blind_elk

RB20 doesn't run ballast on the injectors. Unless the previous owner fitted GT-R injectors.

1. The ECU gets a signal from the CAS, and then calculates when to fire the spark. The calculation uses information from several other sensors to determine the firing point. The ECU expects the signal at a certain degrees BTDC. The correct degrees is when the idle timing is set correctly. So, NO, you can't set idle timing using consult. 2. There should be a black loop of wire on the connector to the ignitor module (power transistor unit), just before the loom disappears inside the valley cover (the one covering the coils).

Some timing lights show double the real timing when you use the "timing loop". The safest way to check timing is to insert a spark plug lead between coil #1 and its plug, and check the timing "old school".

Steering rack?

No such animal. It's either a 0w30, or it's something else.

Tint Professor did mine - can't complain about quality / service.

Are you sure the head is flat?

More air in the front tyres. Less air in the rears. Soften the front suspension. Stiffen the rear suspension. More front camber. Less rear camber Probably get some decent tyres.

There are lots of parts in there - which part are you talking about?

Any of the "name" suppliers - Tint A Car, Tint Professor. You can NOT tint the windscreen, all other windows are "fair game".

Or RH engine mount?

Measure the current draw through each fuse. That will at least narrow it down a bit.

14.5 - 15.5 kg-m

This question has been raised numerous times. SEARCH!

There might be, but I found that to be the easiest way.

Use the loop on the ignitor module (rh one of your pics). Be aware - some timing lights give a value twice the real value. The most accurate way is to insert a spark plug lead between coil #1 and sparkplug #1, then check timing the old-school way.

So, it cranks, but won't fire? Which ECU are you using? I believe that the RB and VG engines have a different firing order.

Were you already on suspension when you got the car impounded? Should be banned forever. But then, obviously a lack of a licence hasn't stopped him, so maybe he deserves some hard time instead.

If you have 235s on your rims now, then my impression is that they fit reasonably well. A 235/45R17 will be a good replacement.

It should be right beside the ECU temp sender - it's the one with a single pin connection.

You need to remove the LH guard.

The CAS will not have any influence on whether or not you mash valves. The CAS creates signals for the ECU to control injection and ignition sequencing. To install the CAS on a cam where the key has broken off, you should be able to see where the key broke away from, then visualise where to position the CAS so it would line up if the key were still in the cam. The only downside to incorrect installation of the CAS is that the engine probably won't start.

It has to comply with the Australian Standard - AS-1841

Nothing to do with each other. The thermostat does not control the workings of your heater. It is there simply to control the temperature of the coolant.Why don't you just get your radiator cleaned if that's the problem. A lot cheaper than a new radiator.

Whiteline has done a lot of research into the best sizings for upgraded bars. If the sell, for example, a 24mm bar, then it is highly likely that 24mm is the best size.