blind_elk

I do wish people would do some research into why thermo fans are used in automotive applications. The main reason is to remove some load from the engine. BUT, if you simply wire the thermos up so they are on all the time, then all you have done is move the load from the water pump (viscous fan location) to the alternator (additional electricity needs to be generated to drive the fan(s)). It is also not necessary to set the thermostat for the fans to around normal operating / thermostatted temperature. In general, the movement of the car forces sufficient air through the radiator at normal road speeds to keep the temperature of the coolant under control. Only in stop / start type situations does the coolant temperature rise above thermostatted temp, but there is absolutely no danger in that under those conditions. Once the car gets moving again, the coolant will return to normal operation temperature. So, it is not impractical to set the thermo fan switch point to 90 or even higher. In a Skyline, with the A/C radiator and probably a FMIC, it is not possible to mount a thermo fan in the most efficient "push" position, and you need to mount it as a less efficient "pull" setup. All that being said, my experience is that the design of the front of a Skyline does not allow air to be forced through the radiator while the car is in motion. I have had much better temperature control when the factory viscous fan is fitted, because it creates a permanent air flow through the radiator.

Exhaust. Cams. That's about it really.

Ok, thanks. fixed. Do I now need to go and re-enable DST when DST actually starts?

Do you mean "Windows Control Panel"? I'm using Linux, and the time display I have on my desktop is basically correct.

A couple of weeks ago, I took my 180B SSS over to Elsternwick to film some stuff for the ABC. The footage will be part of the opening to the Marngrook Footy Show, which airs tomorrow (Thursday) night on ABC2 @ 7:30pm.

The timestamp showing on posts appears to be an hour ahead.

Understeer is basically a lack of grip at the front, or, conversely TOO MUCH grip at the rear. You shouldn't use springs / shocks to control body roll - that's what sway bars are for. So, use a slightly stiffer REAR bar.Take a bit of camber from the REAR - drop to maybe -0.5 deg neg. Maybe soften off the front springs a bit.

Basically, you need to disassemble the RH suspension so you can pull the hub off the drive shaft outer. The inner is held in the diff by an internal circlip. To get the inner out of the diff, you need to drift it out. If you try and pull it out, you risk separating the halves of the CV joint.

So the starter motor spins, but doesn't appear to engage and turn the engine. ?? That would suggest that the flyout gear isn't flying out to engage the flywheel. Might just need a clean out, which is a "remove starter motor" job. Otherwise, the immobiliser is actually still ON, and is immobilising the ignition.

You've broken the end off the speedo cable. The small plastic bit drives the speedo. It's supposed to be firmly connected to the inner of the speedo cable. When it's all assembled, there is too much resistance for the plastic bit to drive the speedo. You need a new cable.

Sounds like the solenoid isn't engaging. Try giving it a whack with a hammer. Try applying battery voltage direct to the solenoid pin.

Agreed. Get the diff from your old engine and fit it to the new engine. Even the standard 4.08 diff is too short, IMO.

For safety reasons, tyres are designed to fit on a particular width range of rims. If you have to stretch the tyre to fit on the rim, the safety of the tyre / rim combination is compromised.Check the VicRoads website for the rules, but I think the rule limits rim increases to 1" in width and 2" in diameter.

How is the surge tank plumbed? Is it possible that hot (less dense) fuel is being fed to the engine after warmup?

On reflection, pretty sure it was Just Jap.

Base pressure is 3bar, so 42-43 psi.

NONE of the lights in the dash is on with ACC. They only come on when you switch to ON, and they then come on when there is a problem with the relevant function while the engine is running.

Ah, the old "2 bleed nipples on the caliper" trick. That's the third time this year I've fallen for that one!

According to the NGK cattle dog, the torque for a spark plug with a flat seat, 14mm thread diameter in an Aluminium head, ie an Iridium plug in an RB25, is 18-21.6 lb-ft. You need to remove and install the plug when the engine is cool.

If you let the master cylinder reservoir empty, you need to bleed the master cylinder. Bleed it BEFORE you bleed each corner.

I did the same conversion to my R32 GTS4. I got a Stagea rear diff from one of the import wreckers in Sydney - I think it might have been UAS. Just get the gears transferred to your diff - I think the Stagea rear is non-LSD, so you certainly don't want the centre out of it.

Have you thought about getting the injectors cleaned? Have you tested the fuel pressure? What's the base ignition timing?

Yes, solved. Re-fitted the joint after cleaning up the thread, then took the car through one of the corners where it used to misbehave, and it didn't. I guess the moral of this story is never guess that the technology is always at fault.

Have you tried any of the wreckers to get hold of a space-saver spare? If it's only going to be a "spare", then it doesn't have to be 17". Try for a 15" or 16".

Might be the same part, but not necessarily the same part number.