blind_elk

As an added bonus, Nissan will have one of their R35 Nismo GT-Rs on display.

Nissan Datsun Sports Owners Club (NDSOC) and Classic Skylines Australia (CSA) proudly present the first All Nissan Day, happening at the Bosch factory in Clayton on Sunday July 25. This event replaces the traditional Christmas in July event at Carribean Gardens. All Nissan / Datsun / Prince vehicles and their owners are invited to attend. Entry is free. You must register prior to the event - https://www.ndsoc.com.au/event-4277096 ALL NISSAN DAY flyer_4 26may2021_71.pdf

If it wasn't that dirty, then it's possible the previous owner cleaned it. And that is a recipe for disaster - and a fast idle speed! Cleaning the TB removes the material put there at manufacture to seal off the butterfly in the TB and stop the air leak that causes the fast idle.

That is a common cause for the same problem in GT-Rs. (Maybe the previous owner did it)

I wouldn't be surprised if the "wetness" is actually unburnt fuel. Next to no point starting the engine and letting it idle for 40 minutes - it's unlikely to get up to operating temp, with the result that it runs permanently rich (because it's cold). Also, try opening out the gap, to around 1mm (factory spec is 1.1mm).

Are you sure it's not firing - you've removed the coil and stuck a spark plug in, and there is no spark? That's one third of the equation. Another third of the equation is fuel. Does the injector work? The final piece of the equation is compression. Do you have compression?

Thanks

Seems the pivot pin has snapped off inside the bell housing. Just wondering if it is a screw-in or tolerance fit.

Driving home from Emerald to Tarneit yesterday, got to FTG, pulling up at a set of lights, and the clutch pedal in the 32 dropped to the floor. Worked out that the piston was falling out the back of the clutch slave cylinder. Surmise either the clutch pressure plate has collapsed, or the fork has collapsed. Anyway, having trouble finding a trailer to get the car home. If you can help at all, please sms me - 0421 331 954. If necessary, I can pay fuel costs, etc for your help. TIA.

I think I have a problem with the ETS in my 89 R32 GTS4. The error appears to be temperature sensitive - the warning light only generally comes on after a while, comes on sooner on warm days. Anyone know a shop in the western suburbs (around Werribee) that knows these little buggers and how to diagnose / fix them? TIA

IIRC, there is a little temp sensor that wraps around the heater pipe, up against the firewall (engine-side). That may be the one reporting as faulty.

Have you done a wet compression test?

Sorry, but if you aren't doing any sort of motorsport, why on earth do you need 450hp?

S1 / S2 RB25DET? How do you know its 1 of the rear plugs that is misfiring? I've had similar problem - turned out to be a failing coil pack. Since you still have the OEM coils, suggest you upgrade to new ones.

Bunnings must have something in a rubber grommet to fit. Maybe also Clark Rubber.

With everything oem and brand new coil packs, its unlikely you need a .8 spark gap. Open the gap back up, around 1mm.

Thanks your info. (btw, its definitely not a Neo)

I have a Stagea RB25DET in my R32 GTS4. I was wondering if it would be any advantage to change the cylinder head for one from a R33 GTSt. Or maybe just the cams.

I'm no expert, but I know enough about the basics. The figure being displayed by the PFC is the number PROGRAMMED into it. It is not telling you what it is reading but rather what it is trying to achieve. So, the PFC gets a trigger at some point, say 60BTDC, and then calculates when the engine will be at the programmed point, say 23BTDC, when it should fire the spark. So if the PFC gets the trigger at the wrong time, the actual firing point will not match the programmed firing point. I run a Wolf unit on my RB25DET, and it has a function to adjust the trigger point so that what is programmed is what you see with a timing light. Check if the PFC has a similar function. (And be aware, some timing lights seem to show double the actual timing) Now more experienced people can take over diagnosing your problem.

Its an aerofoil for your wiper. Holds the blade onto the glass at speed. (passenger doesn't need to see where you are going, so LHS doesn't have one!)

Well, that will put the CAS waaaayyy out of position. To test for valve damage, do a compression test.

Looks a bit like a compressor for air horns. Could be wrong (wouldn't be the first time!)

Couple of thoughts: Adjustable sway bar links not even. Pre-load on front or rear sway bars. Rear shocks uneven, try swapping them L<>R.

Are you sure the CAS went back in the right orientation. If the half-moon locator key in the ex cam breaks off, its possible to align the CAS incorrectly. If the CAS is even one tooth out, the engine won't start.

By "dash switch", I'm guessing you're referring to the push-button, next to the round switch. It is for fog lights - in the absence of fog lights, it simply turns on park lights - has no effect on projector / main. Your left lights are working as designed, the problem with the right is, as GTSBoy suggested, a problem with the contacts in the rotary switch.