blind_elk

Actually, have you measured the guards? From top of guard to top of wheel arch.

Did the master and booster come as 1 unit? If they are anything like the old Zs, there is a rubber block between the pushrod of the master and the booster - lose that, and you end up with symptoms of improperly bled brakes. And you bled the master first?

If the rear bar is pre-loaded, you wind up with a "table with one leg shorter than the other 3". And we all know how stable that setup is.

So what was the heat range of the last set of plugs you fitted? What mods do you have that might affect the heat range requirement of the plugs? If they are fouling, maybe the injectors are delivering too much fuel. Or maybe the timing is inappropriate to support any mods you have.

They are going to be hidden deep inside the wheel, so you will never see them, except when you take the wheels off. What difference does it make what they look like?

Do you have a copy of the "old" tune? Then re-install those maps. Or the previous tuner should have a copy. The economy - check "closed loop" has been turned on. Driving / performance - maybe it's simply psychological, the number is lower so you expect the performance to be down as well.

yes, believe it to be the gearbox vent hose. the water leak is most likely from the welsh plug in the back of the head.

Those figures are based on the recommended oil from Nissan. And the 5W / 10W figures are irrelevant to this - they are cold start viscosities. Different oils behave differently when warm, under shear. It's not unlikely that 2 supposedly identical oils (both 40s) should give different pressure readings under the same engine conditions.

wiper motor is under the scuttle panel (where the wipers sit). It might be that the nut securing the wiper arms to the motor has come undone.

The dash lights are a warning that something is wrong, not a confirmation that everything is working. That's why they are RED.

The car got hit today at DECA - side-on RHS, punched in between door / rear wheel arch, front corner (indicator mashed), front bar pushed 1" towards passenger side, and something totally knackered in the suspension (now has 3" toe-in!). So, need a good repairer, preferably in Werribee / West area, but will consider other locations. But they have to come to the car to inspect / quote, since it's basically undriveable (luckily was able to get it trailered home). TIA.

The oil light is of the "Oh SHIT!!!!" type. If it comes on, then you have no oil pressure, and that is NOT good for the engine.. One way to avoid it is to not brake so heavily that it comes on. One other method is to change the oil.

Try: Trackside Tyres 161 Canterbury Rd Kilsyth 9761 5557

My R32 does that.

ADRs state that indicators must be AMBER (orange) light. Brakes are RED. Could be confusing for following drivers if a red light starts flashing at them.

With all those things moving around inside the engine, I wouldn't be the least bit surprised that the whole thing might vibrate a bit at idle.

Possibility that the wire from the sender has been pinched and is grounding somewhere (sender is a variable resistance to earth). Maybe the float for the sender (in the fuel tank) is broken. You can move the needle on its spindle. Manually move the needle to point to, say, 60, then lock the rear wheel in place and GENTLY rotate the needle on its spindle back to 50.

Just had a thought - will the standard GTS4 master cylinder match ok with the GT-R caliper pistons? Will I need to upgrade the master cylinder as well?

What pads are you using? Are your rotors upgraded to slotted? Are you using braided brake lines? When was the last time you changed the brake fluid? Any or all of these will improve the braking performance before you need to think about changing the hardware. If you still want to upgrade the hardware, the R33 GTSt is the same as the (early) R32 GT-R (296mm rotor), late R32 / R33 / R34 GT-Rs are 324mm rotors. The 324mm rotors are thicker than R32 GTS2 280mm rotors (30mm vs 28mm), so the caliper might not be able to fit over the larger disk (short of machining half the pad away). The simplest method would be the get the rotors and the matching calipers, rather than try to use adapters. They all use the same DB1170 pad.

I use some scraps of 2" thick pine - drive the car (front or rear, works for both ends) up onto the block, then you have enough clearance to get a trolley jack under. I use the cross member for the front, and the diff for the rear. Generally, ramps are too steep to allow the front bar to clear the ramps. For an oil change, jack the car, then use axle stands under the LCA, then remove the jack (because it gets in the way of the oil draining into the catch tub).

Ok, just returned from doing a trial fit of the calipers. They are a Sumitomo alloy caliper. When mounted on my 32, the bottom edge of the pad is about 8mm above the current swept area of the rotor. By my reckoning, that would mean they cover an extra 16mm of rotor, which means 296mm R32 GT-R.

And I repeat my original reply - it depends on a whole bunch of variables.

As long as you can pull the thrust bearing away from the clutch plate, it should be OK. That means that there is no pre-load on the thrust bearing and pressure plate.

There might be a hole or something that is letting light from a panel light "leak" into the oil pressure light socket.

There's no "normal" oil pressure. It will vary depending on the type of oil, the viscosity rating of the oil, how the viscosity of the oil changes under shear, how the viscosity of the oil changes with temperature.