blind_elk

It's not unusual for brake pads to wear at different rates. Get the car to any good mechanic to have new pads installed. You might even be able to find a mobile mechanic to come to you - check Yellow Pages.

Why did I receive an email of the SAUWA newsletter, when I'm in Victoria?

Oh dear, you cleaned carbon from the throttle body. This is a common cause for high idle in GT-Rs, so I wouldn't be surprised if the same thing happened in GTSTs. You may also have dislodged the TPS so it no longer sends the "throttle closed" signal to the ECU.

Are you sure it's timed at 15? Some timing lights double the actual reading. If it's idling at 7.5, then it's probably firing AFTER TDC on boost (ie the piston is already into the power stroke before the fuel/air mixture is ignited). And that is worse than useless for making power.

There's 3 hours labour involved in changing the timing belt. To change the water pump, there is roughly the same 3 hours labour (the same disassembly of the timing case is required). So, while it's all apart for the timing belt, might as well change the water pump (might be an extra 1/2 hour labour, rather than 3).

You've been a member here for 5 years. In that time, you must have seen at least a couple of threads dealing with running different sized rims on Nissan AWD vehicles.

Pumps create pressure. Pressure (differences in pressure) causes fluids to move. The expansion of water when heated, even in an enclosed space, is insufficient to create the kinds of pressure you see inside a cooling system. And there will always be some air inside the cooling system, which will absorb the pressure increases far more readily than water will. Back to the OP - I think you will find that the water pump impellers are cactus, and the water is not circulating properly.

There's probably 100 different versions of those. Which fricken plug? (Hint: it's actually written on the ceramic part of the plug)

The inlet appears to be fine. The exhaust appears to be 2 teeth advanced. But of course it all depends on where the timing marker on the crank pulley is pointing. You don't need to remove radiator to make the adjustment.

If you've bent a valve, then it is odds-on that you will have 0 compression. If you have any compression at all, then it's more likely a rings problem.

I would pay more for the KYBs before I would even touch the Monroes.

It'll work a lot better if you put the steel wool IN the can! Doh!

But what fecken plugs are they? Manufacturer, Pt/Cu, heat range?Have you diagnosed which cylinder has the miss? Older ignitors have a tendency to cause misfires when they get hot. Unless you are running fairly serious boost, 0.8mm is probably too small. Try opening back out to around 1mm (regardless how it used to run with 0.8).

What do you mean you weren't hard on it? You hit the rev limiter in 1st gear!! I might suggest you've popped an intercooler hose.

Just fit a filter to the breather you created. And put some steel wool on the can - it gives the oil in the vapours something to condense onto.

It really sounds like ATTESSA problem. Swap the tyres F<->R, see if it goes away.

How about just asking the question once! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Le...er-t297868.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Le...er-t297867.html First off, do you have compression?

Welcome aboard. Great little car, the GTS4. Pity the RB20 is so under-powered for it. To your problem: faulty fuel pump would more likely cause it to run lean, not rich. O2 sensor is a possibility, but remember it has no effect unless you are at constant throttle and low-medium load, eg highway cruise. Test it with a multimeter - the middle pin @ the connector in the engine bay should show volts oscillating between 0 - 1V when the engine is run @ constant 2000rpm. Engine management is unlikely, unless you have aftermarket ECU. Although they are programmed from the factory to run a bit rich. Injectors - a possibility. If 1 or 2 have a bit of dirt caught in the needle, causing a fuel leak into the cylinders. Get them sonic cleaned.

Contact Quadrant Suspensions in Berwick - they are distributors for Bilstein.

How many fricken times do we have to tell people that Nissan AWD cars need to run same size rim and same size tyre on all four corners. If you deviate from that rule, you are simply asking for trouble.The bozo who fitted this tyre combo should be shot.

Nothing to do with how fast the oil heats up. It's all about viscosity. A 20W oil will still get up to operating temperature (considered to be 100degC). The first number indicates the cold viscosity of the oil. The "W" indicates that the viscosity was actually measured at the cold temperature (around 0degC). This number only really means anything in relation to starting the engine. The lower the number, the faster oil can be pumped through a cold engine, and therefore the less dry running, and thus less engine wear. The second number indicates the viscosity of the oil at 100degC. The higher the number, the higher the viscosity, and the harder it is to pump the oil around the oil galleries and through the bearing clearances. Modern high performance engines have small clearances, and thus require a low viscosity (30 or 40) oil. Older engines, like the old L-series Nissan engines, run larger clearances, and can tolerate a higher viscosity (50) oil. Have a read: http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroi...sity/index.html

Unless you replace both, you will still have a restriction in the exhaust.

Voltages look ok. Fuel pressure seems a bit low at idle. You CANNOT run the fuel lines back to front. You are running HUGE cams and HUGE injectors - the car will have problems idling (ever heard a drag car or old-school race car idle smoothly?). Erratic idling can also be the AAC.

Why don't you have a spare key to the car? And a lesson I learned many years ago (180B days) - ALWAYS use the key to lock the door. Anyway, thieves usually seem to go in through the door handle and pop the pushrod. You're not in RAA? Because I'm sure they do it for free to members.

When did it start doing this?