blind_elk

Pretty much. Make sure you jack BOTH sides, otherwise it will be near impossible to put them back in.

Yellow Pages - Fuel Injection Services

The main headlamp switch is prone to causing this sort of failure. I think it's the contacts inside the switch get dirty and don't contact properly.

Manufacturer's specifications will tell you what size rim for a particular sized tyre. According to a Toyo brochure (most of the others will be very similar), "approved" rim width for a 245/45x18 tyre is 7.5 - 9.0 . Problem will be that the 45 profile tyre will have a larger rolling diameter than your previous 35 profile tyres.

If you are doing it simply to prevent any discharge of the battery, then you really only need to disconnect 1 terminal. Once you have done that, there is no continuity between the terminals of the battery, and nothing can draw current from the battery.

Try replacing the ignitor. They develop problems with heat when they start getting a bit old.

The marks on the timing belt are irrelevant. The only marks you need to concern yourself with are the ones on the gears / pullies.

It's unlikely to be a problem of fuel quality. After all, the fuel is simply a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons that form an explosive mixture in the presence of the correct amount of air. While the fuel may go "off" with time, it does not go so "off" as to no longer form an explosive mixture in air. You probably fouled the plugs last time you started the engine. Take them out, clean them up, try again.

0w/5w/10w - doesn't really matter in this situation. I'd be upping the running viscosity to a 50 or even 60.

GTS4 rears are different to GTSt (same as GT-R), fronts are the same across the range (GT-R / GTS4 / GTSt), I believe.

That's what he was talking about. A motor turns the mirrors in and out.

The belt tensioner mechanism is on the underside of the p/s pump. It helps if you remove the IC piping to get at the bolt. And loosen off the top securing bolt to allow the pump to pivot down so you can remove / refit the belt.

Have you considered that the water pump is dieing - the impeller fins corrode away from not running proper coolant mixtures.

Or you could try Maltech in Geelong. They have ADR approved braided lines (not sure if for the 34 though). http://www.maltech.com.au Postal Address: 125 Andersons Rd, Drysdale, VIC 3222 Phone: 0418 378 939 Fax: (03) 5251 1790 Email: [email protected]

One way to test it is to swap shocks L<->R, see if the situation changes. There's still the same weight on the spring. The reason the car becomes bouncy is that the shock absorber is unable to do its job, namely to control the motion of the spring.

The hose passes under the rear seat and up over the rear parcel shelf. When I had a problem with mine, the hose had broken on the parcel shelf area.

You shouldn't use the chassis rails - they are not designed to carry any weight, and will collapse. If you are talking about axle stands, then at the front you can place them under the lower control arms, at the rear place them under the rear crossmember mounting points.

Red one appears to be the only one with any wires connected, so I'd guess the red one.

And once it is heard, it is too late! There has to be a safer way to overcome the flatspot.

Hvae you had the injectors cleaned? If you disconnect the vac line from the fpr at idle, pressure should go UP, not DOWN. It's probably running too rich at idle - lean it off a bit (if you can - after all, you are using injectors that deliver twice what the standard injector delivers). Give it a bit of extra timing below idle rpm, eg if you have it set for 15 deg at 750 rpm idle, give it 17 at 500 and 19 at 400. Is the "fuel cut on overrun" working, ie does the EMS shut down the injectors when the throttle snaps shut (like during gear changes)?

Actually erderr, keep tyres pumped UP, or even UPPER, in the wet. It holds the tread open so it can shed water better. Back to the OP - what suspension do you have? If you have Japanese "coilovers", the suspension will be quite stiff. This does not allow good weight transfer on acceleration, and the drive wheels will lose traction in the wet. I had a 240Z with VERY stiff rear springs - in the wet, I could spin wheels DOWN Mt Jane (Calder).

Thanks for the comments. The guy clearly doesn't want to sell - both phone calls "rejected", and didn't respond to email - what a loser! Andrew, the Falcon is no fuel miser after you attach the trailer. I get around 400k to a tank (E10), yet when I picked the car up from my brother in Gundagai, I got over 600! Might look into upgrading to an EFI version engine.

Even with a wideband sensor, the gauge will still flicker, because that's the way O2 sensors work. Except when you are hard on the throttle - gauge should read full rich- or decell, when gauge will read ultra lean.

So the testers went to the expense of sending samples to a lab for a full chemical analysis? Yes, it will tend to go off over time. As long as there is some coolant treatment there, I wouldn't be too concerned. Worst case, change the coolant after you get the car home.

First of all, the Skyline is a sports car, not a luxury limousine. Therefore it should have a relatively firm ride quality. The springs are there to support the weight of the car, and the shock absorbers are there to control the action of the springs. (Without shock absorbers, the car will just wallow all over the place, like a Yank Tank). My experience has been that dead shocks will induce a severe harshness into the ride quality. To get what you want, I would suggest something like a KYB replacement shock absorber, with a set of Kings standard height springs. While this will firm up the ride a bit, it will not give the harshness that dead shocks can induce (and I'm guessing this is what you have atm).