blind_elk

It'll be steam - nothing to worry about. Every car I've ever had does it.

You need to do a "wet" compression test as well (bit of oil in each cylinder). If compression increases, then rings are the likely culprit. You should replace all 6 sets of rings.

What is a BM44 master off? How different is the master you are using compared to the master being replaced (bore, stroke)? All the calipers are similar to a R32 (4-pot front, 2-pot rear)?

Might not be relevant, but I had a similar problem fitting a new master cylinder (260Z) into my 240Z. Turned out there was a rubber block missing between the booster diaphragm and the pushrod in the master cylinder.

Another thing - did you also swap the rear diff. The car will have serious problems if the front and rear diff ratios don't match.

Here:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...ml#entry5153484

Did your mate also swap over the pinion gear?

If you have spark, then presumably the CAS is working correctly. As I asked in the other copy of this thread (!!!!!): Have you got power (+12V) at the injectors? Did you have the injectors cleaned before you installed the engine.

Have you got power (+12V) to the injectors? Did you have the injectors cleaned before you installed the engine?

If the engine is basically idling, then it isn't doing any work. And if it isn't doing any work, it won't produce any heat. If you can, you need to take it for a drive for about 10 minutes to bring the engine up to operating temperature.

Some timing lights appear to double the reading when setting idle timing. Safest method is to insert a spark plug lead between #1 coil and #1 spark plug, then set timing "old school".

That result is typical of shot rings. But you might expect that the engine still stands a chance of starting. You have probably flooded the engine in your attempts to get it to start - try starting with WOT.

I think you have a dead short to earth in the wire going to the sender (probably farked sender).

The fpr controls fuel pressure by an internal spring acting against a diaphragm. The fuel pressure in the rail is varied by applying vacuum or boost to the diaphragm in the fpr. When the engine is not even running, the fpr sees atmospheric pressure. If the fpr simply opened because the engine was not running, it is unlikely that the engine would start because there would not be enough fuel pressure in the rail to squirt properly through the injectors. According to my workshop manual, cold start problems can be caused by: - cold start enrichment from the engine temp sensor is not working -- try starting with the engine temp sensor disconnected -- check engine temp sensor resistance -- check engine temp sensor output voltage - idle speed controller is not working - start time enrichment is not working - cranking speed too slow Then combine with the poor cold idle: - idle control system not working correctly - cold start valve not working properly - engine temp sensor not working correctly.

Not content with condoning a bunch of f%$#wits carrying on like spoilt little brats whose mummy won't buy them an icecream and subsequently destroying someone else's property, now you are admitting and condoning insurance fraud.

Not content with condoning a bunch of f%$#wits carrying on like spoilt little brats whose mummy won't buy them an icecream and subsequently destroying someone else's property, now you are admitting and condoning insurance fraud.

My bad (although he only said "replaced", not "fitted new"). Anyway, let's get back to the basics - how do you know the engine is overheating? What are the symptoms?

FFS, nothing to do with the FN oxy sensor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Check all the IC piping - it has probably popped a joint when the losers at the sound shop took it out for a "test drive".

No. The fpr is designed to maintain the correct pressure behind the injectors. If there is too much pressure, the fpr simply releases excess pressure, ie fuel, back to the fuel return line.

Are you using all the factory sensors and ECU? Do all the sensors work (within factory spec)? Did you do things like remove and clean the injectors before you installed the engine? Have you checked the ignition timing?

Put the thermostat back. The majority of overheating problems are caused by a blocked radiator core. Take the radiator to a radiator specialist and get them to clean the cores.

Actually, I noticed tonight that I had a similar vibration. Only really noticeable at highway speed, but you almost have to feel for it. Then I recalled being told a while ago that I had a bit of wear in the rack ends. Might want to check that possibility out.

Any marks on the belt itself are irrelevant to setting of the timing. The number of teeth on the belt is not an integer multiple of the number of teeth on the cam wheels, so it is unlikely that those marks on the belt will align with marks on the cam wheels after any number of crank / camshaft revolutions. The important marks are on the crank pulley and the cam wheels.

It can still be a balance problem. The new wheels might not be centring on the hub correctly. Can you swap the wheels F<->R? What happens?

Can you swap the plugs, ie you've plugged the reverse lights onto the speedo connection.