blind_elk

The tyre installer should be able to recommend the best pressure. FWIW, my local Bob Janes suggested I run 38psi my Falken ZE912s (235/45x17).

Really, how many kW does an alternator draw from the engine. Not many, I surmise. So I doubt you would ever notice the difference in performance with the alternator switched either way.

It's a RWC requirement that each wheel on the same axle is the same make / brand / size / tread design. So, front tyres must be the same as each other, and rear tyres must be the same as each other, but front and rear don't have to be the same as each other.

Well, when the engine shuts down, the key is still in the "run" position, and the lights are saying "no charge", "no oil pressure" and "no engine(?)". If you notice, these three are on before you ever start the engine (just before you switch to "start").You've got a tuneable ECU - add some fuel and timing to the rpm bands just below the idle band, see if that helps with the stalling.

It's really quite simple. There is a hose that runs from the LH rocker cover down to the air intake pipe just in front of the turbo. The catch can - or more correctly "oil-air-separator" - basically replaces this hose. Simply direct the LH rocker connection to the separator, and run the return from the separator to the turbo air intake. How bloody difficult is that? And the PCV still operates as designed. BTW, Eddy, there is no Poly Vinyl Chloride involved in the operation of an internal combustion engine. But there is Positive Crankcase Ventilation.

Sometimes the solenoid for the remote lock piggybacks on the normal locking links. If the securing screw comes loose, the links just slide past the solenoid. It possibly got bumped / dislodged while they were installing the door speakers. Take the door liner off and check the solenoid is securely attached to the links.

I have lost count of the number of times it has been stated that the ECU will ignore the O2 sensor during acceleration - it ONLY works on CRUISE!. So, the installation of a new O2 sensor should be coincidental to the problems experienced. Rarely does the O2 sensor play any part in idle as well. However, it might be set to operate from too low revs - try raising the lower threshold to say 2000rpm. (in my Wolf ECU, closed loop, ie "use O2 sensor", is set to operate between 1500 and 4500 rpm, and below 45% load (50% is where boost starts)) The new dump possibly improves the efficiency of the whole system, to a point where the ECU is unable to cope with the changes. In such a case, it would not be inadvisable to do a bit of fine tuning of the ECU. The stalling coming back from WOT could be a due to not having "shut down injectors on overrun" working correctly. It could be due to turning the injectors back on after overrun too late. Your intake pipe is hot because it is sitting in a hotbox (ie engine bay), and close to a hot engine and hot radiator.

The majority of the breaking effort is taken by the FRONT brakes. I can't see any great benefit in changing / upgrading the rear brakes.

I hope they aren't suggesting that the suspension loads up on the bump stops before maximum weight transfer. That would result in an infinite strength spring, and we all know that increasing the front spring rate induces understeer.Maybe something simple like new polyurethane link post rubbers and D-bushes in the front swaybar might help. Maybe a slightly heavier rear bar to control weight transfer.

You might try adding a few degrees of timing in the 500 rpm load band cells.

Translation / clarification please Meantime, check: wheel nuts loose wheel bearing shagged.

+1 more

I found that travelling at 100k could drown out the beep on that section of tollway.

This may be answering your own question.

It's the AAC - Auxilliary Air Control valve. It may also be the TPS out of adjustment and not giving the ECU the "throttle closed" signal.

Usually need for cruise control. But it may have been an early version of what ended up in the 350Z, in that you have to push the clutch pedal to start the engine.

GTS4 is RB20DET engined, with the AWD system of the GT-R. It has the same basic body shape as the GTSt, not the bulging guards of the GT-R. The simplest way is the GTS4 does not have a turbo boost gauge in the instrument panel, it has the AWD torque split gauge (top left of instrument panel). GTS4 will have drive shafts to the front wheels - visible looking down from inside the engine bay.

Then maybe the wire to the sensor is worn and earthing out (you can test a gauge / sensor malfunction by earthing the connection to the sensor - gauge will go full scale if it is working correctly). What does the gauge say when the engine is cold?

There are 2 temp sensors just beside the thermostat housing - a single-pin sensor for the gauge in the dash, and a 2-pin sensor for the ECU. It sounds like your mechanic replaced the ECU sensor, you need to replace the gauge sensor. The problem with the idle-down could be a dirty AAC valve - get it cleaned.

Pretty much mutually exclusive requirements.Certainly, "lots of grip" and "long life" are. I'm currently running Falken 912s. Have previously run B/S Potenza GIIIs. All under $200 each. Generally get in excess of 20k out of them. But then I don't do burnouts, or drift around corners.

You should be able to get a compression reading in about 5 cycles of the engine. The first cycle will generally give most of the compression reading. If the gauge doesn't behave like that, toss it and get a decent gauge - they're not really that expensive.

But not all the pins. (And it's "loom")

The instruction manual should be able to tell you which pins are for the air temp sensor. Then just lay some wire to suit.

I just left my AFM in place - so it looks legit. I don't seem to have any problems with it causing any sort of restriction.

Might be same size, but if they are different manufacturer or different model by same manufacturer, then they could be slightly different. The width is generally "nominal". It's the rolling diameter / circumference that is important. It was odd that you got the problem you had. Ordinarily, the symptoms would be a jerkiness in the AWD system, because ATTESSA sees the slightly smaller (older) rears "slipping"" relative to the (newer) fronts.