blind_elk

I believe pipe diameters are quoted as "inside diameter". So a 3.5" pipe has an internal diameter = 3.5".

In the R32s, its usually a problem in the switch. Wouldn't be surprised if R34s develop the same problem.

This statement is self-contradicting. "turn over" and "crank" are the same thing, so you must mean it will crank but not start.In any case, the battery is on its last legs. The ECU requires a minimum voltage to stay alive (about 7V, I think). You may be using so much battery voltage just to crank the engine that there isn't sufficient to fire up the ECU, so the engine doesn't start. It could all be the result of a loose fan belt. Check the fan belt tension. Then get a jump start. Then go and get a new battery.

Run the engine number through FAST: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/128496-vins-you-want-fasted/

If you have a lose battery cable, then you won't recharge the battery properly. Then after starting, the alternator starts generating squillions of amps to try and recharge the battery; the ECU sees this as a problem, and the engine runs like crap. Removing the cable simply resets the ECU, and after restarting it runs ok because the engine is up to operating temp. It probably started doing it because the battery is getting a bit long in the tooth. Try a new battery. PS - drive the car from cold. You are simply wasting fuel and causing additional damage to the engine by waiting for it to warm up before you start driving it.

Must be Superman (has X-ray vision) if he can tell the condition without opening the unit! You just need to take off the rear cover plate to inspect the innards. Then find another diff specialist to confirm or deny the condition of the crown wheel and pinion - these are the only bits that need to be in OK condition.

Frankly, I wouldn't be worrying about running so lean at idle. It will not damage the engine at all, because there is virtually no load on the engine. As for the popping, have to set up the EMS to shut off the injectors when the throttle closes (such as when you coast down, or change gears)?

That probably isn't helping.

Which 3 aren't firing?

When I installed Bilsteins on my GTS4, I used the top groove for the circlip. I'm using Kings lowered springs.

Check you haven't bent any of the pins in the connector on the coil.

You can also cancel the Vic registration, then purchase a temporary permit (certainly available from VicRoads, maybe from NSW RTA) so you can drive the car back to NSW and go through the rego process there.

You will be able to swap the GTS4 gears (crown wheel and pinion) into the GT-R diff. But you must do BOTH - you can't just swap the crown wheel OR the pinion. There wil not be any problem with the GT-R centre being mechanical LSD and the GTS4 being a viscous LSD. In fact, you are probably better off with the GT-R's mechanical centre,

Will have NOTHING to do with the O2 sensor (doesn't anyone read threads that cover O2 sensor operation?) Sounds like an AAC problem. But also get the injectors cleaned.

You shouldn't have to change the flywheel when you purchase a new clutch.

Any gearbox that attaches to an RB engine will attach to any other RB engine.

Those aren't Z rims, Andrew. And the carbies aren't technically 260Z carbies. They appear to be genuine SUs. 260Z carbies aren't "tuneable".

Most ECUs will require a TPS signal so it knows: 1. Throttle closed so the ECU can control "injector shutdown on overrun". 2. Throttle closed so the ECU knows when to activate "idle" programming. 3. (sometimes) when the throttle has been snapped open (acceleration enrichment). BTW, I'm running Wolf, and use the TPS for all of the above.

$30 ?!?!?!?!? Find a (home) building site, grab a couple of offcuts of 8" x 2" timber. Or go down to Bunnings, and fork out about $11 for a length of 50mm treated pine sleeper - then cut to length.

R32 GT-R rim has a smaller offset. Std rim is a 16", 6" wide I think. (R33 GTSt rotors appear to be same diameter as R32 GT-R rotors)

Check all the intercooler plumbing connections.

Have you tried rotating the shock tops 180 degrees?

Bilstein shocks with Kings lowered springs should lower the car correctly, and give you a firm ride with good handling.

I've used a Bride rail to mount a Recaro in my 32. Not sure which model though. I think I had to drill some new holes in it to suit the Recaro.

A 235 tyre fits nicely on a 7.5" rim. I wouldn't advise going wider. I still run 235s on an 8" rim (and no need to roll the rims either).