blind_elk

You probably have a problem with CASTER, rather than CAMBER. Maybe even TOE (toe out). Go see a wheel alignment shop and get them to check all the alignment settings, then you can figure out where the problem lies.

Unlike older style bulbs, the filaments in halogen bulbs can blow and still look ok. You need to check with a multimeter, or connect them straight across the battery to check if they or still ok.

Yes, pin 28 is a +ve supply, 30 is an internal earth. Measure the resistance across the pins of the sensor - approx 2.5kohm at 20C, 0.3 kohm at 80C

Well, according to the Bendix catalogue (http://bendix.com.au/catalogue/9520#variant), the pad is 120 x 74 x 14

The PCV valve in the plenum only opens under high vacuum, positive pressure jams it shut. The PCV valve is basically only open during "closed throttle", and the minimal amount of oil vapour that might be ingested isn't a problem for the engine. The problem is when oil fumes are taken from the rocker covers and circulated back through the inlet side of the turbo. The oil (vapour) mixing with the fuel and air severely lowers the effective octane rating of the "fuel", which can cause the mixture to detonate. It won't detonate at effectively idle (throttle closed). The catch can is designed to condense the vapours so they don't reach the inlet side of the turbo.

Have you got contact details?

Are they aimed correctly?

RB25DET, from a Stagea, Stagea differential gears GT-R rear wing Copy GT-R front bar Bilstein shocks with Kings lowered springs

You must be doing something wrong. A HKS gear should fit a stock cam, and a stock cam gear should fit a Tomei cam. Therefore a HKS cam gear should fit a Tomei cam.

It's supposed to be a "closed" system. The first option is open to atmosphere, which contributes to the "almost stalling" you encountered.The second option is the way I have installed mine. But unblock the PCV hose (between valley and plenum).

All good then.

Anyone know of / recommend a good mechanic who can do a pre-sale inspection on a Magna for my brother. In the general vicinity of Frankston. TIA.

Ten-four, Ten Four.Ended up paying a few $$ extra and fitted Falken 912s (replacing Falken 326s)

In an oversteer kid, firstly apply opposite lock (turn the steering wheel in the direction of the skid), and I usually will at least back off, if not try and power out. Never brake - the tail is already moving in that direction, and braking will only exaggerate the problem, and you will likely spin out. In an understeer skid you brake, to transfer weight onto the front wheels and re-establish grip. Although, with experience, a GT-R / GTS4 will respond to throttle and the front wheels will pull you out of the skid. This is what works for me (with 40 years experience, including track / rally experience). An advanced driving course (not simply a defensive driving course) may teach you something slightly different. And if you don't have any bloody tread on the tyres, then of course you are going to lose traction on a wet road!

I heard of a similar story years ago with a Patrol. Long story short, there was a piece of plastic floating around in the fuel tank. Every now and then it would block the fuel pickup. After stopping the engine, the plastic would float away and everything would be OK until the next time. As Dennis suggested, you might need to give the tank a really good flush. Can't see the CAS stopping the pump, though.

The problem won't be related to the (over)size of the pistons, I see more of a problem running that much boost at that C/R.

I got mine from my local Pirtek store.

There is a "valet switch" built into the lock mechanism, that prevents the remote cable from unlocking the boot.

What sort of air filter are you running?

Thanks for the feedback, guys. They'll be going on the R32 GTS4 - 235/45x17s. As you can see from the panel at left, I've done the RB25 upgrade, so there is a bit more punch than your ordinary GTS4. If they're a bit sus in the wet, maybe better to spend a few more $$$ for brand-name.

These are supposed to be a "made by Bridgestone" tyre. That being the case, I would be happy to try them. Anyone used these things, and has comments (good or bad). Tx

If the induction noise is too loud, why not do something about quietening it, like enclosing it in an air box.

I'm not aware of any speed limit that changes from 100 to 60 in 1 hit. They usually slow you to 80 or 70 first before 60. Anyway, you should have been slowing down as soon as you saw the 60 sign, which should be well before you got close to it.

Waste of time - and MONEY! And it will eventually destroy the engine with all the excess fuel diluting the oil.

Why not check / ask on the Wolf website?