blind_elk

Is it possible the air temp sensor is failing? Getting heat sink onto the sensor during "off", and ECU can't handle the readings the sensor is giving.

Try Pedders.

Worked fine when I fitted GT-R calipers to my GTS4.

Super Crap have a little kit that has a 1-way valve so that you can bleed the brakes with 1 person. Around $15.

If there is no cam belt, then the cams won't turn with the crank, and you will end up with valves still protruding into piston space. What does "CYL 1 at BTDC" mean? Do you mean TDC? (B = Before) How does the RB26 rod compare in length to RB25 rods? Maybe the RB26 rods are too long, and are trying to push the piston crown into the combustion chamber.

What plugs are you running now? Unless you have some serious boost, I doubt the 7 heat range plugs will fix the problem - probably only make it worse.

Yes. Nailed it in 1.

NOTHING TO DO WITH THE O2 SENSOR!!!!!! Standard Iridium plug is a (NGK) heat range 5, I believe. Try some BCPR5ES plugs, see what happens.

I was under the impression that to get a licence (at least in Vic), you had to be able to parallel park. Why then did some dufus (on Ps) ask me to park his car today while I was working out front of a police station!?

I have a feeling that that CAS won't work on a RB30 engine - it looks like it only has 4 triggers, not 6.

What ECU are you using? S2 engines have the ignitor for the coils built in, S1s had a separate igniter box.

Well, does it?

It's been covered before - not more than 2 months ago, complete with pics. 1. Remove the hose between the left (passenger) rocker cover and the turbo inlet. 2. Run a hose from the left rocker cover to the catch can. 3. Run another hose from the catch can to the turbo inlet. How simple is that? To reduce the risk of oil fumes being carriewd over to the turbo - the general purpose of the catch can - fill the can with steel wool. This provides a surface to assist with getting the oil out of the air.

Sorry, misunderstood your description. Probably just needs a service while the gearbox is out, I don't think it needs replacing. And make sure it has a good earth when you put it back together.

Had a similar problem - starter solenoid would click click click. Fitted a relay to the solenoid and have not had a single repeat since. It's a pretty cheap mod, why not do it anyway.

Yes, you'll need to order one from your Nissan dealer. (not sure if a wrecker will sell you one from gearbox)

So does the coil (from #1) work on #2? If so, then it could be a faulty spark plug - have you tried swapping the spark plugs? Or it could be a fault in the loom to #1 coil.

How "good"? What voltage: @OFF @START @IDLE From memory, this is a voltage (or maybe charging rate) problem as seen by the ATTESSA computer.

GPS is an ideal way to verify speed. I'm not aware of the R32 tacho being switchable, but the difference in revs sounds like a tacho switch to monitor a 4-cyl engine, but getting the signal from a 6.

GTS4 is the same as GT-R. Although the fronts are the same across the R32 range, GT-R/GTS4 rears have a different lower mounting setup to the GTSt.

I would trust the SAFC - it's digital, your tacho is analog. But really, the tacho is basically for information, it is not necessarily definitive.

I suspect a partially open thermostat. Dime a dozen, so to speak. At least pull it out and check it. Costs next to nothing.

Probably not a good idea to leave out the fan shroud. But I don't believe that is causing this "problem". I say "problem", because I think what is happening is perfectly explainable, and normal. The situation of having the cooling system under pressure during engine operation is to increase the boiling point of the water. (coolant generally is added for metal protection, and ethylene glycol in the coolant lowers the freezing point of the water). Obviously, when the engine stops, the pressure in the cooling system is removed. As the pressure reduces, it gets to a point where the pressure is less than that required to prevent the coolant boiling at its current temperature / pressure condition. If you are not losing coolant, and the engine appears to be running at a reasonable operating temperature, then I don't believe there is anything to worry about. But, for peace of mind, might I suggest you get an external temperature gauge connected to monitor the actual coolant temperatures.

How healthy is the battery?

Shouldn't ever do it in 2WD mode. As per the several thousand other threads that discuss this problem, the ATTESSA thinks the rear wheels are slipping, because they are smaller rolling diameter than the fronts, and therefore rotate faster.I am still at a loss as to how many times we have to tell AWD owners to match the front and rear wheel / tyre sizes.