blind_elk

Have you bled the master cylinder? It should be bled first, then bleed the wheels (LR, RR, LF, RF)

No you don't! Here's mine, stil complying with the requirement to have a fully sealed system not venting to atmosphere:

Fred Gibson removed the HICAS from the race cars because it had the nasty habit of turning the car around if you backed off halfway around a corner. Not an ideal situation on the racetrack. NEVER believe the odometer of a car delivered from Japan.

Pretty sure that won't work. You still have it set up so that oil and oil vapour can be sucked into the intake side of the turbo, particularly under boost (high load) conditions. And that is exactly when you don't want it to happen. The PCV valve only opens under high vacuum (low load) and detonation from the oil vapour isn't a problem.

Push Button just above the main dial. (it's common problem, and there are many posts about it)

How old is the battery? Skylines aree notorious for being sensitive to voltages. Older batteries take more current to recharge after a cold start, and most of the ECUs view this as a problem, and misbehave accordingly.

The distributor should only install one way, because it is aligned by an offset tag on the distributor drive shaft.

Do you have same size tyre / rim combo on all 4 corners?And my money is on the throwout bearing (should have been replaced when the OS giken was installed).

I'm pretty sure the engine bay isn't anywhere long enough to accommodate 6 cylinders. A grunty little 4, along the lines of the CA18, is likely your best bet. But then you need to worry about how to make it stop. And turn corners. Maybe address those problems first.

Sounds like the solenoid on top of the starter motor has jammed. In "old school" fashion, use a bigger hammer and give it a jolt, see if that frees it up. But first, chek that the starter wire hasn't disconnected from the solenoid.

Westgate Bridge (inbound) around 5pm today - "Black and White" R34, rego JDMCOP

Unless you fully understand the principle for the usse of a thermo fan, and know how to properly install it and properly operate it, stick with the factory setup. I'm sure Nissan knew what they were doing when they decided on the use of the viscous clutch type against a thermo setup.

Pretty certain the switch is in the same unit as the sender. Have you checked that the wires into the sender / switch are still intact?

Looking at the spec sheet for Toyo's Proxes 4 (most manufacturers would be similar), the recommended max width for a 245/45x18 is 9", and for a 225/45x18 8.5"

If you travel on the Indian Pacific, you can take your car for $849. http://www.gsr.com.au/site/indian_pacific/taking_your_car.jsp

I've found the tacho reads a bit higher than actual. The last time I bounced the limiter, tacho was showing around 8k.

No it won't! The ECU only runs for about 5 seconds when you turn the key to IGN, just to pressurise the fuel system. Back to OP, I had mine off the road for about 3 months, still ran fine when it finally got re-started.

Not so much concerned about the diameter of the disk, more concerned about the diameter of the pistons in the calipers. Larger pistons will require more pedal travel, or a bigger diameter master cylinder. Anyone know how the piston diameters compare?

Count me in.

Yes, a stiffer rear bar will reduce the understeer tendency (actually, increase the oversteer tendency). A bit less rear -ve camber will also help. More air pressure in the front tyres will reduce the understeer. More -ve camber in the front will reduce the understeer. The range from Whiteline is probably the best researched bars for Skylines.

And less sidewall to support the weight of the car.

Raise the cut-in temp of the fans. There is no point fitting thermo fans that run basically all the time. All you are doing is shifting the load on the engine from a factory fan to the alternator. The cut-in can be as high as 90 C, or even higher - the motion of the car will control the engine temps; the fan is just for those times when the engine gets a bit hotter because the car isn't moving, or is moving too slowly. As for the temp increasing at idle, are you sure the fans are running the right way - pulling air through the radiator into the engine bay (I'm assuming you have had to mount the fans on the engine side of the radiator). Ordinarily, having a raised rear of bonnet is only a problem when the car is moving - there is a high pressure region created at the base of the windscreen (that's where comes from for the heater / a/c in the cabin). When the rear of the bonnet is raised, this high pressure region feeds a high pressure into the engine bay, and that restricts air flowing through the radiator to cool the engine. (you should recall from high school physics that air moves from regions of high pressure to regions of low pressure; if the inside of the engine bay is already at a high pressure, then air from in front of the radiator won't flow towards that region)

It's not a matter of having stretched tyres. It's that the tyres are quite low profile, and the pressure is required to keep the sidewall stiff enough to support the weight of the car. Generally, the smaller the profile of the tyre, the higher the pressure required to keep the tyre in the correct shape.

Go and see Craig at Trackside Tyres in Bayswater.

Gee, I wish I'd thought of that!