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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    www.ndsoc.com.au
  2. blind_elk
    AFAIK, the factory setup is as I described previously. Some people have altered the setup to have a hi/lo setup in addition to the eyeball hi-beam. Maybe a previous owner has grabbed the wire from the high beam (eyeball) light to power the hi bit of the hi/lo setup. Do you have wires to the eyeballs? Alternately, are the globes all ok?
  3. blind_elk
    In the photo, working from L->R: indicator - park - low beam - high beam. To get high beam to work, you push the indicator stalk forward. If you pull the indicator stalk towards you, you get "high beam flash" / "overtake". (When you switch to high beam, the low beams turn off.)
  4. blind_elk
    The high oil pressure isn't blowing out the dipstick. That results from blow-by (compressed gasses getting past the rings and pressurising the sump). The high oil pressure is probably from the grade of oil you are using - what oil are you using?
  5. blind_elk
    My bad (partly). My R30 does, my R32 doesn't.
  6. blind_elk
    A "few" ? There's hundreds!
  7. blind_elk
    Forget about the wideband until you actually get the engienrunning - O2 is ignored until constant throttle (cruise) conditions). RBs like LOTS of ignition timing to start - in the order of 40 degrees.
  8. blind_elk
    Leave wasps alone. They get very narky when you disturb their nest or spray insect spray in their general direction - particularly European wasps. Unlike bees, they can sting multiple times (they don't lose their stinger).
  9. blind_elk
    You don't need to block anything off. The connection on the passenger-side rocker gets diverted to the catch can and the other catch can fitting feeds back to the inlet of the turbo.
  10. blind_elk
    I would say the pivot point on the clutch fork has broken. When you press the pedal, the cracks in the fork pivot simply "opens up" and doesn't push the thrust bearing fully onto the pressure plate. Alternatively, the clutch pedal box has broken.
  11. blind_elk
    A black spark tip usually signifies poor combustion, rather than no combustion. Do you have compression in #5? Poor compression could cause poor combustion of the air/fuel mix. Clean #5 plug, to make sure it will fire correctly (if it's going to fire). Swap #5 coil with another cylinder, and observe which cylinder now has the problem.
  12. blind_elk
    Pretty much. No. (how are you going to crank the engine otherwise?) No It should be consistent across all cylinders with +/-10% variation (not necessarily 10% of 170)
  13. blind_elk
    If the light is working, it should come on with all the other warning lights just as you turn the key from ACC to ON (before START).
  14. blind_elk
    Have become aware of a R30 hatch available for parts. Another car managed to park on top of it!!!! So it's been written off. If you need parts, contact Janet Coleman on 03 9822 3361
  15. blind_elk
    SEARCH is your friend
  16. blind_elk
    No wonder it's flooding. It should only be around 39psi.
  17. blind_elk
    If you can only run 91 fuel, you will need to take some timing out of the maps. Also, what is the setting for timing during start? RBs like a lot, like 40-45 deg. When trying to start after flooding, you need to just keep cranking - could take nearly a minute to clear the excess fuel. The engine won't start like normal.
  18. blind_elk
    As long as you have treated it well, with regular maintenance, there is no reason why it can't last forever.
  19. blind_elk
    Word of warning - NEVER start a newly built engine unless you are certain you have oil pressure. Check for oil pressure by cranking only, with spark plugs removed.
  20. blind_elk
    It'll be steam - nothing to worry about. Every car I've ever had does it.
  21. blind_elk
    You need to do a "wet" compression test as well (bit of oil in each cylinder). If compression increases, then rings are the likely culprit. You should replace all 6 sets of rings.
  22. blind_elk
    What is a BM44 master off? How different is the master you are using compared to the master being replaced (bore, stroke)? All the calipers are similar to a R32 (4-pot front, 2-pot rear)?
  23. blind_elk
    Might not be relevant, but I had a similar problem fitting a new master cylinder (260Z) into my 240Z. Turned out there was a rubber block missing between the booster diaphragm and the pushrod in the master cylinder.
  24. blind_elk
    Another thing - did you also swap the rear diff. The car will have serious problems if the front and rear diff ratios don't match.
  25. blind_elk
    Here:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...ml#entry5153484
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