blind_elk

You can set the thermo to come on as high as 90, even 95. The idea of a thermo is to only react to extreme coolant temperatures. Ordinarily, as the car moves along there is sufficient airflow through the radiator core to control the coolant temp. Even after idling for several minutes - like in stop-start traffic - when you get moving again, the air movement will cool the coolant back to the thermostatted temp.

I've done this conversion in a 32 GTS4. I used an aftermarket ECU (Wolf 3D 4+). The engine itself drops straight in, and bolts up to everything - gearbox, driveshafts, P/S pump, A/C compressor. The outright majority of Stagea engines are autos - manuals are almost rare as chicken teeth. So you will need a new flywheel, and a new spiggot bearing. The diffs in a Stagea are 4.08:1 . RB25DET doesn't need 4.375 final drive, so I ended up getting a Stagea rear diff and swapping the crown wheel and pinion over to the R32 diff housing. Also, I don't think the Stageas have any form of LSD rear, so another reason to swap the gears.

Get rid of the Blitz BOV and unblock the factory unit.You don't need new ECUs, tunes, or anything like that.

The alignment shouldn't have changed. My experience is that if you swap tyres L<->R, you end up mucking up the tread layers - the symptom is then similar to a bad front alignment (toe out). You may not have done it, but the previous owner may have. If it's borderline on the tyres, replace them sooner rather than later.

What is the factory spec for idle speed? The other thing is that the tacho may not be all that accurate - it could well be reading a bit high.

If the distributor is 180 out, then you need to drop the oil pump and position the dizzy drive correctly. If you rotate the crank 180, then the timing mark on the pulley will be in the wrong position. PM me if you want a hand - I have all the time in the world at the moment (unfortunately!).

Those sensors are only required to run the engine. They will have no effect on whether or not the engine cranks. "start has power" - are you talking about the big mo-fo cables? There should be a "standard" wire with an ordinary spade clip connected to the start solenoid (small cylinder on top of the starter)

The water should in the overflow bottle should be pulled back into the radiator as everything cools down. Is that happening?

No, but the fact that the pump isn't working won't cause the engine not to crank over. (I'm understanding your problem is that the starter motor is not turning the engine, not that the engine won't start and run)

You may have dislodged the wire that activates the starter solenoid. Best to check it in daylight.

If it's not working, take it back to Option1 and get them to fix it. As it stands, the car is too low. Everything in motoring is a compromise. Do you want the car to not understeer, or do you want it so you can't fit your hand between the tyre and the guard? You can't have both.

Check the motor itself. I think there is some sort of mechanism/adjustment that sets the auto-stop action.

there are three 6mm bolts - 2 at rear, 1 at front driver side.

The backlighting globe is ka-put.

Just remember that if you can hear the detonation, it's already too late - the damage has been done.

When you are standing in front of the engine bay, the timing marks move from left (driver side) to right. The first mark is 30BTDC, and the marks are 5 deg apart.

The CASs are essentially the same. (I've replaced my RB20DET CAS with a RB25DET CAS without any problems)

If it already had GT-R injectors,m then it should have already had the resistor pack installed. Anyway, are ALL the injectors pulsing? You can see fuel coming out when you remove the fuel hose from the regulator?

It used to be that you had to be a member of one of the MSCA clubs. I haven't been involved in the organisation side for a few years, so I'm not sure if that is still applicable. We're all here for the same reason - pretty sure they won't mind.

Also, NDSOC has its monthly meeting next Wednesday at Bells - you could come along and talk with Gerhard &/or Jeremy in person.

It should be in D, if it is in the CAMS Marque Sports Cars list. Talk to Gerhard ([email protected]) - he's the comp sec and MSCA rep for NDSOC. You could also talk to Jeremy ([email protected]) - he runs a 200SX (highly modded, and quick!) - that's him in your first post. Only rule I would look out for is to do with tyres - racing tyres (not road-use approved), then you will be in Race class.

First off, the air temperature sensor is dead (or unplugged)- indicated by the air temp being -46C. Don't understand how you can have vacuum but no load. Get it to Alex to sort out.

It will be much simpler and cheaper to take it back and get the correct model for the 34.

Nothing to do with oil (oil burns blue). The black is carbon particles as a result of the petrol not burning properly. The fuel/air mixture is rich, which is the protection that stops the engine pooping itself.

Take it out - it isn't necessary. The best TT is the one between your ears!