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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    Had switched to the "old" theme. With the new theme, it isn't a problem with the thread topic area, but the head of the page is still stuffed. Being overlain with my window tabs. How to I upload the PrtScr image? Using FF 11.0, on Linux. Don't see that it should matter, because it worked before the "upgrade". Had to take a photo:
  2. blind_elk
    It's all gone pear shaped. Using Firefox. At the top of the topic, I'm getting the window tabs being reporoduced, rather than the thread topic. In the SAU banner, I'm getting something else overlaying / interfering with the menu options. I tried doing a cut & paste to eshow what I mean, but it doesn't seem to want to work correctly (work the way I want it too). It's all crappy, AFIC.
  3. blind_elk
    This is the cradle that clamps the crank in place? Try 4.7-5.3 kg-m, in 2 or 3 stages tightening. Tightening order: 13 9 5 1 3 7 11 14 10 6 2 4 8 12
  4. blind_elk
    Didn't you read Moodles2's post? Tells you right there that the sensor turns on the A/C fan (in front of the A/C radiator) in overtemp situations. GTSBoy - the single spade temp sensor is for the gauge, the ECU reads off the 2-pin sensor.
  5. blind_elk
    That would usually be a wheel bearing. Try moving the wheel top to bottom - if you get the same sort of movement, then it will almost certainly be the wheel bearing. Might just need a bit of grease and a tighten up. Might be shot.
  6. blind_elk
    Best to get an alignment. No point in us speculating what might be right / wrong with your setup. Scrubbing the insides of tyres is usually a toe-out problem, but it could be camber, which could be bad setting or shot bushes.Get some numbers of how it is now. Also, try contacting the guys at Whiteline for some advice re alignment settings (they have, or used to have, some recommended numbers for the 32 GT-R).
  7. blind_elk
    Have you done anything recently, like new head unit? Fuses blowing immediately usually indicate a dead short in the wiring somewhere, ie a power wire has bared and is touching bodywork somewhere. Good luck finding that!
  8. blind_elk
    You can set it all correctly when you come to put it all back together. With the sump off, you can tell the #1 is roughly @ TDC.
  9. blind_elk
    If you are in Melbourne, then I can possibly help you out with a compressor from a Stagea RB25DET. Looking around $150.
  10. blind_elk
    Injector cleaner doesn't really clean dirty injectors. It will keep clean injectors clean, but can't remove the wax that builds up in the injector needles. You need to get them sonic cleaned.Octane boost is perfectly safe for O2 sensors.
  11. blind_elk
    Yes, the 2 sensors in the top radiator hose are for temperature - 2-pin = ECU, 1-pin = gauge. Simple way to test the sender/gauge, with ign @ ON, earth the wire to the sender - if the gauge goes full scale, then the gauge is working, sender more than likely is bung.
  12. blind_elk
    No!. All this is doing is blowing the exh side gasses straight back to the turbo intake, totally defeating the purpose of installing the catch can - more correctly "oil-air-separator".Leave the "U" hose connecting the 2 rocker covers. Disconnect the hose going from the exh cover down to the intake side of the turbo, and re-direct that to the catch can. Run the other fitting on the catch can back to the inlet side of the turbo. Simple.
  13. blind_elk
    How about making it stop?Three steps to improving a car: 1. Make it STOP 2. Make it HANDLE. 3. Now, make it GO FASTER.
  14. blind_elk
    Nissan dealers sometimes have parts available to replace worn out bits - bit of a stretch, but I wonder if they might have one?
  15. blind_elk
    What spring washers? The darkness you mistake for spring washers is simply shadow. And, yes, lock the locknuts out against the blue components.
  16. blind_elk
    Simple solution - mount the top, then you can use a big screwdriver or similar through the lower eye to twist the shock.
  17. blind_elk
    Which ignitor were you using originally? The ignitor doesn't determine the firing order, pin #1 fires coil #1, pin #2 fires coil #2, etc. The ecu controls the firing order.
  18. blind_elk
    Series 2 coils have the ignitor built in - doesn't require the separate ignitor.
  19. blind_elk
    Can probably help you there. Has a slight mark on the upper rear of the wing. Needs all the screw holes drilled into the "legs". $75. Call - 0421 331 954
  20. blind_elk
    Maybe the old clutch was able to slip a bit to allow "smooth" gear changes. New 6-puck won't slip enough to allow a smooth gear change.
  21. blind_elk
    You DO NOT want to be using a 15w oil. This is the viscosity behaviour at cold startup. You want a thin oil to get through all the oil galleries quickly, so you should be using a 5w or maybe 10w.The noise could be any number of things - sticking lifter, injector noise, piston slap, big ends.
  22. blind_elk
    Fuel pump primes when you switch to ON.
  23. blind_elk
    Gee, its a NISSAN seal in a NISSAN diff in a NISSAN car. I wonder if a NISSAN dealer might have some? (Replace both sides while you have the diff apart)
  24. blind_elk
    Does fitting a 6-cylinder engine into what is normally a 4-cylinder car involve anything that faintly resembles an adjustment to the tacho so that it now calculates for a 6-spark cycle instead of a 4-spark cycle?
  25. blind_elk
    Last place you want it. The Gibson Nissan Works GTRs had the HICAS removed because they found that if you suddenly backed off in a corner the HICAS became confused and could turn the car around.Don't understand what everyone has against HICAS - I've never had a problem with it. Maybe you guys just aren't up to driving a car with active steering.
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