blind_elk

Wide Open Throttle

Well, according to the workshop manual, difficulty warm / hot starting could be related to the (ECU) temp sensor. Try disconnecting the sensor, see if it makes any difference. Check the resistance of the sensor. Check its output voltage. Can also be a fuel pressure problem. Try clamping off the fuel return line, see what happens.

If you can smell fuel in the cylinder, then you have probably flooded the engine. Try starting the engine with WOT until it fires.

Is this a "hot start" issue, or a "cold start" issue, or both? If the engine isn't getting up to normal temp, and also takes a long time to get up to temp (approx 5 minutes gentle driving should see the engine at normal temp), then it is possible the thermostat is jammed part open, and needs replacing. To test the gauge is working correctly, set the key to IGN, disconnect the wire onto the (single-pin) temp sensor, and ground it out on the engine - the gauge should go full-scale if it is working correctly. NOTHING TO DO WITH THE O2 SENSOR! It only works for cruise conditions.

On all GT-R RB26s, on the exhaust stroke, exhaust valve is actually closed at TDC, and inlet valve is just starting to open. So if you are at TDC ex, then pressure will be released through the inlet only.

Are you still using the 32's ignitor setup?

7.5?????? Should be something like 205/35R18

Yes, if a particular cylinder is at TDC on the exhaust stroke, then air pressure will be leaking out the inlet valve as well (except perhaps R32 GT-R, which doesn't have any valve overlap). The following pairs will be at TDC together, one on compression, one on exhaust: 1,6 2,5 3,4

Well, a locked car didn't prevent some PoS stealing my R30. And a locked car and a full alarm / immobiliser didn't prevent some other PoS trying to steal my R32 (destroyed the ignition lock, but didn't get the car). What a load of cop out for a pathetic court system that fails to actually punish such anti-social behaviour as stealing / damaging other people's property.

Then the regulator is stuffed. Try swapping the regulator from your 20.

I don't believe there is one. There is a starter solenoid that sits on top of the starter motor, but no relay as such. If you are having a problem getting the solenoid to engage properly, you can install a relay. Use the wire that currently triggers the solenoid to switch the relay so it sends full battery power to the solenoid.

Seems to be not much wrong at all with those numbers. As the oil heats up, it gets thinner and doesn't need as much pressure to pump it around the engine. As the engine revs, it pumps more oil in a given time, and produces more pressure (resistance to flow). And you shouldn't use anything much heavier than 10/40 oil.

This won't help. The injectors are designed to run a 3litre engine, not a 2.4 litre engine. They will probably be overfuelling the engine to buggery - no wonder it drinks petrol.

Check the fluid level in the reservoir in the boot.

My 32 works like that, but that's because I made it that way - just to make sure that anyone following at night knows that I have applied the brakes. I simply cut the wires going to the tail light on the inner set. So, check that's what has happened to yours.

It's a 4.111:1 ratio. That's the GT-R ratio, but I thought they ran mechanical LSD ( your pic is a Viscous LSD, I believe). R200 means the crown wheel is 200mm diameter. R180 means the crown wheel is only 180mm diameter (R180 can still be an LSD). To answer the OP, yes, it should fit in your R32 (presuming GTSt) - just remember to transfer the pinion as well if you are transferring the internals only (not a problem if you just swap the whole differential).

Probably because it's made by Mitsubishi Electric, as distinct from Mitsubishi Motors.(There are numerous "Mitsubishi" companies in Japan, from when the original Mitsubishi conglomerate was broken up by the US following WWII. They all use the three diamonds logo - Mitsubishi literally means "3 diamonds")

Cold chisel, bash a straight screw slot in the head, unscrew. Or you might need to drift it with a pin punch. But you definitely don't need to drill it out.

I can probably help you out. I'm in Tarneit, got ramps, oil trays, lots of tools.

It's probably not coming apart because, as you said, it's VERY DIRTY. Try spraying some cleaner - Car-b-clean, etc - in there to free it up.

Undo the 2 screws holding the cylinder on the RHS of the picture. CAREFULLY remove the cylinder - CAREFULLY because the spring will shoot everything inside across the garage!

Pretty certain RB20DET doesn't have a fuel cut. Only limiters built into the R32 GTSt is a rev limiter (around 7500), and a speed limiter (180kph). So, how many revs are you pulling when you have 12psi and the "limiter" cuts in? It could be running high boost for a number of reasons, like a leak in the wastegate actuator hose, or the wastegate isn't opening correctly.

Speed Technology in Mitcham. Or look in the Yellow Pages, under Fuel Injection, for mobile cleaners. I think I used one called "Splintex".

All the CAS does is tell the ECU where TDC is for each cylinder, and where each degree of crank rotation is. So, basically, a CAS is a CAS. If you don't want to run VCT, simply leave the electrical connection off the VCT solenoid.

try GUYS Yes