blind_elk

Caliper will mount, but won't necessarily work. The caliper is designed to fit over a specific sized rotor - diameter, thickness, offset.

My first guess - and I'm no expert - would be that a 3L engine wouldn't breath too well through RB20 cams, in standard form, let alone with a huge turbo pumping stuff in. Lift is only 7.8mm (GT-R is 8.3mm lift). Both are a 240 duration (In & Ex). And which RB20 cams (DE, DET)? Also, the specs for the RB20 and RB25 cams are different: . In Open In Close Lobe Centre Ex Open Ex Close Lobe Centre O/Lap LSA RB20DET 5 BTDC 55ABDC 115 60BBDC TDC 120 5 117.5 RB25DET TDC 60ABDC 120 57BBDC 3ATDC 117 3 118.5 Maybe a set of adjustable cam gears might help. RB20s don't run a resistor pack on the injectors. (although I recognise that it might be needed for the PFC to not poo its drivers)

RTFM, perhaps? I suspect it is a matter of setting the idle timing in the PFC, then while checking timing with a timing light adjust the CAS until the timing light gives the same value as you have programmed in the PFC. With a stock ECU, it is simply a matter of checking with the timing light because you know that the ECU is programmed for 15BTDC @ idle.

Can't give you a specific answer, but I would be looking at the Z series - 300ZXTT, 350Z, 370Z.

You should find that the current tacho runs on a signal from the ECU. Just find that wire, and you should be ok.

We don't do that sort of thing here!

Good luck to your engine.

According to my workshop manual, unstable idle @ cold start can be caused by: Engine temp sensor - check its resistance value, output voltage AAC valve - valve should be closed. Check if idle adjustment is set correctly. A/F ratio too rich/lean. Try starting with vac to FPR disconnected. Ignition timing incorrect. Poor condition of spark plugs. (payback - wtf is "simlure"? I think the word you want is "similar". kids!!!!pfffft!)

I'm sure there are dozens of threads that describe the marks on the crank pulley. So, once again: there are 7 marks on the pulley, each represents 5 degrees of crank rotation, and 1 mark on the timing case cover. As you look at the engine from front on, the timing marks "move" from left to right. The last mark is TDC. Regardless of the level of mods, base timing should be 15BTDC. This then puts the "trigger" in the correct relative position to let the ECU calculate correctly when to fire the spark, based on what is programmed into the internal load maps. My experience is that RB engines don't seem to respond all that well to ignition to alter detonation, they seem to respond much better to fuel adjustments. Depending on the age and condition of the engine, the knock the PFC is detecting may not necessarily be detonation, it could be noisy lifters, or maybe piston slap.

Can't reset a PFC. High idle on a GT-R is commonly a result of cleaning the throttle bodies around the butterflies (which you shouldn't do). According to the workshop manual, the idle air adjustment is on the AAC valve.

It's not the f#$%^n O2 sensor - its input is totally disregarded by the ECU during acceleration!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How many F$%^&*N times does it have to be said!!!!!!!!!!! [/rant] Now, I know you've only had the car for 1 day, but what mods does it have? Aftermarket ECU? Atmo BOV? Anything else?

Just for the record, the double negative of the thread title means that your GT-R DOES have a rear wiper.

How on earth do you break THREE Nissan gearboxes? My 32 GTS4 is running a RB25DET through it, has just over 200k on it, and is still fine. I had a 180B SSS - it was the race / rally / motorkhana / daily car. In over 300k, the only problems I ever had was a collapsed 1st gear layshaft bearing, and the selector rod had a bit of wear, making reverse a bit difficult to select. In my experience, Nissan gearboxes are as good as bulletproof.

Clesarly you have boost, so the turbo itself is ok. Then the problem lies with the gauge - either it is stuffed on the "boost" side, or there is a leak in the hose supplying the boost to it.

The shock absorber simply controls the spring. The spring controls weight transfer. If you have 12kg springs, then you have 12kg springs. With such a "heavy" spring, it is likely you will have difficulty putting the power to the ground. And it will likely understeer like a cop. This might be great for "dorifto", but dangerous on the street, imo. From what I have read, even 6kg springs can be dicey. my 2c

Have you cleaned the fuel tank? Once heard of a similar problem (in a Patrol) - turned out to be a piece of plastic that would get sucked onto the fuel pump. As soon as the engine was stopped, the plastic floated away.

What did the spark plugs look like when you pulled them out?

When you drive it, does it feel like it has boost? It may have no compressor wheel. Or it may be a break (disconnection) in the IC plumbing. What other mods? Does it have an aftermarket ECU to confirm if it does actually boost? Don't the GTSts have a boost gauge in the instrument cluster? What does it say?

If you are in SA, you won't be able to register it in Victoria.

With the mixed tyres on the front, the car is unroadworthy. I would suggest 38 front, 36 rear tyre pressures.

What's "wineding" ? A shorthand for "wining & dining"? I think you will find it is actually "whining". Are you sure it's not diff noise? Have you checked oil levels in the gearbox and the diff?

You have obviously tried all the Nissan wreckers near you. Try Nissan Car Club (http://www.nissancarclub.org.au/) in Vic. Look on www.cams.com.au for other nissan car clubs nearer to you.

You need to remove the outer end from the wheel hub first. That entails effectively disassembling the front suspension to get enough movement of the hub to slip off the end of the shaft. Then use pry bars in the machine slot of the inner end to lever the shaft out of the diff. (no need to remove the diff cover plate). BTW - that's the RHS shaft. It only appears to be the LH shaft because you are looking at it from the front.

So, you have a stock ECU - is everything else on the engine stock?

How are you determining that it has no boost? If you are simply free-revving the engine, then it is highly improbable that you will generate any boost. If you are driving and it gets no boost, then it is highly probable that one or more of the intercooler pipe joins has come adrift.