fitted @ approx $200 each. Had the previous set 2 years / 35000km, and they still had a bit of life left in them.

Well, to get it off, I read on the downunder forum to use a piece of fishing line to slice between the body and the visor (presuming its something like double-sided tape). Once you have it off, then maybe something like metho to soften and remove the adhesive on the bodywork.