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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    My guess is that the spring behind the detent ball has broken, and as such does not hold the selector rod in place. You might be able to replace the spring without removing the 'box.
  2. blind_elk
    It would appear that your ultimate intention is to get rid of HICAS. If that is the case, why not just fit a HICAS lock bar. I would think that would be a much simpler course of action.
  3. blind_elk
    In my 32, I've mounted the extinguisher on a strip af aluminium and then used the front seat bolts to mount the al strip.
  4. blind_elk
    As distinct from night driving in the day? Or day driving at night? A 100W halogen throws a pretty fair amount of light. So I wouldn't expect a Xenon (even if there was one to fit) to do much better. It's a spread beam - not much chance of improving the "throw" of the beam. You really need a "spot" or "pencil" pattern to get good throw.
  5. blind_elk
    When searching through pages in the "members" area, the "Jump to page" function jumps to Page 1, regardless of which page you want to jump to.
  6. blind_elk
    I believe you have 2 options. First, the machine shop would ordinarily sleeve the cylinders back to standard bore. Second, get the machinist to bore the cylinders over by the smallest possible amount, then get someone to make a set of pistons to suit the new bore size (I used Australian Precision Engine Parts in Wantirna (Vic) to make me a set of forged os pistons for my RB25).
  7. blind_elk
    How?
  8. blind_elk
    If the battery is COMPLETELY flat, then that has the same effect as disconnecting it. Controllers in general should always retain their information - who would want to re-program a PFC just because the battery went flat? Radios and the like will lose their settings.
  9. blind_elk
    If you are getting heat transfer into the sensor, then you are getting heat transfer into the air in the plenum. And I suspect that the sensor is actually registering the heat-soaked air in the plenum rather than sensing heat transfer from the metal of the plenum.
  10. blind_elk
    This appears to be part of the standard marking on the plug, doesn't indicate anything special about the plug, AFAICT.
  11. blind_elk
    Check: Engine temp sensor Throttle valve switch - sending "throttle closed" signal AAC valve seized Air regulator not closing Air leaks Most of these have been covered, you just need to search on how to test / fix them.
  12. blind_elk
    For the 32s, it is either the engine temp sensor (disconnect it, see if engine starts), or a fuel pressure problem.
  13. blind_elk
    Volts and amps are different things.I would expect any half reasonable relay, eg Bosch, would do the trick.
  14. blind_elk
    That would be the rating of the relay, not the fuse.
  15. blind_elk
    The fuse block cover has the fuse layout printed on it. The layout includes the size of each fuse.
  16. blind_elk
    Beats the Rolls Royce with a 27L V12 Spitfire Merlin engine - they reckon it sounded like Heathrow at peak hour! Max revs I think were about 2700.
  17. blind_elk
    Better, throw it in the oil recycling drum!
  18. blind_elk
    Haven't read EVERY page, but has anyone noticed that the "TOP" button has disappeared from threads. (was next to where "Report" is now)
  19. blind_elk
    There is some talk of extending the age restriction to 30 years.
  20. blind_elk
    There is loads of information on this forum as to how the AWD system operates. Do a search. The gauge will sit on 0 in normal driving. Your search will reveal when the gauge will move off 0. The 4/2 WD switch works by isolating the ATTESSA computer. Again, heaps of information on this forum - SEARCH. Fuses are located in the bottom of the dash, by your right knee (which you would have found with a search!).
  21. blind_elk
    ???? And no, never had a problem with the glovebox either!
  22. blind_elk
    The speedo will work because it's mechanical. Do the warning lights come on when you put the key to "ON", ie just before you start the engine? Any other symptoms you can tell us about? Maybe check the fuses with a multimeter - often the fuse can look perfectly ok but have the smallest of breaks in the fuse material.
  23. blind_elk
    What have you checked? Or did you simply fire off a question? With things electrical failing, the very first place to look is the fuses, so go and have a look.
  24. blind_elk
    The springs are probably soft enough. The suspension is probably hard because the shocks are past their "best before" date. New shocks - something inexpensive like a KYB - will probably fit the bill.
  25. blind_elk
    My experience with the 32 is that it is easiest if you remove the IC piping from around the P/S pump to give clearer access to the adjusting bolt. Wouldn't be surprised if you need to do the same with the 33.
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