blind_elk

If your mechanic can't gap a spark plug, find a new mechanic. It's not rocket science.Even from NGK, you should still check the gaps as you install them. Are you sure you need a 7 heat range?

I think your alternator is cactus. And the fact that it is overcharging the battery suggests that the battery will be dead soon, too.

This general question has been covered so many times it's not funny. The conversion is not simply a matter of throwing a RB26 engine and gearbox into a chassis. There is a whole bunch of electronics and hydraulics that all work together to make it work. The general consensus is that it is far cheaper - and much less anguish - to just go and buy the GT-R. Then again, you could start with a AWD RB25DE version, and drop the RB26 in. And add decent brakes. And decent suspension. And ...

I found - too late - that the unit to use is the GT-R if you are doing PnP. Advanced Engine Management (www.wolfems.com.au) have a "black box" solution, for a lot less than $500.

Has someone used teflon tape on the thread?

Those should have enough sidewall flex. A set of Bilsteins or Konis might set you back around $1G, KYBs are probably a bit less.For Bilsteins, talk to Quadrant Suspensions in Berwick. For Konis, talk to ToPerformance in Vermont South.

The standard radiator is fine. I had a single 16" (unshrouded) on my 32, and it proved less than useless. 1 lap around Winton, and the engine would be boiling (despite the thermo working because it was over its set temp). After I put the standard fan back, I could do 4 laps at QR with only a minor increase in engine temps.The problem with using thermos is getting the air to flow through the radiator. A factory fan, because it is always spinning and drawing air, achieves this. To get a set of thermos to work, you need to design the setup so that you direct all the air into the radiator, &/or create a low pressure region inside the engine bay so that air has to go through the radiator.

Your shocks are probably shot, and you may also be hitting the bump stops. Get some new shocks - Bilstein, KYB, Koni - which should give you back a bit of comfort. Also, what size tyres are you running?

Is this under heavy braking? Could just be the ABS doing its thing.

When I was looking at getting a car from Bris -> Melb, I also asked about Melb -> Bris - over $800. That was 2 years ago, for a 180B. I recall train don't carry cars as "freight", more like "luggage", ie you are taking your car on your holiday. Try Autotrans, in Laverton (division of Toll)

It could also mean " we told you, you just forgot" And as for "verbal contract", as Sam Goldwyn once quipped - "not worth the paper it is printed on"

Doesn't matter what we prefer. You're the one who has to use it.

No, you want the car to brake and turn. Best tyres on the front!

Then why do you need 300 - 350 rwkW?

The shaft should be held in by a spring circlip. (I think what you have is a dummy shaft to stop oil spilling out) Why not just swap the actual diff centre and pinion gear from the RB20 to the RB25?

Was the ROM tune done on a dyno, or just a "these numbers should do" setup?

You won't lose any "track" - that is controlled by the wheel design, specifically the offset. So I doubt you'll notice much difference at all in handling with 10mm less rubber width.

You will definitely need 1st gear. There is little chance the car will start moving in 2nd gear with that change in final gearing.It's all about leverage. Try levering a weight with a 4.1:1 mechanical advantage, then try it with only 3.5:1 .

Not my, or your, responsibility. It's the responsibility of the following car to be able to stop in time.That said, I sometimes have a quick check to plan what to do if the lights do change.

Yes, they are the same (37:9, which is actually 4.1111111111...:1)

"budget bitsa" is an oxymoron. Trying to mix'n'match parts is just asking for trouble. Why would it be cheaper - you would have to get a RB25DE, and a (whole) RB20 to get the crank. A RB25DET isn't really all that expensive. A bit of history. In the good old days - before supertaxis - the Nissan race GT-Rs ran 9:1 c/r and 1.8 bar boost, and were a very tractable race car. The Ford Sierras ran only 6:1 and 3 bar boost. They were an absolute pig of a car to drive - gutless off-boost and uncontrollable on-boost. So, low c/r is not the be-all-and-end-all of safe turbo driving.

To confuse matters more, you may not be missing anything. The connector might be for something in another model (different models using same loom section).

If you had searched, you would have discovered that the sender units are a bit suspect. If you are concerned about a total loss of oil pressure, there is also a "oh sh!t" warning light when you actually have no pressure.

The injectors should have permanent power when IGN = ON. The ECU switches to earth to open the injector. Pull the CAS, turn IGN -> ON, slowly rotate CAS shaft and listen for injector and coil activity. Check that you haven't bent the pins inside the connector plugs when you connected everything up.

Might I suggest that you aren't going to get a pink slip anywhere as long as the car is too low.