blind_elk

Because a thermo fan relies on on air moving through the radiator only when the car is moving. This isn't always guaranteed. Air can escape out under the car rather than pass through the radiator. The factory fan is always working, and always draws air through the radiator.

On mine those are an Allen bolt. All I'm saying is that you don't need to source the bolts from Nissan. Any auto parts store or bolt supplier will have a bolt that will do the job. And there are no nuts involved.

Replace ALL the welsh plugs while you are about it. If one has failed, the rest can't be too far behind. Your overheating problem is probably because you are running a thermo fan (that's my experience, anyway).

It's a RWD, isn't it?

Jaycar make a little kit that will show what is happening at the O2 sensor. About $35, DIY.

It's a bolt! Possibly 8mm x 1.25 x 20mm. On my 32 GTS4, the bolts come in from the diff side, through the diff flange and screw into the axle / halfshaft flange. You can't fit bolts that are too small! It either has the right size or it doesn't have the right size. Just make sure they are done up tightly and it should hold.

You might have a bit of pre-load on the sway bars. Try disconnecting one link on each of front and rear bars, and re-measure the ride heights.

That would have been my first question.

When you start a hot car on a hot day, the A/C / climate control should be set to "fresh" and a window opened so that it pushes the hot air out and replaces it with the cooled A/C air. When the inside of the car is at a more reasonable temp, window up, A/C to "recirc". If you intercept the thermo switch wiring (switch in the bottom tank of the radiator), rewire it through a relay to the A/C clutch. Then it will switch on when the A/C clutch engages.

Make it stop - slotted rotors, decent pads Make it handle - sway bars, wheels/tyres, springs/shocks Then make it go.

This is why: There are dozens of threads covering the same problem.Why on earth people insist on cleaning something that is not ordinarily visible is beyond me.

Have you checked the P/S fluid? Is the HICAS warning light working (comes on just before you start the engine)?

Do you have an alarm with battery backup? If you do, the 'start' process is draining the car's battery to the point that it cannot keep enough voltage to the alarm siren. The siren thinks the battery has been disconnected, and "goes off", using its own battery for power. When you stop cranking, external voltage is restored to the alarm siren, and it turns off. The symptoms are coincidental. Did you have the stereo going while you were doing all this work on the car? Try jump starting the car. But you may well need a new battery.

There's a push-button just above the main light switch, for fog lights (even if you don't have fog lights!)

It's only a sensor for the ABS on the diff. If you have no ABS to connect it to, then I can't see it being a problem.

Well, this was the solution when I had the same problem: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/4W...html&hl=tps

No it doesn't. That's the thermo switch for the A/C radiator fan. The ECU temp switch should be in the pipe that connects to the top radiator hose - it'll be the 2-pin connector.

Check the TPS is connected properly.

Some people still just don't seem to get it! http://www.heraldsun.com.au/news/victoria/...x-1225813966472

Adjust the pushrod at the clutch pedal.

What spark plugs? And try opening the gaps back out to 1mm, seeing as you are running everything stock. Try starting with the ECU temp sender (2-pin connector) disconnected. Don't understand how a body kit can get in the way of the inlet plenum.

Doubt your clutch slip problems are related to the gearbox oil - save your money. Is there any freeplay in the clutch fork when the clutch pedal is up (clutch engaged)? The ABS light probably came on because you (re-)started the engine while the car was moving. And the brake pad wear markers tend to leave a considerable amount of material on the pad.

So, if the sump flanges are different widths between the AWD/ RWD blocks, then the sumps ARE NOT interchangeable.The simple solution is to have a sump custom made to suit the AWD block in a RWD application.

Exactly how is it "a bitch to cold start"? What ecu? Maybe check out the cold start valve (on the underside of the inlet plenum).

remove = uninstall. (remove extinguisher & bracket)To actually get the extinguisher out of its cradle is about 5 seconds.