blind_elk

Using pin 18 to pull a relay switch to earth seems to work in just about every other EFI Nissan. You should have 12V at the power side of the switch. Maybe the relay you are using is too "strong", in that it requires too much current to switch.

Unstable idle is usually related to the Idle Control valve.

Pretty certain the ECU will know the engine is running because it is getting signals from the CAS. The ECU has 2 processes for the fuel pump. At IGN ON, the ECU runs the pump for 5 seconds to prime the system with pressurised fuel. Then at IGN START, the ECU turns the pump on full time, and keeps it running as long as the engine is running. You need to wire the relay so that the ECU pin 18 switches the relay switching circuit to earth. Then, as soon as the IGN is turned off, the pump should stop.

Grand Turismo SPORT - Turbo The non-turbo is the GTS, with a RB25DE engine. Yes, you can fit a RB26DETT at a later stage. You will need to upgrade brakes as well, and suspension.

Have you got the fuel lines onto the rail around the right way? If the cylinders are getting fuel, then the spark plugs should be wet with unburnt fuel. You could try pulling an injector and watching the spray pattern while cranking the engine (put the injector in a jar or similar).

With age, the ignitors are prone to break down when they get hot. If it runs rough at idle, do the standard "which coil is misfiring" test. Try a cool wet rag on the ignitor module, see if that fixes the misfire.

You might have to remove the trim from along the bottom edge (under the steering column). This should expose a couple of screws holding the cluster in place.

Then there must be some current flow (double negative).A bit of info might help. Do you go to your doctor with "I don't feel well. Diagnose me"? What exactly is happening when you attempt to start the engine?

Even did it to the thread title. Does it to "p i ggyback" - changes to copgyback LOL. How fn stupid is that?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...rs-t295093.html This is an example of where the word "p1g" gets changed to "cop". Is it this forum, or is it my browser?

Bilsteins usually have several grooves machined into the main body. The groove retains a circlip which supports the spring platform. Check that the units haven't been assembled with the circlip on the highest groove. You could also get new grooves machined to raise the spring platform.

My rules for vehicle modifications: 1. Make it stop - slotted rotors, decent pads, braided brake lines 2. Make it handle. - upgrade shocks, springs, swaybars, front camber 3. Now make it go - cubic inches still count.

The holes are to balance the flywheel (similar to balancing a wheel/tyre by adding wheel weights, on flywheels they subtract weight by drilling holes). It may not necessarily be lighter - you should weigh them both to check. The advantage, I believe, is a slightly better acceleration - less mass to be made to spin. The downside can be a poor / unstable idle, due to a lack of rotating mass the help keep the engine spinning.

Clearly they're NOT all the same. By the time you have the new bolt holes and dowels machined into this flywheel, you probably could have gone and bought the proper L26 flywheel. Take the 200B flywheel back, tell the idiot "they're not all the same, bozo", then go somewhere else and get a L26 flywheel.

Does the cold start valve work? Should be open at (cold) start, then closes off as the engine warms up.

The question was asked only last week. SEARCH!

Right on the money.

There should be permanent power to one side of the fuse. The switch then switches power to the lamp. So you have: battery - fuse - switch - lamp - earth. If the fuse keeps blowing, then you have a 'dead short' somewhere - you have pinched the power feed to the lamp somewhere between the fuse and the lamp so it contacts the body of the car. Have fun finding where, but start somewhere around the wiring of the turbo timer (an unnecessary addition, IMO)

If you are not making a significant amount of power above stock, then the recommended heat range plug should be used. And Nissan / NGK specify a heat range 5 for this engine. Increases in power require a 'colder' (6, 7) plug. The main advantage of platinum and iridium plugs over normal coppers is they are a longer lasting plug, so you don't need to replace them so often. And when it boils down to it, "a spark plug is a spark plug". As long as you have the appropriate heat range, all spark plugs should work the same - the fuel and air mixture can't tell the difference.

Have a look for a spring wire clip at the injector end of the plug.

Actually, only stays there for about 50 "start" cycles.+1 for the ignitor. They tend to start misbehaving when they are old and they get a bit of heat happening. You might be able to diagnose it by putting a cold wet rag on the ignitor as soon as you get the problem - ignitor problems like this go away once the ignitor cools down.

What fuel pressure are you running? Considering that you are running injectors probably 4x standard flow rate, I'm surprised it runs at all. You have a programmable ECU - trim some fuel out of it at 'start' and 'idle'.

The reservoir is for ATTESSA, so you don't need it. ECUs are slightly different - GTR has 2 O2 sensors, and an air temp sensor, which the GTSt doesn't have. The extra width in the guards of the GTR is to accommodate the smaller offset of the wheels. Your GTSt rims should still fit inside the guards.

I could meet u @ ur work tomorrow.

That would be my guess.