blind_elk

HICAS computer? Right in front of the seat? That is to locate a floor mat. Should be a matching one in front of the passenger's seat too. No

Yes, the V-spec copy. UAS have a similar one (pictured on car) - it looks like a 2-piece one.

Thanks, meggala. They are the Veilside type - VERY aggressive, I'm not in need of that much attention edit: oops, that's the one at carmate, the ones at UAS are similar to viper's /edit The viper motorsport one still impresses me the most. Although it looks like they've removed (or at least cut out) the steel support bar behind it.

Go and get Zoom! #51, and go to page 60. Can't gaurantee it will solve your problem, but it shows you the progression of checks. I'm sure I read somewhere recently that the boost controller will often get a spike and throw the ECU into over-boost protection mode.

Who is UAS? (sorry to show my ignorance). Do you have a website / address?

Went thru the latest Zoom! and HPI. Found a nice one at www.viper-motorsport.com.au in Adelaide. $500. Anyone else know of others? I'd prefer the fairly plain type, don't particularly like the aggressive Veilside types.

The whole cable.I tried getting a new inner from the local instrument shop, but they are a sealed unit - only way to replace is with another cable.

Those retaining clips (that fit in the holes in the ends of the pins) would be really difficult to simply fall out. I'd have to bold and suggest someone didn't put them back in at some stage :eek:

Yep, sounds like its died. I got a replacement (GTR type, since I'm running a GTS4) from a wrecker - $110.

Isn't there a plate up on the firewall, near the brake booster, that has a build date on it, along with all the other stuff about the car?

Check if you can pull the tip of the speedo cable (that goes into the instrument cluster) out of the sheathing - that means its broken, and needs to be replaced. I broke mine once when putting the instruments back in. It work for a while, but eventually gave up.

The front bar on my GTS4 has the GT-R style lower extension. It has broken once, and now I can't seem to get it to stay attached to the rest of the car - double sided tape, captive screws. Anyone know where I can get a replacement - either just the extension or a whole bar.

Probably check meggala's site. At $500 for a translation of the workshop manual, I don't like your chances of a freebie. For the HICAS light, check the reservoir, which is behind a panel in the boot, beside RH tail lamp assembly. Check the fluid level with ignition ON. Top up with standard auto-trans fluid. Also, check for anywhere where things earth to the chassis. Nissans are notorious for needing pure voltage.

I'm going to show my age here, but he was a Cazaly (Roy, if I remember correctly)

As I was reading it, it sounded like a dirty connection onto the light. Make sure the plug terminals are clean and free of corrosion. Also, check for a bad earth.

BGT are now in Nunawading. I had a bad experience with them once, made me want to go out and buy a heap of WRX badges for my 240Z so I could get what I had asked for Also, once witnessed at least 4 different ppl taking a R33 for a 'test drive' after its dyno tune. Try Speed Technology in Mitcham (Steve 9873 5400). Steve has worked on Zedzilla (featured a couple of times in Zoom!).

How much fuel you got in the tank. I read somewhere recently that PULP only has short useable life, then starts to go 'off' (loses octane rating). Try some fresh fuel.

Many years ago, I had a 180B SSS, which ended up with a roll cage. I found out 6 months after 'renewing' the insurance (thru a broker) that it wasn't insured because no-one would insure it with the roll cage. Something else to consider.

Work Equip 17" (2x7.5", 2x8"), ex R32 GTSt, 5x114.3. Black powdercoat 5-spokes, polished rims. Fitted with 'just-RW' Falken 235/45 326s. (pics minus tyres available) $900

You need to send about $23 to the Federal DOT (www.dotrs.gov.au/land/vehiclestandards/adr/subscriptions.htm ), and they will send you a CD-ROM of the ADRs.

No its not. Its only defectable if the wheel and tyre combination varies from factory by more than 15mm.The reason behind the width bit is mainly the change in loading on wheel bearings.

The first number is the COLD viscosity, the second is the HOT viscosity. The oils have additives to change the viscosity with changing temperature. Its debatable how low you need the cold viscosity. a low number means that the oil will be circulated quickly from a cold startup. But a higher number (thicker when cold) is likely to hang around better, so not need the ability to quickly circulate when cold. I think the quick circulation factor usually wins out. A 5 is really the lowest you [b:adb267e0b1]need[/b:adb267e0b1] to go in Oz, unless you are up at Perisher or something (then you might need a -5). Probably what's more important is the API specification (like SG/CF or something like that) I think the latest is something like SJ/CF (anyone?), and indicates the level of protection that the oil gives. The 'no brand' oils (KMart, etc) are often only SG or SH API specs, so steer clear of them.