blind_elk

I'm still running the RB20 box in my GTS4, after an upgrade to a RB25DET (up to 180kW at all 4). No sign of it giving way (has had a few track days as well, a trip around the great roads in Tas, and places like the Great Ocean Road). In my experience, Nissan's gearboxes are near indestructible. To lunch 4 of them is mind boggling.

About 3m sq, both have built-in robes. Which part of "Room For Rent Tarneit" didn't you get?

You obviously didn't look too hard. ngk.com.au comes back with a PFR6A-11 (standard for all GT-Rs) equivalent to BCPR6EIX-11.If you are running a few more ponies, then you probably need a 7 heat range, and maybe close the gap a bit (maybe 0.9).

Mine still work, but then they are older (1989 R32).

According the the ngk website, the recommend plug is a PFR5B-11B, but if he's running a bit extra boost, then a 6 would be ok. So, you're saying that a set of 6 brand new plugs all fail within a short space of time. Not 1 particular cylinder, but 6 cylinders fail? If everyone else doesn't have a problem, then there is surely something wrong with your friend's car. Sounds like it must be detonating and destroying the plug tips. I would suggest contacting NGK, show them the plugs and ask what is possibly happening.

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I don't think it really matters which box you use. My experience has been that Nissan makes near indestructible gearboxes. (Although I have heard of 1 person who managed to lunch 3 RB boxes in a matter of months - probably using a VHD multi-plate clutch, and sidestepping the clutch at 7000 rpm.) Since you are using a SR engine, it makes good sense to use a SR gearbox, IMHO.

Fuel pressure @ idle should be around 2.5 kg/cm2 (35.6 psi), @ idle with vacc removed 3.0 kg/cm2 (42.7 psi). Lean @ idle is not a problem. Lean @ no load is not really a problem. Lean @ boost is a definite no-no. ECU ignores O2 @ idle. What is a .28 spark gap (mm, thou)? Do you mean 28 thou (0.71mm)? Then you should open it out to around 35 thou (0.9mm). Do you have the correct heat range plugs (NGK 6s)? CTS - cold = 2.5kohm, hot = 0.3kohm. How have you set (programmed) the SAFC? dyno? Are the injectors clean and flowing correctly? Have you driven the car with the fuel pressure gauge attached?

"Dead" shocks can induce a harsh ride. I once had a Sigma (company car) that I fitted heavy springs / gas shocks to. It rode better than the "fleet" cars that had crapped out stock suspension components. Simply test for the shocks - "bounce" the corner of the car. The car should stop bouncing within 1 or 2 bounces. Looseness in the steering could be due to wear inside the steering rack, causing dynamic toe changes. Replace the shocks first - good ones, eg Bilstein, Koni. See what difference that makes. What size tyres do you have?

Then Tarneit is a bit out of the question.

You have fluid in the master cylinder? Also check for a broken pedal box.

As a general rule of thumb, for each 1" of wheel diameter you need to change 10 profile points. But then you are going wider as well, so you need to drop a few profile points again. My calcs suggests that the equivalent rolling diameter in a 15" is a 185/55 or a 205/50 (anyone care to confirm/deny?). A 205/45x15 is too low a profile compared with what you have now.

What size is the standard tyre for the car, or what size does it have now?

When was the last time the transmission was serviced?

Without the engine running, you will always be able to select gears, even without using the clutch. Simple answer is that the clutch isn't disengaging the engine from the gearbox. I suspect that the RB20 pressure plate isn't as tall as a RB25 plate, or the thrust bearing carrier is too short for the combo you have. Can you determine how much free play you have at the fork? You will probably have to remove the gearbox and do some measurements on the clutch assembly and the thrust bearing motion to determine what is (not) happening.

Can I make a suggestion - when testing a fuse with a meter, use ohms (resistance) across the blades of the fuse. That way you will always know whether the fuse is intact or blown.

How old is the battery? Skylines are notorious for misbehaving at the slightest whiff of a crook battery.

The "SCA car stands" are fine. Just position them under a suspension arm. Or you can position them under a cross-member. Then the car will be supported, wheels or no wheels.

Maybe the cold start valve isn't working. Presuming the RB20 - the cold start valve is the little torpedo-looking thing under the throttle body.

I have Maltech lines - ADR approved (the first to be approved, I believe).

Nothing particularly wrong with those numbers. They are within a reasonable range. DO NOT run a thicker oil - I have been told it will be like "driving with the handbrake on". Particularly, you do not want to run a 15 - this is the viscosity at startup, you want a thin oil so it gets through the engine quickly.

You have power to both wires because the injector is simply a part of the circuit. To open the injector, the ECU switches one of the pins on the injector to earth. That provides the current flow necessary to cause the injector solenoid to activate the injector needle. You probably won't be able to tell which wire is the one being switched to earth by the ECU. If you earth the incorrect one, you risk popping the fuse.

Spark wouldn't work if the CAS wasn't plugged in & working.Try connecting one side of the injector to earth, and apply 12V to the other side - you should get the injector to open. If it doesn't, then either the injector needle is gummed shut, or the injector is cactus.

How long since the engine actually started? It may be that the injectors are gummed up. While you have them out, get them sonic cleaned.

Best advice is go out and spend a few $$$ and get the workshop manual. That should cover all the questions you might have.