blind_elk

You might be measuring the amps incorrectly. The ammeter needs to be in series, so you disconnect the +ve terminal and connect the ammeter between the +ve of the battery and the +ve terminal/cable. 0.42A shouldn't be enough drain on the battery to flatten it in a day. Also, when the engine is running, how many volts at the battery? How many volts at 2k rpm?

If you need added support, the seat is where you should be looking. Something like a Recaro - comes in many designs, so you should find one to suit your needs. And they are surprisingly inexpensive (when compared to a factory Nissan seat).

Visit your local Pirtek / Enzed store and get the oil-resistant hose.

This is from the R32 Engine Manual for "difficult to start - engine cold": 1. Fuel enrichment from engine temperature sensor not working (sensor not working at cold) - disconnect sensor - any difference? - sensor resistance value? - sensor voltage value? 2. Idle speed control (AAC) not working - AAC valve closed? - AAC valve plug disconnected? 3. Start time enrichment not working (check through CONSULT) 4. Cranking speed too low (sus battery, sus starter motor) (presumably same or very similar for RB33)

If I'm understanding this (http://www.mantaro.com/resources/impedance_calculator.htm#air_core_solenoid) correctly, the impedance of a RB26 injector solenoid is fixed. RB26 injectors are low-impedance injectors. The purpose of the resistor pack is to reduce the current passing through the solenoid's inductor coil. If you are using RB26 injectors then you will need a dropping resistor pack. Unless the PFC can detect and automatically adjust the current it delivers to drive the RB26 injector's solenoid. (feel free to correct me if I misunderstand the whole concept)

Then reset the ECU and see what error codes come up.Could be a sticking AAC valve causing the idle hunting.

Which ECU? Maybe a faulty (ECU) temp sender (ECU thinks the engine is warm). Maybe faulty cold start air correction valve.

Have an XF Falcon that I got from my brother. AFAIK, it's still original engine, has a bit over 447k on it. Probably lasted this long because my brother lived in quite remote places, but worked in Sydney (Qantas international pilot, so only drives to work once a week! every couple of weeks - 400k up the Hume).

20 deg is "cold". 80 deg is "hot". According to my manual, specifications for the engine temp sensor is in ohms, with resistance across the 2 pins as: "cold" = 2.5Kohm "hot" = 0.3Kohm. The relationship is not linear, so 10deg might be around 5Kohm. But I would suspect that as long as you have similar order of magnitude readings, you could assume the sensor is working correctly. Also, if there is a problem, Code 31 might be present when you do the ECU diagnosis.

Vice Grips FTW.

BS! Which Wolf 3D are you talking about? These are available in the "4 Plus" version.Nothing intrinsically wrong with the Wolf. I run 1 myself, and it works fine. And it's Oz designed and made.

NS40ZL is recommended. Just because the battery holds charge doesn't necessarily mean it is healthy. The fact that it can't start the car would indicate that it is getting a bit past it's use-by date.

Well, you should. There is a reason why tyres come with a recommended rim width, which for a 215 is 7 - 8.5 inch.Glad you're in the Gong - means there's little chance of meeting you on the road.

Fan should be set to come on at around 95. Thermo fans only need to run when the engine overheats. If you want one that works most of the time, put the factory fan back on. Did you refit the "stone guard" under the radiator?

Base idle will have a minor effect on the reading you get. But I would expect only 1-2 deg variance from spec. Are you sure the lead you are using isn't broken at all? You could also try removing the boot from the coil and connecting the plug lead to the coil.

Just use an ordinary spark plug lead. Peel back the "distributor" end fitting (shorter cap) and insert the exposed lead end into the coil so the lead contacts the coil's output pin. You don't need a bolt or anything similar.

The '11' on the end is the plug gap - 1.1mm. This is a nominal manufacturer setting - you should double check as you install each plug. If you have a few mods that might increase engine power, consider reducing the gap a bit, say 1.0 or 0.9mm .

Generally, the alternator is a dud. With engine running, battery should be in the range 13.8 - 14.4V, even with engine only idling.

Use a multimeter to test the voltage at the battery under the various conditions - lights on, lights off, stereo on, stereo off, engine at idle, engine at 2000, any others you can think of. Q - have you checked the tension on the alternator belt?

Have you got a pilot light to indicate when the fan is operating? Have you set the fan operation so you know when it turns on / off? The cfm rating of a thermo fan is irrelevant to keeping the engine cool at highway speeds. If a thermo is installed correctly, the only real time the fan should turn on is in stop / start traffic, or if you just let it idle for extened periods of time. If you have the thermo fan working all the time, then you are basically defeating the reason for having a thermo fan, and that is to take load off the engine (you simply transfer the load from the factory fan to the alternator). When I had a thermo (Davies Craig) I had problems keeping the engine cool - the fan would turn on at highway speeds on slight upward inclines on moderate temp (25C) days. I figured the problem was getting air to actually go through the radiator, so I put the original factory fan back on. Haven't had a problem since.

Do it "old school" - insert a plug lead between #1 coil and #1 spark plug, then measure off the lead.

I had to rebuild mine after I smashed the rings in #2. I had a 1mm o/s bore, crank / flywheel / clutch balanced, ACL bearings, custom pistons (from Aust Precision Engine Parts, Wantirna, Vic). Got a "mate's rates" assembly, all for about $6k. You need to be careful about fitting forged pistons. The pistons need to run hot, otherwise you are risking them not expanding enough to give a good seal around the rings and thus burning oil. And I'm pretty sure it has been stated in a squillion and one threads that the AWD sump does not just bolt up to the RWD block!

What timing is it running at start? The reason it is starting with some throttle is possibly die to the throttle allowing more air to enter the combustion chamber, which implies too much fuel while starting. Have you looked at any form of temperature correction in the maps (don't know about PFC, but Wolf has a seperate temp compensation map).

The manufacturers generally recommend the fan is set up as a PUSH fan, which means mounting in front of the radiator. I realise that is difficult because of all the A/C stuff and IC hanging around out there. So when you mount the fan inside the engine bay (behind the radiator), you set it up as a PULL fan. And of couse the air is hot because the fan is pulling air over a hot radiator. BTW, how are you switching the fan on when the engine gets a bit hotter?

Heavy front springs will increase understeer tendencies.