blind_elk

Turns out I know John, so I'm sure he would do me or my brother a good deal. As it turns out, my brother saw the car and thought "tell him he's dreaming"!

Tell them you have a R31.

Some "come to you" injector cleaning vans are able to clean the injectors while still fitted to the engine (LubeMobile, I think, is one of them).

They go a lot better with a RB25DET (ex Stagea).

Of course its bad for the bloody car! How to fix? Don't "smash 1st to 2nd"! Pump the tyres back up (for general road holding). And stiff suspension won't be helping at all (you don't get proper weight transfer onto the rear wheels).

Have you checked all the intercooler pipework?

Is the HICAS warning light working (should be ON just before START)?

I run 36 in my 235/45x17s. The bigger the tyre diameter and the lower the profile, the more pressure you need to run. So, I would recommend at least 38, maybe even 40.

If you have disconnected the actuator from the gate itself, the gate should just flop all over the place. Sounds like your new one has a seized gate.

I can help you out with a spare module. Have you done the test to see which coil is misfiring?

Maybe the switch is kaput. Test it with a multimeter.

Hook it up as Panko described (you can get a short spark lead when you get the timing light).You read the timing on the crank pulley (big one down the bottom of the front of the engine). There is a set of 7 marks at 5 deg increments, which move from driver side to passenger side (L->R as you stand looking into the engine bay). The last mark (left-most) is TDC (Top Dead Centre). Each time the coil fires on the #1 cylinder, the timing light will flash its light. The flash will "stop" the crank pulley so you can read which mark is aligned with the pointer located on the crank case cover. You want 15 deg BTDC (Before TDC), which should be the 4th mark (from either end).

There's a bit of info in "How to Make Your Car Handle", by Fred Puhn (available at Pitstop Bookshop - http://www.pitstop.net.au/view/technical-c.../query/plu/1734). The front roll centre of the GT-R will be fairly easy to calculate, not so sure about the rear. From the book:

Get a leakdown test done on the engine - that will at least tell you where the lack of compression is.

Flushing the radiator in this manner is juat a total waste of time. The radiator got blocked trying to push the crap from top to bottom, and the crap got stuck. How is pushing it in the same direction supposed to clear it?You need to reverse flush the radiator - better if you take it to a radiator place to have it done properly.

Why do you think you need to be running that low in the rev range? Nissan will have set the tune of the engine to be optimised with the gearing of the car. Changing the diff ratios will upset that balance.

Air pressure is coming from the plenum through the inlet valves into the cylinder, and out into the rocker covers through the valve stems and valve stem seals. Maybe the ex valves aren't closed at the particular postion the engine is at, or the they aren't sealing properly. Or it could be blowing by the rings into the sump and up into the rocker covers. Try rotating the engine a bit so that a different cylinder has its inlet valves open, then check again.

The nozzles shut off in reaction to back-pressure - change the "angle of the dangle" to change the way back-pressure builds up. Some nozzles seem more sensitive than others - try a different pump.

The single-pin plug is usually the one for the gauge, the 2-pin is for the ECU. You generally need both.

Not at all. The piece marked "PVC line" is the pipe back down to the turbo intake.Basically all that has happenbed that a can has been inserted between the LHS rocker cover and the turbo intake.

My experience is that it should go out immediately the fluid level is ok. Start checking that the handbrake switch isn't shorting to earth.

Tap it off the FPR actuator hose. That will give you boost pressure in the manifold (at the back of the valves).

If it's the same as the R32, then it means that your brake fkuid level is low. (it's also the handbrake light)

Possible causes: 1. Blocked radiator. 2. Stuffed water pump. 3. Stuffed thermostat.

Contact the Vic Tennants Union - 9416 2577. They will be able to tell you if the fee is legal, and if so who is responsible for paying it.