blind_elk

Since when has having oil pressure been a problem? What grade of oil is in the engine?

Check the seals around the boot.

Changes the angle of the lower control arm, and pushes the ball joint outwards, the tie-rod stays the same, resulting in the front end going to toe-in.

Don't know why you need to undo the front swaybar. If you jack BOTH front wheels at the same time, the swaybar isn't a problem. And don't understand about the ABS thing, NISSAN GTR. But then I don't have a GT-R, although I do have ABS. And I understand in the 33s, you need to remove the rear seat to get at the top bolts for the rears.

Why on earth would anyone jump out of a perfectly good airplane, with nothing more than a giant handkerchief to prevent them hitting the ground hard?

It's running rich. It's supposed to do it.

So, none of the lights (park, low, high) are working? Are the tail lights working? Are the dash lights working? The fuses are under the dashboard (pretty sure the "fuses" in the engine bay are relays). And check the switch itself - it's a common problem.

The battery starts the car. Then the alternator re-charges the battery. The battery should have 12V (+ a tad) available before you attempt to start the engine.It is possible your alternator is shagged. Get the engine running, then measure voltage at the battery - it should be around 14V. If it isn't, the alternator is shagged. If the alternator is still ok, increase engine revs to around 2000, and measure volts at the battery - should still be around 14V. If it is more, the regulator in the alternator is shagged.

How old is the battery? "80% charge" basically means zip - what actual voltage do you have at the battery (static and start)?

The display is back-lit. Maybe that globe has blown.

I thought Sat Navs used the satelites to calculate your speed.

Talk to Sean - Concourse Towing (now has storage as well) 0413 566 086, [email protected]

How would heat from the engine cause water vapour to condense on the windscreen? Surely it would help the condensed water to evaporate. Keep the glass clean, then the water vapour has nothing to condense around.

Something is causing excess fuel to be delivered during the start process. Try giving it full throttle while trying to start. This will allow heaps of air in to help the fuel ignite.

If you are still going to Hanging Rock tomorrow, come and find me (at NDSOC group), we can discuss. Basically, I wouldn't expect the cleaning part to be that hard, tuning is the bugger bit.

No it doesn't. That would be the MAXIMUM pressure they tyre can handle.

Still available? There's 4 pieces, right? How much posted to Melbourne?

Probably referring to the R31 housing.

Have you got the hoses on the right way? Try this: switch ign to ON (to prime the pump and injector rail), then apply direct power to one side of the injector, other side of injector to earth. This should open the injector. Does fuel squirt out?

You have to imagine how the CAS would line up if the pin were still there. You should be able to see the rough surface where the pin has broken away from. If you put the CAS back out of alignment, it is highly probable the engine will not start.

Have you got the plastic bits that go around the steering column (r32)?

Vibrations generally are the result of imbalances in the wheels. Sometimes they can come from worn wheel bearings. Have those 2 areas checked out.

And then add at least another 2 psi.

If the clutch isn't aligned correctly, the gearbox won't go on. You have oil in the gearbox? (don't flame me for that, I know it's been done before) The clutch master has fluid? Been bled properly?

PM me if they become available, tx