blind_elk

If you were able to set timing, then #1 coilpack IS firing. And you said it works fine in other cylinders. Your problem could be a gummed up injector in #1. It might be wise to get them all cleaned anyway.

How does changing an engine have any effect on the wipers? Certainly didn't when I swapped a RB25 into by 32 GTS4.

Normally attaches to the heat shield that should be covering the turbo.

AAMI is paying for the repairs. I reckon that gives them to right to say who will repair it. If it's one of their "preferred repairers", then you have every recourse to see that the repair is carried out to your satisfaction. Put yourself in their shoes - if you had to pay for someone else's repairs out of your own pocket, wouldn't you want to do it for the least possible cost?

I believe the skirt - the surface the sump bolts to - is wider in the AWD version of the RB25 block.

Anyone who fitted a camber kit to a bent upper control arm should be shot! Castor is usually responsible for the car steering one way or the other. Did you get Pedders to check all the suspension components? What are the alignment settings? I'm guessing a failed castor bush on the LHS. (not forgetting that the camber of the road is usually to the left)

Fuel doesn't "go off" that quickly. I take about 2 weeks to go through a tank (BP Ultimate), and I've yet to notice any fall off in performance week to week.

Have you got fluid in the master cylinder?

AFAIK, the sumps are not intertchangeable. You will have to get an adapter, or have a sump custom made.Other than that, the engine will be a simple bolt-in.

In my experience, Nissan gearboxes are pretty well bullet proof. You really have to be brutal to it to break it.I'm pushing 180 AwkW through my R32 GTS4 gearbox (RB25DET driving through an Exedy HD clutch), and it has never even looked like failing.

There were some hot brakes too:

Wait, found a couple more:

Could only find a couple of reasons to attend the AGP:

Found a new home for the ticket.

I have a 4-day pass available to anyone who wants it. PM me if interested.

I'll be there.

Checking out a "showbag" from a recent event, found a brochure for some things called rimskins - www.rimskins.com.au - which might cover up the rash you have now and prevent the problem in the future.

What plugs are they? Type, heat range, gap?

Currently running Falken 912 on my 32 GTS4. Never really had any dramas with Falkens in general. Also been happy with the Bridgestone Potenza GIIIs.

There are 2 sensors - 1 for the gauge, and another one to tell the ECU what the coolant temperature is.Really, you shouldn't be pushing the engine before it is warmed up properly (and letting it idle for several minutes first WILL NOT warm it up). AND IT WILL HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH THE O2 SENSOR!!!!!!!!!!!! For the 2,345,987th time, the ECU only reacts to the O2 sensor on constant throttle / cruise conditions. Under acceleration, the ECU ignores any input from the O2 sensor. The engine is cold, it isn't working to optimium - live with it!

This was discussed only a few weeks ago. Granted, it was for a 25, but the general construction is still the same.

So the cable works fine?

It's still unclear whether or not you have fuel, and when. With fuel line disconnected after the fuel filter, what happens when: - turn key to ON? - turn key to START?

I suspect you are running a too cold plug. RB25DET is a '5' standard, and unless you are making serious power, I wouldn't go colder than a '6'. Also, a 'BK' plug is marginally shorter than a 'BCP' plug (from seat to terminal contact) - maybe change to a BCPR5ES or BCPR6ES plug, gapped around 1mm.

Spongy pedal is usually air in the system (poorly bled).