blind_elk

Have a look for some KYBs. Any good suspension shop should be able to get them for you.

The HICAS in my 32 has been acting up recently. It will randomly steer the arse end left for a second or so, then go back to normal operation. It seems to be most likely to behave like this after cold starts. It is most likely to do it on left turns, and occasionally when travelling straight. It never seems to do it for right turns. There is no error light showing up on the dash (and yes the globe is working). I can't seem to get the system into diagnostic mode, as per the tutorial. But I'm guessing if there is no warning light, then the diagnostics isn't likely to tell me anything. This morning, I unplugged both boxes under the rear parcel shelf to "reset" them. It seemed to help, until on a straight bit of road the car suddenly "crabbed" left for a second, then recovered. Nothing on the car has been changed that might contribute to the behaviour. Anyone have a solution (excluding "fit a lock bar")? TIA.

To check the condition of the shocks, "bounce" the corner of the car. A good shock should stop the bounce in about 1 cycle. And going "squish" is a sure sign that the shocks are not healthy. Also, you will find that the (current) ride quality is actually harsher than if you had new uprated shocks fitted. ALL cars, even F1, have body roll in corners. It is a result of the weight being transferred to the outside of the corner. It's all about physics. You can reduce the body roll by fitting upgraded sway bars (DO NOT use springs / shocks to control body roll).

It's not a matter of the differences in the clutches, but in the gearboxes. GT-Rs have all the ATTESSA plumbing attached. If you disconnect that plumbing, then you need to make sure it is bled properly when re-assembled.

Here's the back of my alternator - I think it's a RB25 alternator, it's on a RB25DET in a R32.

What do you mean by "after market brakes"? Rotors? Calipers? Rotors and calipers? For DBA rotors, check the DBA website (obviously). RDA also make a slotted rotor - check the traders threads on the forum. The rotors and brake pads are different front and rear. Brake Pads - Front = DB1170, Rear = DB1220

Are the spark plugs clean and DRY? You didn't comment that they were covered in fuel. If so, then you are not getting fuel delivered to the cylinder. Have you tried listening to the injectors while cranking the engine?

The screws on the TB are not for adjusting the idle speed. That is done through the AAC valve. If your engine has a massive "hunt", then there is a massive air leak - check the area around the PCV valve. Also, did you thoroughly clean the surfaces of the mainfold and the cylinder head?

I hope you are going to fit some grommets on that sheet of metal that the 2 hoses are passing through!

In your search, you should have found a thread that had a photo of my setup. It's for a RB25 (in a R32), but the basic principle is the same for a RB20.

But whose lifetime? If the tool breaks, wouldn't that be the end of its lifetime?Like a "concrete warranty" - once its off my concrete, what warranty? Bunnings has a Supatool kit, 159 pieces in 5-tray cantilever tool box - only $89. And get a Stanley screwdriver box - 16 pc at Bunnings $34.

Which track? Aren't EBC blacks the u-beaut comp grade? You have ABS?Best to do a full fluid change before your next time on the track. I upgraded my R32 GTS4 to R32 GT-R slotted rotors and std R32 GT-R (Sumitomo) calipers. The brakes feel better, but I haven't taken them to the track.

Yes.Bleed the clutch master cylinder first, then bleed the slave cylinder.

Pretty certain I heard today that Vic government was planning a similar move. They reckon the cameras "that are purely revenue raisers" would be shut down - that would mean about 99% of them!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/371909-sunroof-seal-r30-hatch/

I have a brand new sunroof seal for a R30 Hatch. I purchased it but never got to install it before the car was stolen. Brand new from Nissan, it cost over $300, selling for $225.

Probably the line back from the carbon canister. So you can leave it as is.

Ford Focus, Focus RS, Fiesta Zetec

The idea is not to keep the surge tank full. The surge tank is really a "de-aeration system", to prevent the engine ingesting air because of fuel surge in the fuel tank, or because of air "dissolved" in the fuel. It is highly unlikely that the surge tank would ever get anywhere near empty enough to experience fuel surge.

Isn't the setup: Top - return from fuel rail 2nd top - overflow to fuel tank 3rd top - inlet from fuel tank Bottom - outlet to pump to rail

Then you will just have to backtrack through the electrics until you find where you start having power. I think it highly unlikely that anyone can simply come up with a "it will be here" solution.Having said that, check that the relays are working.

If it happens when you load the electrics, then that suggests a problem with the alternator. Or possibly a bad earth.

Doesn't hold true. Just because you are doing less revs doesn't mean you are using less fuel. The engine is at its most efficient when near peak torque. 60k in 5th isn't within a bull's roar of peak torque.

I believe that switch controls adjusting the mirrors, not folding them in or out.

Have you tried the drive cog from your original gearbox? Failing that, the box is made by Nissan - I wonder if they have a drive cog? (you will need to have some idea of how many teeth you need on the cog, depends how far "out" the speedo is with the current R32 drive)