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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    Its only a problem if you change the ratio. Its possible to change the centre (to LSD) and still keep the same gearset, thus retaining the ratio.
  2. blind_elk
    Have you tried jump starting it?
  3. blind_elk
    "New" or "another" ie second hand? (had a similar problem with my Pathfinder - got second hand starter, and it failed same way in four weeks!) Does it start easier once you get it started and the engine warms up? What is the battery voltage when the engine is running?
  4. blind_elk
    When I had a similar problem, turned out the starter motor was rooted. (I think I threw out a perfectly battery pack because it couldn't assist in starting the engine)
  5. blind_elk
    You need to get a NEW one. The igniters develop a habit of breaking down when they get hot, then work fine when they cool back down. Then again, 3500 "limit" is MAF problem, IIRC.
  6. blind_elk
    Was it a new igniter, or second hand?
  7. blind_elk
    AAC / IACV appear to be used interchangeably. According to my Workshop Manual, it is AAC, and the valve under the plenum is Air Regulator.
  8. blind_elk
    Air Reg / AAC problems have to be unrelated. AAC is powered by the ECU relay, and the ECU switches to earth thru pin 4.
  9. blind_elk
    Well, it appears that it is pretty much working correctly. Upon reflection, the symptoms you describe - poor cold start, poor hot idle - don't seem to mesh. I would start looking at dirty injectors. Try a big chunk of injector cleaner in your next tank of fuel. Have you confirmed that the fuel pressure is ok? Base ignition timing? Water temp sender?
  10. blind_elk
    test which terminal has continuity to earth = -ve Easiest to test if you remove it. Look through where the hoses fit. There should be a shutter, and it should be roughly half open at ambient temp. Then apply battery voltage across the terminals - the shutter should fully close (takes several minutes). Check resistance across the terminals - 70 - 80ohms at 20C
  11. blind_elk
    Air Regulator (cold start valve) is powered by the fuel pump relay.
  12. blind_elk
    FWIW, I'm running 32 GT-R brakes upfront on a 32 GTS4 under 17s
  13. blind_elk
    All solved. Reason everything suddenly stopped - I somehow unplugged the connector to the back of the hazard switch! Indicators work fine with a replacement flasher designed for LEDs - SY4018, $14.95 from Jaycar Electronics. (in the "auto" section, not the electronic parts section)
  14. blind_elk
    I think I found it - part# 25731 89960. Is this the flasher can? (Located just to the left of the steering column)
  15. blind_elk
    Well, I've solved one problem - when I arm / disarm the alarm, only the LH indicators flash. Found the (smashed) fuse, and replaced it. But now I have a bigger problem - NO indicators OR hazards! So I know the return circuits are ok, because the lights come on with the alarm arm /disarm. But because I have no hazards /indicators, I can't trace the relay sound.
  16. blind_elk
    I am sooooo glad Nissan make these cars so easy to work on and replace parts that break down. Pretty much pulled the entire instrument panel apart, cannot for the life of me locate the relay (can hear it, just can't find it!).
  17. blind_elk
    Yes, finally resolved myself to the need to modify the system. Only ever purchased units "guaranteed" not to hyperflash. Jaycar have flasher units, FYI. So, where is the flasher can in aR32? Anyone know where the can is in a N16 Pulsar (1.8DE)?
  18. blind_elk
    Further to my problem, I have done the same to my N16Pulsar. I got some "canbus" LEDs, fitted one to the front left, and everything works fine. So then replaced the right side, and it hyper flashes! WTF! Anyone got an explanation?
  19. blind_elk
    Do the hazard warning lights work? Have you checked / replaced the globe?
  20. blind_elk
    No, I think it said that the featured car was one of the 100 imported by Nissan Australia.
  21. blind_elk
    https://www.whichcar.com.au/episodes/season-2/behind-the-scenes-nissan-gt-r-anniversary
  22. blind_elk
    I´ve often had this problem, it turned out to be a problem in the wires to the back of the front indicator assembly.
  23. blind_elk
    I'm running 100W in the high beams, have done for a number of years with no problems. AFAIK, there is only a 55W option for the low beam.
  24. blind_elk
    Shouldn't need marks or anything. All you need to do is make sure the bleed nipple is at the top / highest point.
  25. blind_elk
    Worst thing for fuel economy in a GT-R is the enormous lump of lead at the end of your right leg. Lighten it off a bit. No need to be red-lining from every set of traffic lights.
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