blind_elk

It happened just after didn't it? You have a significant air leak after the AFM and before the throttle body. Probably popped an intercooler piping connection.

Why? There is no point in having a thermo fan on permanently. The principle is to have them only come on if the engine overheats. The majority of the time, the movement of the car produces sufficent airflow through the radiator to keep the temperature under control. Although my experience has been that the factory viscous clutch fan is far superior in performance at maintaining engine temperatures. The air should be as cool as possible before it enters the turbo. The turbo adds heat during the process of compressing the air charge. While the intercooler removes some of that heat, it cannot remove all the heat. So if you have a pod, the air entering the combustion chamber will generally be even hotter than if you use the original airbox.

As far as I am aware, they are slightly different: Both have the same duration (240) and lift (7.8). RB20DET: Lobe Centre - 120 Opens - 60 BBDC Closes - TDC RB25DET: Lobe Centre - 117 Opens - 57 BBDC Closes - 3 ATDC

The 2 nuts are for a "locknut" system. Secure the strut with the first (larger / thicker) nut, then screw the other nut down and lock the 2 together.

Are you sure there are no air leaks anywhere?

You need to get the idle correct. There should be a tutorial somewhere on how to adjust it using the screw in the AAC valve. Then make sure that the timing light you are using is not doubling the reading when you are checking base timing. Best to go "old school" by inserting a spark plug lead between #1 coil and #1 spark plug, then measure the timing off the lead.

I suspect one of the pistons is stuck. Either the outer is jamming and not retracting from the disk, or the inner is jammed and not pressing fully on the disk. Best to get all 4 calipers overhauled.

So, is fuel being pumped or not? As DVS32R suggested, the filter could be blocked (well and truly!).No point having fuses "look ok". You need to check them with a multimeter (ohms setting) to be absolutely sure. If you are getting spark, then the CAS is ok. And "turn over" and "crank" are the same thing.

Sounds like you have bent 12 and possibly 24 valve heads. Are you sure the cams were set up correctly? Have you got compression?

It is easy to spot the key in the end of the cam: If it isn't there, you can probably see a rough spot on the base of the recess where the key broke off from. Then you need to visualise how it all looks so you can position the CAS correctly. Alternatively, just keep repositioning the CAS until the engine fires.

In nearly all of the 7,369 threads on this problem, it is mentioned that there should be a half-moon key on the end of the exhaust cam that aligns with a half-moon slot on the CAS. If the key is missing (broken off), then the CAS can align in one of 8 or so positions, but there is only 1 alignment that will allow the engine to start.Confirm that the key is there first. If it is, then the engine should run - maybe roughly, but it should run.

Is it the brake lights or the tail lights? If the brake lights, then the switch on the brake pedal has probably gone out of adjustment.

Bilstein built the shocks for the R32 Nissan Group A race cars. Can't be too bad a shock.

What suspension do you have now? What tyres do you have now? Just because the tyres are new doesn't mean they have grip. If you still have the standard suspension, then it is likely shot, but will allow good weight transfer to the rears, which is counter to loss of traction.

Hopefully placed order for Yellow Jackets to suit C34 Stagea RB25DET. (ref GTST4)

Birds, is that your comment about "none ... was / were charged..."? "was" is correct - the sentence is "not one (ie none) ... was charged ...". You wouldn't say "not one ... were charged ...", would you?

What's wrong with Bilstein shocks? Why does everyone recommend Japanese shocks with super high valve rates, and that are designed for super-smooth Japanese roads?

There is basically only one way that the CAS can be fitted that will permit the engine to run. The only difference from where it was before you disassembled it is the base timing setting that you will now have, and you can check that with a timing light.

Would only seat 5 if: a) driver and front passenger are <5ft tall or b) rear passengers have no legs

Why not just tape the button "IN" with duct tape. When you are finished drifting, remove the tape, and you have a normal handbrake.

Rotors are the same, so the calipers are presumably the same.

Shouldn't be any need to have the discs machined. And you can deglaze the pads by roughing them on a concrete path.

Best place to start is with the CAS in the middle. As you try to start the engine, you could make minor manual adjustments to the CAS's position so that you get a smooth idle. Once the engine is up to temp, get the timing light onto it.

Have you got compression? Injectors should have constant 12V on one pin, the other pin gets switched to earth by the ECU. There should be a tutorial on how to get diagnostics. (And how do you check timing if the engine won't run?)

And that would be me not reading all the posts properly