blind_elk

I have a Garmin GPS navigator. It warns me of school zones and fixed speed cameras, and advises me of the prevailing speed limit. It has some strange things going on, though. For example: It warns me about (fixed) speed cameras that don't exist. It has several different modes of operation in regard to school zones: warning, warning + speed limit change, speed limit change with no warning. It warns me about school zones that are not signposted as school zones, and sometimes doesn't warn me at all about school zones that are signposted. It advises the incorrect speed limit of some roads. It advises incorrect speed limits on odd sections of the same road. There is a section of the Western Ring Road (Melbourne) that the Garmin insists is 90k speed limit (it's definitely 100kph), and then warns me of a (non-existant) 100kph fixed camera - WTF! Just wondering if this was someting peculiar to the Garmin units, or is it a problem with units that use Whereis maps.

I would argue that the car you can drive is related to the level of licence that you hold, not to the road rules.Every driver - L, P, full licence - is required to drive within the speed limits. That's the effect of the road rules. In Victoria (among others), only P-platers are banned from driving "high performance vehicles"; even Ls can drive a Skyline or other high performance vehicle. So, if WA doesn't have a power restriction like Vic has, then a driver with a WA licence, even if P-plater, can drive a "high performance vehicle" in states where the locals are restricted.

I run Bendix on mine, and have never had any sort of problem with brake squeal. Were the pads bedded in correctly?

It's a sports car - it should have firm suspension. And a decent set of firm shocks will provide a better, more comfortable ride than a soft set of crap shocks. KYB will be the best value for money in the "cheap / inexpensive" range. Otherwise you are up in the Bilstein / Koni area for good components. IMO, steer clear of Pedders / Monroe shocks. Talk to the guys at Traction Tyres in Rowville.

Pretty sure idle is set with the screw in the AAC. DO NOT use the throttle-stop screw (there's a reason it has a dollop of epoxy locking it in place).

They are citing the new north-south pipeline and the F*****N extremely environmentally unfriendly desalination plant as the driving forces to allow the easing of restrictions.As for me, I wash my car with a hose, water my garden, and water my lawn whenever I want - from my rainwater tank.

My 32 GTS4, D on driver side. But why don't you just try them. If they don't look right, try the other side.

I think it affects what's called the "scrub radius" - ask the guys at Pedders about it. Or read about it here: http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm#Scrub%20Radius

Wear down the centre is generally a sign of over-inflation of the tyres. Don't think a -4 offset (considering standard is about +35) would be helping things at all.

Have you checked the cold start air valve (on the underside of the inlet plenum)?

Why not just ONE posting of the question?????????????

What was the wear pattern like? - inner edge, outer edge, centre? What are your alignment settings? And when did you last have an alignment?

So, does that mean your speedo is ok?

For reference, I had my GTS4 on a 2WD dyno, basically stock apart from a slightly bigger turbo still running stock boost - 145kW. Also, the figure you get out of a dyno will vary depending on how the dyno was calibrated, and how recently it was calibrated. Take it to another dyno, and you may well get a different figure. And it will vary with the prevailing weather conditions - you may not get as much power on a dry 35C day as you will on a damp 25C day.

You should be able to see where the half moon has snapped off from. It will have left a rough surface inside the cam (the rest if that area is generally smooth).

I've got a Garmin navigator, and I also have a Garmin E-trex (I call it my "fekawi meter"). If you want to call round to my place sometime, I can let you check your speedo against the E-trex. The other thing to do is use the advisory radar speed checks - there's one Melbourne-bound from Geelong on the Princes Fwy, and one at Beveridge northbound. I find the Garmin agrees with these advisorys, and my speedo reads about 2kph under @ 100.

Can help you out with the IC (stock sidemount), but not the pipework.

You might be lucky, and it's your dad's speedo that is out (reading high). I'm surprised you don't have a GPS.

Maybe your pedal box is broken, like http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fy...Ge-t332290.html

You've got fluid in the clutch reservoir? (yes, stupid question, I know, but I know a case of someone whose car stopped, and he swore it had fuel in the tank, which it didn't!). Is the clutch pedal sitting at the correct height when the pedal is up (should be close to the same height as the brake pedal)?

Duncan, I think the problem luxing is having is whether or not the output shafts will fit into the appropriate location in the diff centre, ie is the shaft of a GTSt the right diameter, length and spline configuration to mesh with the diff centre. And I don't know that, which is why I suggested to just swap the gears themselves. (If I had done the whole assembly swap with my Stagea diff into the R32, I probably would have lost any LSD function, because it seemed that the Stagea had an open rear diff) GTS4 is 35:8 = 4.375.GTSt is 4.363? That would make it 48:11.

That ratio is from a Stagea (= 4.083:1). GT-R is 9 (pinion) and 37 (crown wheel). Get a replacement diff (GT-R, GTSt, Stagea, doesn't really matter), and swap the crown wheel onto your existing centre, and the pinion into your existing housing. That way, input and output bits will still match up. If you get a differential specialist to do it, they can set up the backlash correctly at the same time. BTW, the ratio is generally stamped somewhere on the crown wheel ("teeth on c/w" : "teeth on pinion") - saves a heap of tooth counting!

You need to remove both front driveshafts, then remove the front cover. With the LH driveshaft, you undo the flange joint adjacent to the sump, then undo the flange on the sump and pull the shaft outwards (not necessarioy "out"). The diff unit will then basically fall out of the housing.

The sensor in the bottom of the radiator is an overheat sensor for the A/C - it turns opn the thermo fan in front of the A/C radiator. Not absolutely necessary.

Bullitt's Mustang http://www.hottr6.com/triumph/bulimages/columbus.jpg http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/b...rninrubber4.jpg http://www.hottr6.com/triumph/bulimages/smokin.jpg