blind_elk

235 = nominal tread width (mm) 35 = sidewall height as a % of the tread width 17 = wheel diameter in inches. a 35 profile seems too small for a 17" rim, more commonly 45 profile.

In the seven years this forum has been alive, no-one has ever thought to ask that question

If you have spark, then the CAS should be working. Have you got compression? Did you remove the CAS at any time?

It can't be blocking the radiator, otherwise your engine would continually overheat. Pretty certain the car manufacturers would have thought about this. Air goes through the A/C condensor and then through the radiator. And it also has that dirty big mo-fo fan on the engine to draw air through both units.

At least you have oil pressure. It matters more that you have pressure rather than what the pressure is.

Read my previous post!

You don't need to disconnect anything else (caster rods). You might need to lift the lower control arm a bit, but you can do that with a crowbar or similar, or a jack.Just do the job with BOTH front wheels off the ground, and it will be a whole lot easier to put it back together.

http://wolfems.cart.net.au/details/635751.html

Wolf V500 should work well.

Cheapest fix - add some air to the front tyres - at least 2psi higher than the rears. That will reduce the tendency for understeer. Maybe add air to the rears as well, but always have higher pressure in the fronts. Then, fit a heavy duty rear sway bar. That will further reduce the understeer. Then heavyduty springs all round. IMO, you don't need "coilovers", just a simple upgraded shock - KYB, Tokico, Bilstein. "Coilovers" are generally fully height adjustable, and are usually installed so that the weight can be distributed evenly across the suspension. If not set up correctly your car will probably handle even worse than it does now.

Nissan standard appears to be 21mm.

Try www.pitstop.net.au (online bookshop)

I have 2 - VDO 0-30 and Pricol 0-15. You will need to get some tubing to connect them up. PM me for location details (W Subs)

The auto flywheel has virtually no thickness. The manual flywheel has to be 12mm or more. That is the extra length that you need. Try R31 bolts.

Have you determined which 4 pots are running? Have you done the standard diagnostics to determine what is actually not working?

Any number of things. Do you have fluid in the clutch master reservoir? You may have a broken pedal box. Or you've dropped the pivot pin that holds the pushrod onto the pedal.

It will break the front diff, because they are different ratios.

Glad I was some use 140 psi. Any telltale signs on the pistons to say they had a "meeting of the minds" with the valves? Only ex or in, or both?

Before you top up the brake fluid, check the brake pads. As they wear down, the fluid level will drop, but you will get it back when you fit new pads. P/S fluid - just top it up.

You might, because the engine needs to tilt back to drop the gearbox.But obviously if it has basically been running, then I doubt it was disconnected at the time of the "spirited drive".

49:12 - 49 teeth on the crown wheel and 12 teeth on the pinion gear -> ratio = 4.08:1 (Stagea diff) Don't know about the others.

You re-installed the CAS on the keyway?

So, the engine cranks over ok? Does it sound like it wants to start? The CAS is back in the right position? You may also have flooded the engine by now - pull the plugs and dry them off (or hold throttle full open while cranking (that allows lots of air to lean off the excess fuel).

Should find that boost is controlled by the wastegate actuator on the turbo. Extra boost - over about 10psi - will be controlled by a bleedoff arrangement.

You could try Performance Exhaust in Ringwood (there's one in Coburg, but not sure if it's the same mob).