blind_elk

Little things like the age of the rubber brakeline hoses (older hose will "stretch" and relieve some of the braking pressure) and firewall flex (relieving pressure applied from the pedal to the master cylinder) can have an effect on braking efficiency.

Promise?

The fan only works when the A/C is on, and the engine starts to overheat. If you aren't running A/C, then the fan isn't going to work.

Rubbish. I have been involved in 2 "accidents" where I wasn't speeding. First one, some idiot decided to turn left across the service lane of Brighton Rd. I knew I couldn't stop, so I accelerated, got clipped and turned around with a dozen cars bearing down on me. Second one, a bloody great Kenworth came off the Tulla Fwy at Boundary Rd / Flemington Rd while I was travelling to city on Flemington Rd (long time before City Link). Fortunately I caught him out the corner of my eye, swerved right, but he still hit me, picked up the car in the LH lane and deposited me across the tram tracks.

I usually use the RB26 settings if I can't find specific RB20 settings. Seems to work for me.

If there is an increase in temp, then there is overheating. How hot is the engine getting when you have A/C working? What happens when you supply power directly to the fan?

Tried it on a couple of occasions. Cops not interested - "we have to see it", what a BS excuse. One was a guy sucking on a VB while driving, other one was a pair of idiot bikers doing monos up Burwood Hwy.

The assembly is held in by the same 3 bolts that hold the clutch master cylinder in place, and a bolt up behind the instrument panel (I found it easiest to remove the instrument panel to get at that one).

Fitting ATTESA AWD is not the simple matter of fitting the mechanical components. ATTESSA relies on a heap of hydraulics and electronics to work. It is the general consensus of many members here that it is simply not worth the time / expense / heartache.

By now you may well have flooded the engine. Try starting with WOT - this allows lots of air to help ignite the fuel lying around in the cylinders. That doesn't address the root cause, though. I would start by getting the injectors professionally cleaned.

Can you pull the front off? If so, simply ease the needle up and over the "stop" pin. Then make sure the needle sits down enough that it can't come back past the "stop".

I just don't believe it On the news, it's just been reported that a mate of one of the deceased was caught doing 160 in a 70 zone. When is it going to penetrate the cerebral protective bone?

Except when you want to take your car out on the track.It's annoying enough to hit the 180k/h limiter half way down the front straight of Phillip Island. Imagine hitting the 115 limit as you enter the top of the main straight of PI.

ATTESSA is for the AWD system. A (rwd) GTT doesn't have AWD, even with a RB26 in it. So you would be wasting your time and money.

Knock - you may have a sticking valve lifter. Try some Nulon "lifter cleaner". Starting - you are wasting fuel leaving the engine to "warm" for 5 minutes. There is no load on the engine, no work being done, no heat being produced, so it won't really warm up. Start the engine, and go. And have you check the P/S fluid level?

Don't have a problem with your idea Terry. But these things cost money, and no government is going to spend money on these things. All they are interested in is raising money from fining people for minor indiscretions.We have laws in place to control the types of vehicles that P-platers are permitted to drive. And what is the penalty - a fine and a couple of demerit points! If it's illegal for P-platers to drive these cars, then don't let them drive them. If caught, confiscate the keys. I don't know what I've done right in the past 30 years, but I have not been involved in any sort of crash that caused injury in thtah time. Actually, none of the accidents I have been involved in have been casualty accidents. Despite numerous forays into the realm of "speeding". The only 2 in the last 5 or so years, I've been stationary, and others have collided with me, generally through lack of concentration. A licence is a privilege, not a right. It is too easy to get a licence. We need to improve the licence testing. And to get off Ps, you have to complete an advanced driving course. And if the governments were serious about the road safety aspects of it all, they would pay for the courses. The investment would easily be covered by the reduction in cost of treating accident victims.

Try checking / cleaning the TPS connection.

If only there had been a speed camera there, none of this would have happened [/cynical]. But seriously, how many times does it have to happen before young, inexperienced drivers get it through the thick, boney, protective layer of the brain. And rocklee, the girl is seriously injured, not dead, bozo!

It provides additional intake air for cold start. It contains a "gate" connected to a bi-metal strip that is electrically heated (the plug on the LH end in pic). As it warms up, the "gate" closes, cutting off the additional intake air.

I've used an old-school mechanical oil pressure gauge without any problems.

Yes, moved in Nov 08. Street is "Vesper" (1 before (south side) Kingbird).

Me! Why?

A point to remember - platform-adjustable coilovers don't just adjust the ride height, they also adjust the weight balance to the 4 corners of the car. And having the good weight balance is what makes for good handling.

Probably unburnt carbon dislodged from the exhaust system. Normal for a cold engine.

You can't feed it back to "after turbo", because that area is at the same pressure as at the BOV. It has to go back to "before turbo" ie low pressure area.A lot of installations actually inject before the turbo because you can do it with a low pressure pump. If there was a risk to the impeller blades, I doubt they would consider it.