blind_elk

Try Repco.

Don't brake so heavily - coast up to the speed hump.

#1 won't supply the mixture when you are on boost - and that is when you want the mixture most. And #3 is simply a pressure source for the FPR - no air actually flows through the hose. If you feed directly into the manifold, after the TB, you risk uneven distribution of the mixture to the cylinders. Tap it into the cross-over "J" pipe. Any methanol flowing back through the BOV will probably drop out because it will be a low velocity air flow.

That's the CAS - Crank Angle Sensor - and is used to set ignition timing. The only relationship to the exhaust cam is that the exhaust cam drives the CAS. You really shouldn't be fiddling that because you risk setting hi-load hi-rev timing that will induce detonation. Just set it so your timing at idle is 15 deg BTDC, and leave it alone after that. As mad082 said, you may have lost a bit of power due to the hot weather.

Tap the methanol into the cross-over pipe that fits directly to the TB. Any other means of supplying methanol to the A/F mixture isn't going to work.

Measure the battery voltage as you try and start it. I think you will find not anywhere near enough volts available to work the starter motor. Another good reason to not have a turbo timer!

BKR5E-11 is the recommended Iridium plug for the RB25DET. If you like, you can close the gap a bit, say 1mm.

Of your mods, the only one with the potential to increase boost and power output is the exhaust (by freeing up the flow of exhaust gasses). If anything, the pod will reduce power output because the engine is inhaling hot air from the engine bay, rather than cooler air from outside the car.

That's your problem. You need to fit a new seal kit.

That's why I use a computer for internet and a phone for making and receiving phone calls!

The Microtech needs a bit of tuning to handle A/C stuff.

Perfect Fit is basically a trade magazine put out by Nissan Australia. It covers topics including Nissan's vehicle range, as well as technical topics. The current issue has an article on removing frozen / stuck nuts and bolts (http://www.nissanperfectfit.com.au/mags/1001/index.html) which might be of use to forum members.

But you can't see the crap ordinarily!Was the car running fine before you did this? (Rule 1 of Motor Mechanics: If it ain't broke, don't fix it!)

First off, its coMpression. and wHen. and warM (I'm guessing). But you appear to be talking something totally different, like oil pressure.

The bolts screw into the halfshaft flange - no nuts are required. So you need to get the correct thread pitch.

What's the error code out of the ATTESSA computer? Check the TPS connection. How old is the battery?

Try the cheap option first - a bit of Silastic on the "D".

The metal connectors on the ends of the wires, or in the plug unit itself, are spade connectors. You can buy them at auto parts stores, and electrical parts stores (Dick Smith, Jaycar). And you can get them with a plastic insulating coating. Go and see your local Autobarn or SuperCrap store. You will need the "red" type. You will need a crimping tool as well.

I know you can get the ignition locks with new key. > A$300 though. I would have thought any half decent locksmith could cut a new key from the lock.

What a load of crock! You shouldn't be stretching tyres on rims. Tyres are designed, from a performance and SAFETY perspective, to suit a particular width rim, irrespective of the offset of the rim. The total wheel width & offset and tyre size package should be assembled with the optimum of performance and safety in mind. If a particular wheel / tyre combo won't fit under the guards, then something is wrong.And legally (roadworthy-wise) the rim / tyre MUST fit inside the guard, ie no part of the rim / tyre can protrude beyond the line of the bodywork..

It won't be a problem that requires bleeding of the system. In that scenario, the pedal would be too low. Check the adjustment of the pushrod on the pedal. From memory, there should be about 2cm movement of the pedal before the system starts to work.

Might I suggest that you don't need to have any static -ve camber. Unlike the solid rear axle, where the camber is fixed, the swinging A-arm has dynamic camber. As you load up the suspension and compress the spring, the suspension goes into -ve camber. So one way to get some added -ve camber would be to lower the suspension. The only problem then is that the suspension goes toe-out.

Offset has no bearing on the size of the tyres. Only thing to consider is the width of the rim. Once you know that, check the manufacturer's spec sheet to determine the optimum tyre size to fit.

It will probably come out the same way as welsh plugs come out (and it will probably be damaged in the process and require replacement). You need to tap it near an edge so it rotates in the hole. (axis of rotation is the diameter of the hole, not the axis of the hole) - ie punch one side down (into the hole) so that the opposite side comes up (out of the hole).

If you want to bring it to my place (Werribee) tomorrow (Tuesday), I'll have a look at it for you.