blind_elk

Sedan or hatch? I've just got mine going again (hatch) after fixing a broken valve. It was without a battery for several weeks, but fired up and ran fine when it was all back together. In Skylines, poor idle is quite often related to the IACV valve being dirty, could be the same in the Pulsar.

Thanks guys. Ended up doing it myself (Pulsar really isn't worth the expense of professionals).

What about dirty injectors? How would a big dose of injector cleaner go?

Just removed the head from my Pulsar, due to ZERO compression in #4. Found a sliver missing from the edge of one of the exhaust valves. Anyone have experience with Hoppers Heads, or can recommend any other cylinder head repair.

I may be wrong, but I think that is set at about 12.5 BTDC Wide / thick mark is TDC. Pulley is rotating from left to right.

Does everything else work? Lights, audio? Is it only starting that is the problem? If so, it could actually be the starter motor.

A bottle of metho in a full tank will help dissolve any residual water into the petrol. You'll probably end up running E1 (1% ethanol) which shouldn't hurt anything.

Are you running the standard igniter? As they get older they become prone to misbehave when they get hot .

Had a similar problem on my 32. Try checking the wiring connection to the (front?) indicator assemblies. It might need re-jigging.

You didn't go and "clean" the throttle body, did you?

I have been converting my 32 to as many LED globes as will fit. I purchased some amber LEDs for the rear indicators (BA15S, 1156), but they caused to indicators to rapid flash (like when a globe somewhere is blown). I then purchased some advertised as CANBUS-compatible, but they also rapid flash. Is there a way to confirm if the LED is in fact CANBUS-compatible (construction, watts, multimeter, etc)?

#3 sparker should be covered in fuel if the injector is working. If the coil is working, then you have a wiring problem with #3 injector.

When you say "swapped the coils", do you mean "new set", or swapped #3 coil with a coil from another cylinder? The injector is "squirting"? Only thing left is the igniter. Or a broken wire on #3 coil loom.

Bit from left field, but does the Power FC have programmable coil dwell. If set too high it will burn out the coils (personal experience). My Wolf is set between 0.5 and 1.2 ms

And the wheels will probably stick out a mile.

If you are having to apply lots of pedal force, try servicing the calipers.

There's only .5mm increase in lift - can't see that being a problem. I'd suggest the RB20DET cam - same Lobe Centre Angle (Pre-set Valve Timing), slightly more lift and slightly longer duration (might be a useful thing for the big-arse hairdryer there)

Apologies for getting into this thread so late. Firstly, would everyone please stop referring to this device as a "catch can", it is an "oil-air separator". Secondly, the apparent installation is a bit iffy. Surely a simpler method: 1. Remove hose running from Ex rocker cover down to the turbo. 2. Leave hose connecting In rocker cover to Ex rocker cover 3. New hose from Ex rocker to Separator 4. New hose from Separator to turbo. 5. Stuff steel wool in Separator to act as a "seed" for the oil vapour to condense onto. No need for a third connection on the separator - block it off. Simplesness

Have you considered contacting Gibson Motorsport in Melbourne?

The Whiteline and Nolathane bushes are 2 totally different animals. The Nolathane units replace the factory bushes that locate the subframe to the chassis. The Whiteline are the "pineapples" you'll see referred to in many posts.

Which engine? 20 / 25 / 26? For a stock engine, plugs should be heat range 5 or 6, gapped @ 1.0 - 1.1 .

That was useful. Thanks, diff finally out. Now all I need to do is get the frikken shells out. This is what came out (+ shells still in pinion bush) This is what will be going in: I think the necessity of the task speaks for itself. I would like to replace the bushes that support the rear of the diff. Can it be done by dropping the cradle, but leave the diff in place?

Ok, I give up for now. Its like the diff isn't tilting down enough to slide under the pinion mount frame. But I have to get it out now because the existing bushes came out in several pieces, with the shell still stuck in place. Can someone email me the appropriate page from the manual so I can see how it all fits together. ([email protected])

I'm trying to remove the diff in my R32 GTS4 to replace the pinion mount bushes (seems like a good idea, as the existing bushes basically fell apart!). I did it about 10 years ago, and it seemed to work, but now I can't seem to get the diff to move forward enough to disengage the cradle (rear) mount. Also, I need to disconnect the ABS sensors, but can't work out how - twist?, pull?, ? And, while trying to figure all this out, I found a wire and bolt floating above the diff - what did I miss when I last did this?

Thanks for calling a truce! It is a S1 Stagea engine (probably equivalent to a S2 GTSt engine). Has VVT. Has been rebuilt with forged pistons. Think I'll save some coin and not do anything to it ?