blind_elk

If the AWD light is on, then that means there is a problem with the AWD system. When there is an error in the AWD system, it doesn't work.

But you'll never get the piston back in. It can only be installed through the top of the block.

What's the error code coming out of the ATTESSA computer? Are you sure the headlamp globe is "in good nick"? Some breaks in the filament are hard to see. Hook it to a battery, or test with a multimeter.

Depends which GTS4. If you want to drift it, get a RWD model. Oh, and the SEARCH function should have uncovered dozens of threads on this subject.

No, more to do with the nut holding the wheel! Oh, forgot, you let go of the wheel, didn't you? bozo!get the bloody car checked out for out of balance wheels & worn suspension components. And just stay away from the Werribee area!

Think yourself lucky - many years ago, every RWC would require replacement of the windscreen! Regardless.

Is this while one side of the car is jacked up? And why is the car "under power in carparks" so that the rear wheels lose traction?

Check in the DIY section for the climate control diagnostic.

O2 sensor is working just fine. On injector shutoff on overrun, there is no fuel being supplied, so the mixture goes ultra lean (air only). That is why the O2 sensor reads 0V. Now don't freak out about the "ultra lean", no damage can be done to the engine because there is essentially no load on the engine (and I suspect Nissan, and many other manufacturers, would not do this if it risked the life of the engine). Essentially, you really should not be able to determine the power of the engine while it is cold. You should be grannying it until it is up to temp. What mods do you have - they may be contributing to the symptoms you are suffering.

The 2 opposite each other are generally so you can mount the FPR any way, and still easily point the return line in the right direction. You obviously only need to use one, and the opposite one you put a "plug" fitting in.

Someone (might be me) is not understanding what is going on here and just what the problem appears to be. The ambient temperature has nothing to do with the operation of the viscous clutch fan attached to the water pump. The viscous fan clutch is always "engaged", because it is attached to the water pump which is driven by a belt driven by the engine's crankshaft. The speed of the fan varies with engine speed. As the engine spins faster, the liquid inside the clutch thins (reduces in viscosity), reducing the drag on the clutch, so the fan blades don't spin as fast (resistance of the blades through the air slows the blades). When the engine slows down, such as in stop-start traffic, the fluid thickens to cause the fan blades to spin at approximately the same speed as the engine and draw air through the radiator. If the engine still operates within temperature parameters, what does it matter how, when, where, or why the fan "engages"?

Using a RB30 head, you will lose compression. You will also need a high pressure EFI fuel pump. Have a "talk" with Steve at Speed Technology - www.efihardware.com - they have all the stuff you will need. Would look cool with a set of "Weber" manifold and trumpets.

Just because the flush liquid is clean doesn't mean the cores are clean and unblocked. You need to run rods down each core to dislodge solid material stuck in there.

(it's "they're", "worn" and "squeal")Are the pads 90% or 10% worn. If they are 90% worn (10% remaining), then the squeal will be the wear tab scraping on the rotor. And, Ruffels, NEVER had a problem with Bendix Ultimates.

More than likely. But why don't you just try one on the car and see if it looks like it will fit?

Nissan AWD systems in the RB-engined vehicles work by a lot of electronics and hydraulics. There are numerous threads asking similar question - converting RWD Nissans to AWD, so do a search. If you are intent on using a Nissan engine, then you may need to look at the Patrol series.

The fan is driven by the engine, so it's always "on". If it's just noisy, then maybe the viscous clutch is stuffed.

NO NO. The active ingredient is ethylene glycol, plus various anti-corrosion chemicals - not really designed to be sent through the stormwater or sewage systems. Take them all to your local council's recycling station - I know the Monash one on FTG Rd near Blackburn Rd will accept them. They might charge a few $$, but what price saving the environment?

I really don't understand why everyone gets so het up when the temp spikes a bit while the car is stationary. Really, as long as the temp sits correctly while the car is moving, then there isn't a problem. And you can certainly save the $$$ you were intending to use to upgrade the radiator.

The car will be fine to drive, as long as you are sensible. Just because it has a turbo doesn't mean that you have to boost it all the time.

The clutch master cylinder usually leaks back past the pushrod seal. If you pull away the carpet behind the pedals, you should see the leaked fluid. Top up the master cylinder, and you should be able to drive to the mechanic's for him to replace the seals in the master cylinder.

Of course it is - it's pinging! Because the engine is cold, and the ECU is running the engine rich. Have you actually looked to see what plugs are installed?You still haven't told us what fuel pressure the engine is running. If the plug is running too hot, it can pre-ignite the mixture (works like a glowplug).

But why? Your R32 should already have 4-piston front calipers.

You are joking, right?

AWD / NA sumps are not interchangeable. Get a R32 GTS4 engine (RB20DET + AWD). You might need to swap your NA diff into the RB20 - R32 = 4.375:1.