blind_elk

Me! Why?

A point to remember - platform-adjustable coilovers don't just adjust the ride height, they also adjust the weight balance to the 4 corners of the car. And having the good weight balance is what makes for good handling.

Probably unburnt carbon dislodged from the exhaust system. Normal for a cold engine.

You can't feed it back to "after turbo", because that area is at the same pressure as at the BOV. It has to go back to "before turbo" ie low pressure area.A lot of installations actually inject before the turbo because you can do it with a low pressure pump. If there was a risk to the impeller blades, I doubt they would consider it.

Try Repco.

Don't brake so heavily - coast up to the speed hump.

#1 won't supply the mixture when you are on boost - and that is when you want the mixture most. And #3 is simply a pressure source for the FPR - no air actually flows through the hose. If you feed directly into the manifold, after the TB, you risk uneven distribution of the mixture to the cylinders. Tap it into the cross-over "J" pipe. Any methanol flowing back through the BOV will probably drop out because it will be a low velocity air flow.

That's the CAS - Crank Angle Sensor - and is used to set ignition timing. The only relationship to the exhaust cam is that the exhaust cam drives the CAS. You really shouldn't be fiddling that because you risk setting hi-load hi-rev timing that will induce detonation. Just set it so your timing at idle is 15 deg BTDC, and leave it alone after that. As mad082 said, you may have lost a bit of power due to the hot weather.

Tap the methanol into the cross-over pipe that fits directly to the TB. Any other means of supplying methanol to the A/F mixture isn't going to work.

Measure the battery voltage as you try and start it. I think you will find not anywhere near enough volts available to work the starter motor. Another good reason to not have a turbo timer!

BKR5E-11 is the recommended Iridium plug for the RB25DET. If you like, you can close the gap a bit, say 1mm.

Of your mods, the only one with the potential to increase boost and power output is the exhaust (by freeing up the flow of exhaust gasses). If anything, the pod will reduce power output because the engine is inhaling hot air from the engine bay, rather than cooler air from outside the car.

That's your problem. You need to fit a new seal kit.

That's why I use a computer for internet and a phone for making and receiving phone calls!

The Microtech needs a bit of tuning to handle A/C stuff.

Perfect Fit is basically a trade magazine put out by Nissan Australia. It covers topics including Nissan's vehicle range, as well as technical topics. The current issue has an article on removing frozen / stuck nuts and bolts (http://www.nissanperfectfit.com.au/mags/1001/index.html) which might be of use to forum members.

But you can't see the crap ordinarily!Was the car running fine before you did this? (Rule 1 of Motor Mechanics: If it ain't broke, don't fix it!)

First off, its coMpression. and wHen. and warM (I'm guessing). But you appear to be talking something totally different, like oil pressure.

The bolts screw into the halfshaft flange - no nuts are required. So you need to get the correct thread pitch.

What's the error code out of the ATTESSA computer? Check the TPS connection. How old is the battery?

Try the cheap option first - a bit of Silastic on the "D".

The metal connectors on the ends of the wires, or in the plug unit itself, are spade connectors. You can buy them at auto parts stores, and electrical parts stores (Dick Smith, Jaycar). And you can get them with a plastic insulating coating. Go and see your local Autobarn or SuperCrap store. You will need the "red" type. You will need a crimping tool as well.

I know you can get the ignition locks with new key. > A$300 though. I would have thought any half decent locksmith could cut a new key from the lock.

What a load of crock! You shouldn't be stretching tyres on rims. Tyres are designed, from a performance and SAFETY perspective, to suit a particular width rim, irrespective of the offset of the rim. The total wheel width & offset and tyre size package should be assembled with the optimum of performance and safety in mind. If a particular wheel / tyre combo won't fit under the guards, then something is wrong.And legally (roadworthy-wise) the rim / tyre MUST fit inside the guard, ie no part of the rim / tyre can protrude beyond the line of the bodywork..

It won't be a problem that requires bleeding of the system. In that scenario, the pedal would be too low. Check the adjustment of the pushrod on the pedal. From memory, there should be about 2cm movement of the pedal before the system starts to work.