blind_elk

Checked the fan belt tension? What error codes are coming out of the ATTESSA ECU?

Basically just pull the pins, that pads will slide out upwards. Then press the pistons back into the caliper to fit the new pads.

If you don't have a bleed nipple on the master, then crack the union where it connects to the master.

If you only drive it once a week, it's probable the battery is on the way out. And Skylines in general are VERY susceptible to voltages. Because the alternator is busy recharging the battery following the start procedure, the ECU sees this increased amperage output as a potential problem, and can't run the engine properly. Try keeping the battery on a trickle charge, at least for the 24 hours before you normally drive the car. And for goodness sake, keep it off boost while the engine is still cold.

You should be able to remove the injectors without actually removing the inlet plenum. RB20s you just remove the fuel rail. RB25s, it helps if you remove the throttle body to remove the fuel rail. If the basic electrics are still in place, you can remove the CAS (leave plugged into the loom) and spin slowly by hand to cause the injector to pulse (with ign ON). Better still, get the injectors to a cleaning service, they can evaluate spray patterns and clean the injectors. There are mobile services that do this. OK, it will cost you, but well worth it in the long run.

The ATTESSA problem will be related to the sensor "or its circuit". If the sensor appears to be intact, it would then be that the power supply to the sensor has been broken. Have you drill any holes, screwed any screws, recently? The clutch problem might just be that you are a bit quick with the clutch release (pedal up) process. Try slowing it down a bit.

Any old spark plug lead will do the job.

Doesn't ATTESSA use the ABS sensors as wheel-speed sensors, so it can tell loss of rear traction?

Why not? Mine is fine.

They were too stupid and incompetent to cut the tint film around the brake light? Tell them to do it properly!

Ok, have you got spark happening? Have you got fuel coming out of injectors?

So you are missing the actual arm that holds the blade? The rear wiper is just a smaller version of the front wiper. But, do you actually need a rear wiper for a RWC?

ABS is not for everyday use, it is for those "OH SH!T" moments, so you should be perfectly safe without it. So what exactly is wrong with the ABS? For the reverse lights, check the wires coming off the switch (located on the gearbox), and check all the other associated wiring.

The AAC is relatively easy to get to. Electrical load problems are generally related to the alternator. First step is to check that the tension on the alternator / fan belt is correct (tight enough).

I used the same aerial that was in the house when I moved in 15 years ago, and it worked fine on the HDTV. Only change I made was to replace the old-school ribbon cable with a good quality coax cable. As luck would have it, I have a "spare" aerial if you (or anyone) is interested.

On the other side, is it possible to install a 33 ECU into a 32 - if just for the increased polling frequency - and have it work correctly?

They can be cleaned. Check the FAQ area for how-to.

The clicking is the starter solenoid clicking in and out as the actual starter motor causes a massive drain on the available voltage. Before you get a new battery, try jump starting the car. And if the starter solenoid does its clicking thing, try a direct application of battery power to the solenoid switch connection (make sure the transmission is in neutral, and handbrake on).

For what you want, I reckon some Pedders shocks would suffice. Or you could go up a grade and get some KYB or Tockico shocks. Not as good as Bilsteins / Konis, but not as expensive either! And Pedders will be able to do HD springs as well.

No, the car is still registered in the owner's name (not the finance company). Anyway, part of the plan I heard about on 9 news was that sale of the car would pay off any outstanding finance, the balance to TAC, etc. Frankly, don't agree with getting your finance paid out - that should be part of the penalty - that you have the finance, but don't have the car. Might add a bit of incentive not to be a d!ckhead.There was another story about a P-plater (Commodore owner) done for 5 years for doing a burnout. Frankly a bit harsh, but he didn't show up for his court case (well, his mum forgot to remind him - WTF! can't the kid keep a diary or something?) He's appealing.

Must have been an idle threat.

I'll probably be there with "Connie".

I believe it's a good thing for the oil to go black. That means that the oil is doing its "detergent" function, cleaning up the insides of the engine. I would recommend you contact the Mobil Oil Technical line (find details at mobil.com.au).

It should be normal. A heavier/stiffer rear bar will increase the oversteer characteristics (as well as reduce understeer). If the bar is adjustable, try a softer setting.

How good is the battery? (And just because it cranks the engine doesn't mean the engine will fire. ECU needs about 7 V to "stay alive"). Is the CAS in the correct position? It should align on a half-moon key in the end of the exhaust cam. If the key is broken, then the CAS can align anywhere. Can you hear the injectors pulsing while engine is cranking? (Use a screwdriver as a stethoscope)