blind_elk

How do you know? Are you sure you put the fuel lines back on correctly - check by removing the return line from the pressure regulator while priming the pump.

Then you haven't heard this one:http://www.couriermail.com.au/news/queensl...f-1225890936050

My L-18 engine says 2.2 kg-m. I think the RB series is similar.

There should be a couple of threaded holes that take a 6mm bolt (10mm head) that you use to push the rotor hat away from the hub. Also, try a bit of WD40 or similar around the hub centre to free up the rotor.

The cable should have a bit of slack - it makes sure the throttle fully closes when you take your foot off the pedal.

VFT! (14.5 - 15.5 kg-m)

5 metres!!!!! WTF!!!! I think you mean MILLImetres (or maybe CENTImetres). Thats what the adjusting fitting is for - to take up any slack due to cable stretch.

Theoretically, every suspension combo for a R33 is a "coilover"? If you have windy roads, you want swaybars for handling. So you can afford to run slightly softer suspension. The best is going to be Bilsteins or Koni in the shock department, but at $1000 per end puts it outside your budget. If you can, maybe some KYB shocks with a Kings low spring and upgraded swaybars would seem appropriate (although that total combo is likely to be outside your budget as well).

Might be stupid question, but how does anyone tell that you are driving on one of these SHOs? And how can they know if you are driving within the conditions of the SHO so they know whether or not to pull you over to check?Too many people keep getting caught and being charged with "driving while disqualified". SHO seems to half defeat the purpose of being punished for breaking the law. Solution would be to find someone willing to play chauffeur for the period of your disqualification. Or move closer to public transport.

It's only a problem when the rears are SMALLER than the fronts - that combo tricks the ECU into thinking that the rears are slipping.

Or you could move the fronts to the back and put the new tyres on the front.

Fitting a narrower tyre on a rim will affect the rolling diameter in 2 ways: 1 - narrower tyre has a smaller sidewall height, therefore smaller overall diameter. 2 - stretching a tyre onto a rim will further decrease the rolling diameter.

Not sure if there's a separate fuse, but, like all cars, there is a switch in the gearbox. Have you checked that it is still working?

Sent 29 June. Didn't have a surname, so just addressed to "Dennis" @ your PO box. Hasn't been sent back to me as yet (because undeliverable or whatever). The units are complete with all the plugs.

Those won't help. Those will probably make it worse. Stiffening the front end will only increase the understeer characteristics.

My R32 has a separate switch, just near the main light switch, that can turn the parkers on (presumably it's for when fog lights are fitted). R34 doesn't have a similar switch, does it?

Why are you running a "race" plug? It's probably fouling because it is way too "cold". Just use a "normal" NGK plug - you probably need to go a bit "colder" from standard in the heat range. Something like a BCPR7ES, and open the gap up a bit, say 1mm.

You don't need a swaybar for a drag application. The bar works to alter the lateral transfer of weight during cornering - it does nothing while the car is essentially moving in a straight line.

You could try Quadrant Suspension in Berwick - for Bilstein shocks valved to suit Aussie roads (Jap stuff is far too stiff for Australian conditions).

Have you worked out which coil is misfiring? Is it a S1 or S2 RB25? If it's a S1, then it could be a failing ignitor module.

It opens in response to pressure. You can tap the throttle as much as you like - it shouldn't open

Did you bleed the master cylinder (needs to be bled first, b4 each wheel)? Did you bleed the ABS unit (should have bleed nipples on top)?

Maybe the belt pooped itself.

What happens if drop the boost a bit - say 10psi?

Have you checked fuel pressure? If the regulator is stuffed, then you will be getting too much fuel delivered at all times. The problem with the ignition lights sounds like an unrelated problem confined to the ignition switch.