blind_elk

And BOTH feet on the brake pedal!

Ordinarily you would only do the oil-pressure-build-up on a brand new built engine. The last thing you want is for your brand new engine to fire, and have absolutely no oil flowing and lubricating your brand new bearings. So you crank it over so you can see that oil pressure is happening. A few weeks for a previously working engine wouldn't be such a problem, and you would probably have oil pressure by the time the engine actually fires.

I've been having troubles with the XF Falcon (4.1L manual) that I use to tow my lawn mowing business trailer around. I've come across a possible R30 hatch, manual - which will replace the one stolen last April - and was wondering what others think about its capability to tow a trailer that will weigh around 1 Tonne fully laiden. Your thoughts appreciated.

Before you replace the battery, I would suggest you check that the voltage regulator - in the alternator - is functioning correctly (do a search for how to do that). Otherwise you risk stuffing another battery.

Before you start the engine, remove the spark plugs, then turn the engine on the starter motor and make sure you get oil pressure. Once you have oil pressure, it is safe to actually start the engine. The fuel will be fine for running the engine on low load, ie basically idle and low revs.

The connections tend to set with age. I find that grabbing the joint with a pair of vice grips and shocking the vicegrips usually works.

Have you checked / cleaned the air filter? Have you replaced the fuel filter?

Are you sending the bill to the inspector?

What does the manual say? I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter. But you could ask Wolf (www.wolfems.com).

Have you checked for +12V at the wire (use a multimeter)? The wiring is probably broken somewhere.

I would think that basically you don't have any rings left. (bent valves generally give zero compression).Time for a rebuild (or replacement).

All it tells you is that #1 coil is working.Have you checked the spark plugs in 1,3,5 cylinders? Have you checked that the injectors are working - maybe they need a good clean?

It shouldn't. At idle, the volume of gas passing the O2 sensor is very small, so the ECU should ignore any information it gets from the sensor.

With IGN = ON, you should have +12V on one side of the injector. The other side is switched to earth through the ECU.

How many frikken times do we have to answer this question???????????????????????????????????

Take the coil off #1 plug, and insert a conventional spark plug lead between the coil and the spark plug. Then check timing "old school".

Check the radiator cap. If the overflow bottle was full, the radiator should have pulled all the fluid back from the overflow as it cooled. A faulty cap would let air in past its seal, rather than pulling from the overflow.

I think it's related to the ATTESSA system - relay switches in and out to keep the stystem pressurised. It is happening all the time, just that other noises drown it out when you are driving.

If the pushrod at the master isn't adjusted correctly, it might not allow the pistons to back off correctly, and thus hold the pad against the rotor. I'm guessing that the pistons are easy enough to push back while you are changing pads.

Larger injectors will, obviously, deliver more fuel. At idle, there is virtually no load on the engine, and the fuel delivered by the ECU is only slightly more than is necessary. Even free-revving, there is very little load on the engine, so the additional fuel from the bigger injectors is able to be coped with by the engine. When you start driving, the load on the engine increases, and the ECU delivers more fuel. The bigger injectors deliver even more fuel, and the mixture becomes super rich and doesn't burn correctly. So you end up coating the plug electrodes in fuel, and the plugs don't spark efficiently.

If the regulator is stuffed, it will generally put out more voltage as the revs increase. So, with the engine running, measure volts across the battery terminals at idle, then bump the revs up to around 2k and measure again. If the voltage increases, then the reg is stuffed, and it will eventually kill the battery (battery will not be able to hold the charge supplied by the alternator).

Try just giving it a good clean out, then fit an oil / air separator (commonly referred to as a catch can). That should solve the problem.

You are risking pulling un-metered air - through the filter, across the rockers and down to the inlet side of the turbo - into the air/fuel mix, causing a leaner than expected A/F. And lean A/F is asking for detonation.

There's nothing wrong with that. The major problem is when you are on boost, and you feed oil mist from the rocker covers to the intake side of the turbo, then into the cylinders. Oil in the air/fuel mix significantly lowers the effective octane rating of the mix, and thus you risk detonation. When the engine is under vacuum, ie off boost, the effect of any oil vapour, entering via the PCV valve, on the effective octane rating is minimal, and thus the risk of detonation is extremely small.lachlanw, yes in Oz it is a requirement to have a working PCV system, same as it is a requirement to have a catalytic converter, and all the other anti-pollution equipment.

The "spade" is the trigger from the key (when you turn the key to START). The large cable - coming from the battery - is +ve power to the windings of the starter motor. The solenoid, activate by the "spade", connects +ve power from the big cable through the starter motor, and earths out thorugh the starter motor body to the engine block. When jumping, try connecting the -ve connection to the engine block of the car being jumped ie your GT-R. You can set up a relay that uses the "spade" as the switch to supply direct battery power to the starter solenoid.