blind_elk

Need a RHS LCA and both front indicators (the clear ones with an orange reflector). In Melbourne.

Maybe not the best shocker, but there are worse around - Monroe, Pedders.

Ordinarily, the bolts for an auto flywheel are too short to use with a manual flywheel. So, what bolts did you get to fix the new manual flywheel to the crank?

Maybe it's just the tacho is reading a bit high.

No insurance!!! They took EVERYTHING - except the ladder and a couple of occy straps! Even all the ancilliary shit that was in a pod on the side (weed killer concentrate, gloves, back-pack sprayer, small tools, a D-shackle for the safety chain!).

Well, you can stop looking for the trailer. Some guy just called me to advise it's sitting outside his house - in Melton! If you hear about a cheap Honda 4-stroke self-propelled mower, or a Shindaiwa trimmer going cheap, let the police know.

Last night, some pathetic excuse for a human being has stolen my trailer of lawn mowing equipment from out front of my home. The trailer is a cage type, painted blue, fully sign-written - "Grey Army - Werribee" - and my contact details, and contained all the gear - mowers, trimmers, etc - that I use. Stolen from Tarneit. Anyone spots it, contact Wyndham North police.

because the key is what causes the CAS to be correctly aligned! There is a semi-circular hole in the end of the CAS shaft, and a semi-circular protrusion on the end of the EX cam (well, there's supposed to be). The protrusion on the cam is supposed to fit into the hole in the shaft end. It serves two purposes - make sure the cas is in the correct position relative to the crankshaft (#1 piston), and it also helps drive the CAS. That protrusion is prone to breaking off, causing the problem you now have (incorrect CAS alignment).

yes it does Then clearly the matching key inside the EX cam has broken. If the key was still there, then you could only mount the CAS in 1 position. (I don't know how many times that point has been made in previous threads!)

Both turbos are outputting to all 6 cylinders, because the inlet plenum spans all 6 inlet ports. They are each driven by 3 cylinders, which makes it easier to spool up to their maximum boost.

if the fusable link goes, engine might crank, but won't run. I don't think it's got anything to do with your current problem.

As mad082 has said, the function of the cas is to tell the ecu where each piston is in the cycle. The ecu then uses inputs from other sensors to calculate when to fire the spark. So, no, it can't be used as a standalone ignition system if it is using only the cas as an input.

Brake problem = service calipers (??)

eucalyptus oil

The RED battery light means there's a problem with the battery / charge circuit. The alternator is probably frizzed. The battery might last longer if you turned the frikken fog lights off (they're for foggy conditions, hence the name). If you don't know how to test the alternator, try a search.

Basically, the alternator can only just keep up with the demand for current. When you turn on the indicator, it's the "straw to break the camels back", and the indicators "steal" a bit of current from all the other electrical items. You might need to upgrade the power of your alternator.

Not from mine. Otherwise why would I be asking.

The inlet tract - from turbos to throttle body - is a single unit. Pressure created within the tract is distributed equally through the tract (as per standard laws of physics and fluid dynamics). So the boost created within the tract cannot exceed the boost created by the lowest boosting turbo.

Hey Paul, how do you shrink them like that?

there is a "valet mode" lever, beside the catch in the boot. you might have a accidently activated it when you put something in the boot.

Maybe you have blown the fusable link that hangs off the +ve terminal.

Famous last words! So many drivers - p-platers and fully licenced alike - have uttered those immortal words, just before they wrote themselves, their passengers, or another motorist, out.

Fairly certain that if the light is on, then the HICAS is disabled (because there is a problem with it).

never had a problem with plat / iri plugs, except for a recent intermittent misfire that fouled one. turned out to be a faulty (splitfire) coil, but i fitted a set of coppers while diagnosing the problem.

what bloody heat range were they (other than "cloder than previous")???????? moreover, which actual model of plug were they?